trigolf
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Posts posted by trigolf
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Straightsix,
Assuming you were not part way through refitting the brake linings in your pic, I see that the top red pull off spring is fitted the opposite way round to the pic in the WSM. Also the bottom pull off spring is not located properly in the outer holes
As to stiff rotation, I would support the driveshaft under the v link as in your pic then undo the inner lobro joint to diff flange and ease flange faces apart and see if drag is still there. If it is ( with drum off) then the bearings are suspect or end float incorrect (too tight). Spec is 0.5 to 2.5 thou.
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Well, it might have as much charisma as a toaster, but at least it's not another hugely bloated chelsea tractor...🤔
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I have two s/h, but serviceable, Lucas sealed beam lights removed from a Herald. Free to a good home. I'm in Christchurch( Dorset).
Gav
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Many years ago we used to use Letraset for labels, but I always found that that you'd get individual letters wonky - even with a reference line to follow. Very annoying!
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Hi Ian, do you know anyone with a Dymo Label printer? I'm not talking about the original 60's embossed label machine. We had one at work for labelling small electronic projects. The label cartridges come in different widths and colours ( white on black, white on clear etc). The font is changeable as is character size. If you're really stuck, I might be able to borrow it.
Gav
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It would be interesting to know if there have been any failures of CDD's Rotoflex replacement CV shafts and how said driveshaft failed (snapping,shearing or other failure)?
Out of curiosity, a while ago, I Googled the part number on the outer CV joint on my Vit MK 2 CDD CV shafts. It appears to be the same as a mk 3 Escort (FWD). The reported failures mentioned all seem to be to be with non- roto shafts, apart from the one Stag failure mentioned,which is non roto of course.
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6 hours ago, Ian Foster said:
I have also added a grease nipple into the vertical link, which gets a few pumps from time to time.
Ahh, now you'll start a debate about whether the grease get's anywhere usefull Ian!!🤔🙂
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Have you tried slackening the nut on the long bolt (that goes through both outer bushes on the wishbone) and making sure that the bolt will actually turn in the bushes? They can sieze in the bush which can cause creaking. I slacken the bolt once in a while and check it turns, before re-torqueing.
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I think at that price, I'll stick with rubber hoses....🤔
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3 hours ago, Colin Lindsay said:
Just been rewatching some of the episodes and am being really anoraky; the one where they make a set of shelves from a Morris Minor dashboard and the girl claims "it'll be the first set of shelves that has covered 140,000 miles..." It's really 14,000 miles as they were only clocked to 5 digits and she's adding the tenths as miles.
Am I right they also fitted the Herald sidelamp units upside down, claiming that they were originally incorrectly fitted?
Colin, I think you are correct! 🙂
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I totally agree! Along with the manicured nails and eyebrows,don't forget all the tatoos, that are not cheap nowadays...
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My heater worked ok in terms of heat output, when needed recently, but the demister was useless, just when I really wanted it in pouring rain! Checking it later, I found several very small splits in the demister plastic pipes. Easily fixed with some insulation tape.
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I'm sure I read somewhere recently that the Thames barrier will need modifying/improving to cope with global warming flood levels...😕
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Rustbuster Epoxy Mastic EM121 paint gets very good reviews with Practical Classics mag. On that basis I've bought some - not had time to apply yet.
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13 hours ago, chrishawley said:
Possibly worth trying is this....:
The cover (held by the four Phillips screws) is in principle a precise machine fit to the body of the carburettor. But I've found on at least some Strombergs just a gnats of variance in the fit such that exactly how one tightens the four screws is the difference between binding and no binding. Thus when refitting the cover my approach is to tighten the screws progressively a little at a time while continually feeling the movement of the air valve and, if need be, 'settling' the cover with bit of wiggling. And then, having found the sweet spot not to tighten the screws any more than is needed for attachement.
That is exactly the method I use, which works. I had also previously cleaned the piston, but it still jammed. It's a bit labourious tightening each screw a micron at a time, but heh ho. I often wondered if the top cover flange has been over-tightend in the past by PO and the flange is slightly distorted?
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Puglet I don't mean to throw a spanner in the works. It's your choice at the end of the day!
If you decide to go for bracket option, I seem to recall not only loosening the top chassis mount bolts (x)2 in the boot, but also the boot outrigger bolts( x 4). I then used a standard Herald scissor jack placed on top of the leaf spring to gently ease the floor up enough to wriggle the brackets in ( a bit Heath Robinson, but it worked,refer to StraightSixs pic in Shocked and Surprised). Of course other peeps might have a different method!
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Back before I decided to convert to tele shockers(30+yrs) ,I initially replaced the original lever arm shocks, which were knackered, with a reconditioned pair from a local motor factors. Obviously they were'nt 'reconditioned' to a good standard as they started leaking from the arm seals within a year. So I was'nt very impressed!
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14 hours ago, Straightsix said:
Thanks Paul, I hadn’t realised what a can of worms this suspension modification entailed.
So just to clarify the original top suspension mount can be used, while leaving the extension brackets still in situ?
To confirm, yes you can leave the brackets in situ AND still use the original chassis top mount. The brackets will probably be a pig to remove now anyway, as they are almost an interference fit between floor and chassis mount.
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1 hour ago, Pete Lewis said:
adjustable shocks can be an expensive headache none of us have the ability to set a correct damper rate
its all a bit trial and error if its just a road car then std fixed setting are made to a specification to suit the bump and rebound of the car weight etc. if anyone has a full chassis dynamometer then you can set up accurately the damping
adjustables are very expensive and may not ever give you the ride you expect
from experience you can be always on the turn it up turn it down mode
do your homework before you empty the wallet
Pete
True. Have to say the Koni's I fitted have never been adjusted from factory setting ( you need to remove them to adjust) and I'm happy with the ride.
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The front edge of the roof looks different too - the lip seems to be missing...
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Going slightly off topic, am I right in thinking that a young Stirling Moss used to have a ' souped up' Standard 8, with twin carbs and wire wheels etc?
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I have done this mod on my Mk2 Vit, as I converted to cv shafts recently.
I previously had the brackets fitted and the specific shorter Gaz shocks, sold by the club. I found the Gaz shocks gave too firm a ride even on min setting. I have removed the Gaz shocks but left the brackets in situ. I then refitted a pair of low mileage Koni shocks (specced for Vit mk 1) and attached to top chassis point, as per Nigel's picture. I find the ride just right and compliant with Koni's.
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To confirm, all Mk 2 Vits were fitted from new with archaic lever arm shocks at the rear, only to clear the rotoflex donuts. Extra lower brackets were welded to the chassis to mount them and incorporate a lower bump stop ( which becomes redundant if converting to CV shafts). The original Vit Mk 1 upper shock mounts were left on the chassis. The telescopic mounting bracket kit is only required if you convert to tele shocks, but retain the donuts. If you convert to CV shafts you can use the original chassis top shock mounts, with standard length Vit Mk1 shocks. You don't need the extra brackets.
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Any pointers on this TR4 engine (video)
in Engine
Posted
I've had a Newtronic ' Pihrana' optical igntion system fitted to my Vit for 15+ yrs now and it's always been 100% reliable. So I wouldn't condemn it yet until further checks have been carried out on the ignition system.