trigolf
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Posts posted by trigolf
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That looks like a pretty common Lucas 17ACR alternator that has either been reconditioned and or reboxed as Wood. It'll power a radio + lights etc fine. I swapped my dynamo for a Lucas ACR17 on my Vit. You'll either need an alternator mounting bracket from a Spit 4+ tensioner or you can adapt the dynamo bracket. As Wagger says you might have to swap the pulley.
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Hi Steve, I happened to be in the garage today and had another look at the horn mounting on my Vit. I was incorrect in thinking that the horns bolt direct to the bracket on the bonnet frame. See pic. It might help.
Gav
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I've got those on my Vit bonnet frame. IIRC the horns are bolted to them.
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As Peter T says even when all parts are def. correct spec, assembling the wishbone to the v link is very tight, not helped by the dirt shields tilting as they are 'persuaded' onto the v link. Another pair of hands helps, but if all else fails - how about putting a nylon tyrap through both wishbone legs to hold the shields in place until you at least manage to get them started and wedged in a bit. Then cut the tyraps off before tapping into place to line the bolt holes up? Just an idea...
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Don't forget that the trunnion bolt is torqued up to 55-60lbs ft, so the rubber seals will compress a bit over time. I would be wary of grinding any metal off.
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Re: the Spitfire camber angle, you are probably comparing the Herald (swing axle )suspension, where the spring was rigidly bolted atop the diff, compared to the later Spitfire IV or 1500 model which had a 'swing spring' ,where basically the spring pivoted slightly via a central pivot point box atop the diff. This was BL's attempt to reduce excessive camber angles and improve roadholding. As a simple device it works well. You can swap a swing spring into a Spit 1,2,or 3 if desired. Thats why most later Spits show a bit of negative camber at the rear wheels -top of wheel leans in slightly
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9 hours ago, Puglet1 said:
I have just found a previous post with a similar issue which was due to the parts being oversized
Sounds like the curse of poor quality pattern parts again!😟. I've still got genuine Leyland plastic bushes, rubber seals and metal water shields and even with those it's all a tight fit, hence why I put the v link upside down in the vice and tap the wishbone onto it. If you're not too bothered about originality you can fit hard red poly bushes instead and do away with the 3 part bush arrangement.
Gav
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Pete, re the wishbone not fitting the v link. I seem to recall I had the same prob years ago. With the trunnion bushes and dirt shields in place , it's always a tight fit to slip the v link in. Yet more grease on the dirt shield faces helps, together with some gentle persusion with a plastic faced hammer. Once again, a suitable sized tapered drift or screwdriver will help get the holes to line up. If it still won't fit, you could try placing a small scissor jack, a Herald one is ideal, between the wishbone arms and VERY carefully 'easing' the gap v slightly.
Gav
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I always attach the wishbone to the v link first, before trying to lift v link up to meet the spring eye. You should have the spring lifted up until its roughly parallel with the ground. As the spring flattens out the eye describes an arc. The donut will try and twist the v link. The UJ flange does not slide on the spline of the driveshaft ( unless you have a CV conversion). You then have to wrestle the v link legs over the spring eye ( a little rubber grease on the bush helps) and when the bolt hole is lined up push the spring eye bolt in. I use a tapered drift to initially connect the v link to the spring eye. Then push/tap bolt in from opposite end and the drift falls out. It's a pig of a job as the donut has a life of it's own. 4 hands help too.🙂
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I'd like to keep the original type 3 rail box (uprated+J type) for as long as practical. But we all know that NOS parts are largely made of unobtanium nowadays and most repro stuff is made of chocolate. Some people are already converting to T9 boxes, but I understand that core T9 units are now in short supply due demand and presumably the same problem will arise with NOS parts? I guess all Gbox rebuilders are hoarding their remaining spares. Wouldn't it be nice for someone to stumble across a huge stash of NOS parts in some long forgotten warehouse somewhere? 🤔🙂
Gav
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52 minutes ago, rlubikey said:
I think I'm right in saying that all the after-market alloy rocker cover caps have a completely different bayonet fitting to the original steel ones.
Cheers, Richard
Very good point Richard. Never thought of that! You're probably correct.
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Rimmers supply a non-original style vented cap,as fitted to the ali rocker covers.
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Hmmm, they are all sounding like Triggers broom nowadays!
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Recently retired, I finally got down to collating all my bills and paperwork for my Vit.
As the car was a one previous owner model, I looked through the PO's bill out of curiosity. I was surprised to see that it had a recon gearbox after only 8 years (1978).
I then bought it when it was eleven yrs old and it had the gb+od recon'd in 1991 and then again in 2013! The gbox is getting very whiny again, although still shifts fine. So, I suppose the car will be having a 4th gbox rebuild soon.😟 The car's total mileage is 168,000 so far. Engine was rebuilt. at 133,000. Looking at how long modern car gbox's typically last, it makes you wonder!
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It's immaculate Gary. Unfortunately, it's that gopping poo brown colour, which might affect the price..🤔
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👍Good luck with interior refit!
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Hmmm...
I had a diff that wouldnt fit over the front mounting stud on one side. After cussing and puffing, took it and realised the courier had drop tested it and bent the front mounting plate quite a way from perfectly straight.
Just another thought are you chassis studs perfectly straight? Then can get mullered from PO's
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I got my chassis shot blasted, repair sections welded in, then dip galvanized inside and out. Then etch primed and two pack painted. Then waxoiled. It'll never fail an MOT on rust!🙂
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Hi Ian
Thanks for the info. That's put my mind at rest. Do you think it's a good colour match? Would'nt want to spoil all my hard work!
At the risk of highjacking my own thread, is the clutch sorted now?
Gav
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Thanks Pete.
I'm making a white metal kit of a Vitesse and have used standard aerosol Halfords primer paint. I now want to top coat it the correct Triumph White 19. I don't want to risk cellulose attacking the acrylic primer...🤔
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Has anyone bought touch up aerosol paint from the club shop recently?
I'd like to know if it's cellulose or an acrylic type please.
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Has anyone bought touch up aerosol paint from the club shop recently?
I'd like to know if it's cellulose or an acrylic type please.
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I fitted a set years ago. They were probably in use for at least 15yrs. I replaced them during lockdown as, although they still 'performed' ,you can't see the rubber hose condition under the stainless braiding. The decision was more about the visual state of the ferrules/unions which were looking rather corroded where the cadmium plating had deteriorated. When I cut one open it appeared to be a nylon ( PTFE?) narrow bore inner tube, then a thin rubber tube, clad in baiding.
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1 hour ago, Pete Lewis said:
taking the prop to be balanced wont check the state of the wonky flanges on the diff and gearbox !!!!
always run a file over the faces or if you can use a DTI in the face and the register diameter they are critical
pete
I agree Pete. Did all that first. No faults found with flanges.
Kenlowe Unifan Current draw
in Electrical System
Posted
Evening all,
Does anyone happen to know what the current draw on a) start up and b) running condition for a Kenlowe Unifan is please? I can't measure same on my mulitmeter as it only has a max 10A range and I suspect the it'll be higher than that!🤔