trigolf
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Posts posted by trigolf
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I made my bar from Unistrut 'u' section. Plenty strong enough!
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I made my bar from Unistrut 'u' section. Plenty strong enough!
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There looks like enough bolt shank to get a Stilson wrench on, if you don't have stud extractor.
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I've used Plus Gas pentrating fluid for years. Get's my vote. Halfords used to sell it.
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21 minutes ago, Morgana said:
I'm going to have to do this at some point and have been wondering how - rust is along the same seam...
I was hoping that the whole roof section would somehow lift off from studying the parts diagrams, making the seam easier to access. I'll see what you do with it.
Correct, the whole roof will unbolt as one. IIRC, 1x bolt behind each sunvisor bracket, 1 xbolt at bottom of each rear pillar in boot and I think, 1 x rivet at bottom of each side pillar behind the headlining trim. If I've got that wrong, I'm sure one of the sages will correct me!
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11 hours ago, PeteH said:
While I would concur, that Seat Belts would be beneficial, (I even have one for my dog!, in the 13/60). One has to extremely careful HOW they are fitted, to vehicles that where never designed with belt use in mind. Just screwing them to the floor, as was the case with very early Herald`s, would be providing a false security In my View. Also, providing suitable mounts for ISO child seat fixings would be extremely problematic?.
I would suggest that even getting a Garage, to agree to actually fit belts, might raise H&SE/liability concerns they may not wish to become involved with in todays "litigate at the drop of a hat society"?.
Pete
Pete, I agree that there may well be problems trying to retro-fit belts to classics. Of course if you're not sure of you're own abilities, there is at least one seat belt company ( name escapes me at mo)who will fit belts for you, including additional strengthening.
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8 hours ago, thescrapman said:
There was one episode where they fixed a car with crap brakes, and kept going on how she would like to take her kids out in it, but couldn’t because it had no brakes.
So it was OK to drive a car with useless brakes, as long as it didn’t have her kids in it.
That really annoyed me.
you fix the brakes because it’s bloody dangerous!
Agreed! I did also notice that said car (a Ford Pop) was'nt fitted with any seat belts either. If it was me, I think I would be willing to sacrifice originality for enhanced safety these days. .
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Yep, I have watched the series. 10 or 12 episodes, I think. It's hosted by journalist Charlotte Vowden, who writes regularly in Practical Classics. She owns and drives an MGA and is helped to maintain it by her father. I was pleased to see a Herald getting some TLC for a change, rather than the more predictable makes...
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It might be worth temp removing the door aperture rubber seal first? Then see if the problem remains. I had the same problem with a Herald years ago that I'd replaced the rubber seal with a bubble section, which was way too thick as I later discovered. That door seal does not look like the original pattern to me.
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Took my Vit cv to an indicated 110 mph once many, many years ago, on a very quiet straight stretch of A303 dual carriageway. The wind noise and vibration were horrendous! I shouted across to my mate, who was hitching a lift and had his head down rolling a fag,remarking on our velocity, whereby he dropped his fag in fright!
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Recently several people have been querying the type of Strombergs fitted to their car, and whether they are correct for the car.
I found my Haynes Stromberg manual recently which lists all the variants by carb model number/car model. The carb no is either on a small brass/ali tag secured through one of the dashpot cover screws and is also generally stamped into the fixing flange.
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Good, thanks for confirming Colin.
Johny, the panel is held in by the trim clips as in 68 Vit's pic. As stated there are two different sizes of the same style clip. The smaller one fits in the bodywork holes nicely.
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The securing bracket is fixed through the two holes in the spring clamp plate that are nearest the boot lip. It's also not a right angle, so will only fit one way and still reach the board. I think I've answered my own question, but would be good to be certain!
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No, there definitely is one fitted as standard. Otherwise there is no partition btween the boot and hoodwell. My car was a very original one owner car when I bought it, and the original panel was not home made. Rimmers list them.
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Afternoon all. 30 years ago I removed the millboard boot to hoodwell divider for a diff change. Fast forward to now and I finally got around to refitting it. Unfortunately, after a few house moves, I've lost it!
So I have made a new one.
Question - does the retaining strip fit to the outside of the panel,as per pic attached. Or does the strip fit on the inside of the panel?
🤔
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Just a thought...
Had a similar fault symptoms years ago on my Vit. Turned out to be the front carb throttle spindle locking clamp was slipping with force of the return spring at higher throttle openings and not opening the butterfly fully.
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If it was me, I would only buy from Burlen Carbs, in Salisbury UK.
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Johny, what I meant was the slightly 'undersize' rack tube (because of previous corrosion), which is then sandblasted during reconditioning. The end result was the rack would move from side to side, slightly as the load was put on and the MOT man didn't like it. I can't be the only person who fell foul of this !?
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21 minutes ago, Iain T said:
Snap!
This getting uncanny Iain!!
Personally, the reason I moved away from the rubber mounts years ago, was because the MOT man kept saying there was too much rack movement. Of course it didn't help that I had 165 tyres which upped the stationary steering loads. I also noted that when both my father and me bought recon racks, for his Herald and my Vit, that the rack tube, despite being all shiny and fresh painted, had corroded slightly under the area where the bushes clamped. I suspect that this didn't help the bushes to clamp on a worn tube. Move on a few years and we all know about rubbish repro rubber parts. When I got my Vit there were different types of rack clamps fitted and one had had a diy fix using an exhaust clamp u bolt loosely fitted. The other side had a bent thread end. Before I buy, I would want to be certain that good quality poly bushes will grip tightly and thus pass the MOT!
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Paddocks sell the nylon plug. I bought one earlier this year.
I've been considering a move back from alloy mounts to original style with poly bushes, due to increased road shocks through the steering and wanting a smoother ride as I get older. I see that BMH are now reproducing the original clamps from new tooling, for a resonable cost. 🤔
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I use the thick washer, as per Buckeye Triumph website states.
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I use the thick washer, as per Buckeye Triumph website states.
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I'm sure I saw a glimpse of 1966 on the Le Mans 24hr programme that was filmed.
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As you have'nt got a pressure gauge, why not try adjusting the Malpassi regulator. If you take the domed cap nut off, mark the locknut posn. before loosening, then adjust. IIRC turning it clockwise reduced fuel pressure and vice versa. I confirmed my Malpassi pressure (2.3psi) with a cheap Chinese gauge from t'internet. ( £10.00). At least then you could prove if it's an excess pressure prob?
“Sluggish” speedo
in General
Posted
Hmm..
It's most likely that the grease/lubricant in the innards has dried up with age. Most people send speedo's to specialists for repair/overhaul,as they are mechanically delicate.