trigolf
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Posts posted by trigolf
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It's a shame the paintwork requires a lot of rectification. Strange that the vendor is asking that much, all things considerd.
So the quest continues! Good luck!
Gav
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My Kenlowe Unifan is a model A, 12" fitted in 'puller' mode between rad and block. I got it from a scrapyard decades ago minus any paperwork. The reason I asked about current draw is that, according to the Kenlowe installation instuctions, they stated 'fit a 25A fuse' ! As you say, different models/diameters can draw much higher currents. I've always used a 12A fuse and it's still fine. At least I now know what my model draws.
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I measured 11.2 amps initial 'start' current for about a sec. and 6.3 amps 'running'.
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Looks like your engine mount brackets are the wrong way round.
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Hmm..
Reckon that the paintwork repairs rqd. would be a strong haggling point.🤔
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Don't recognise this one, although fairly local. Never seen it at a Wessex Area meet. Looks really straight, original moulded carpets? ( a bit faded, but no prob). If the mileage is genuine, that's got to be pretty rare nowadays - my first car (Herald) had 62k on it back in 1979! I'd be tempted myself, if I had more garage space!
Gav
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22 hours ago, Pete Lewis said:
metal spraying is very hard and not that easy to regrind if you get one from dave at canley
it should be to the correct spec
at least he knows about the crap ones sold some while ago
then where do all the suppliers get their stock ???????
Exactly my point Pete!
As a very simple component, any machine shop can turn up new layshafts, but not necessarily to the correct hardness. I think it's highly likely that there is more than one source out there, but how do you tell if it's a good 'un?!🤔
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Afternoon all. I was having a shed tidy up yesterday and re-discovered all the internal parts of a dismantled single rail gbox that I put away yrs ago. It was bought for v little and came from a Midget 1500. I assume that it's identical to the Spitfire 1500 single rail box, apart from ratios maybe? Are the synchro rings the same size as Vit/GT6?
Anyway, the layshaft, which I'm sure is OEM, is in quite good nick. It's perfect at one end and only has fairly light needle roller damage to one smallish area at 'tother end.
Question : has anyone ever had any sucess refurbing a layshaft, by metal spraying the surface, then hardening etc. Or is it waste of money, not possible etc. Are currently available layshafts manufactured to the proper hardness now? Just curious 🤔
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That no. plate looks v small - possibly Italian - Turin??
If it is, it might be a pic from Michelottis studio?
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I seem to recall that Nigel Clark has fitted a prefabicated plastic 2 piece to gearbox cover to his TR6 recently? I think he featured it's installation in Practical Classics mag recently?
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Afternoon all. My switchgear plastic cowls have faded badly after 54 yrs, so I want to restore them. I tried T- cutting them, but no joy. So I'm guessing some sort of plastic compatible paint is required. Does anyone recommend any particular aerosol paint, i.e. plastic primer then top coat, or what?
Also, yonks ago, I bought some replacement labels for same, but can't remember if they are water-slide transfers of self-adhesive?
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16 hours ago, Colin Lindsay said:
The other option is to either get a long thin arm with a long thin hand with long thin fingers - or anything that resembles same - up behind the glovebox to the top and press the latch downwards from behind; hopefully it will move downwards enough to open. A long thin screwdriver or homemade metal lever manoeuvered up behind may be able to reach the catch where it sits between the metal sides and depress it. (Or bend the metal bracket upwards)
OR: open the lock with a screwdriver to break the tumblers, then replace the lock. You may be able to get a replacement lock with the same key.
I wouldn't advise trying to bend the catch 28 up. It's quite strong and it's screwed to the rear face of the dash. You would almost certainly crack the dashboard. Besides, it's all inside the glovebox ' box' - there's no access to it, even with a double jointed hand or similar! As Johny points out, the lock spring ' finger' is trapped behind the catch.
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Following on from above, to clarify, my lock wasn't siezed, but wouldn't clear the fixed bracket when the button was pushed in, so the lid wouldn't open.
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Yes!
It happened to me,refitting a freshly restored dash and glovebox lid. I ended up using a hacksaw blade in a ' padsaw' and very carefully sawed through the small metal bracket that the glovebox lock latches on, via the gap between the top edge of lid and glovebox lid aperture in the dash. It means you'll wreck the small metal bracket ( a bit of bent metal), but if you're really stuck, as I was...
A piece of cornflake packet slid into the gap will help protect the painted edge of the lid.
I found a replacement bracket with some other parts of glovebox fittings on ebay.
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Re: the boot carpet, I made my own after seeing the price of new. I used some ribbed rubber mat ( it's a convertible), scrounged from work and some recycled felt from a packing crate.
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Interesting that Hardys have replaced the short bolts with longer ones. I also have the CDD CV conversion and they were supplied with short bolts and Nord-lock washers. I assumed they are deliberately short to prevent ' bottoming out' in the lobro joint part?
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Morning all. I'm about to carry out a tappet check/adjustment. I have an alloy rocker,fitted for several years, with a trad cork gasket 'glued' to it as the thin gaskets did'nt seem available at the time of fitting. I now have a Club neoprene gasket ready to fit. Is it a good idea to glue it to the cover ( as it's supposedly re-useable) or fit it dry?
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I see Fitchetts have a few brand new ones,but a bit pricey for me, I'm afraid.☹️
As Pete says not a safety feature and only fitted on Passenger seat runner.
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Yes, I'd pondered the Terry clip idea too, although not exactly the same. Although it's probably classed as a "slow moving part", I wonder if any trader would be interested in remanufacturing it?
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I've concluded that these are one of the first things to get broken, particularly with convertibles, as people clamber into the back. I only had one fitted on the passenger seat and it was broken years ago. I don't think they're available new?
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You've stimulated a lively debate with filter boxes now Ian! 🤔
Gav
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Hi Chris. I recently had the same prob on my Vit washer pump ( i.e. wipers work, but pump does'nt).
I checked all the obvious - jets, pipes,non return valve etc and concluded it was the pump innards. I decided to convert to an electric pump, but wanted to keep the original wiper switch. So I have converted the pump part of the switch to take a momentary ( non latching) push button. It's a starter switch that I got from Car Builder Solutions. I cut open the plastic end of the pump and discarded it. A suitable sized penny washer was then Araldited in its place, with the starter button mounted through it ( it looks exactly like Paul H 's second pic of s/h Vit dashboard rear view. The 'bellows' inside the pump look like a thick rubber thimble, if it was like mine. I decided to leave the rubber thimble in place, as it helps return the push button to it's off state. A standard ' generic' 12v washer pump is wired to the switch and plumbed into the pipework. It all works well and looks original on the dash.
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1 hour ago, Wagger said:
The sliding spline should be at the front (gearbox) end. Is this the case with the picture shown?
Most older car manuals state that a sliding joint should be fitted at GB end. I did try fitting the prop that way,but it made no difference to vibration and prevents you from being able to grease the slider easily, so I refitted it at diff end. All Truimph manuals state it should be fitted at diff end ( probably just for greasing)🤔
Vit Mk2 Sec handbrake cable replacement
in Braking System
Posted
Evening all. Probably a daft question, but, has anybody ever managed to replace the secondary cable, without removing the relay lever and guide etc first? If so, I think the propshaft rear flange would require unbolting to gain more working space, which does'nt seem to be mentioned in the manual?
Gav