trigolf
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Posts posted by trigolf
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I seem to recall that Nigel Clark has fitted a prefabicated plastic 2 piece to gearbox cover to his TR6 recently? I think he featured it's installation in Practical Classics mag recently?
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Afternoon all. My switchgear plastic cowls have faded badly after 54 yrs, so I want to restore them. I tried T- cutting them, but no joy. So I'm guessing some sort of plastic compatible paint is required. Does anyone recommend any particular aerosol paint, i.e. plastic primer then top coat, or what?
Also, yonks ago, I bought some replacement labels for same, but can't remember if they are water-slide transfers of self-adhesive?
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16 hours ago, Colin Lindsay said:
The other option is to either get a long thin arm with a long thin hand with long thin fingers - or anything that resembles same - up behind the glovebox to the top and press the latch downwards from behind; hopefully it will move downwards enough to open. A long thin screwdriver or homemade metal lever manoeuvered up behind may be able to reach the catch where it sits between the metal sides and depress it. (Or bend the metal bracket upwards)
OR: open the lock with a screwdriver to break the tumblers, then replace the lock. You may be able to get a replacement lock with the same key.
I wouldn't advise trying to bend the catch 28 up. It's quite strong and it's screwed to the rear face of the dash. You would almost certainly crack the dashboard. Besides, it's all inside the glovebox ' box' - there's no access to it, even with a double jointed hand or similar! As Johny points out, the lock spring ' finger' is trapped behind the catch.
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Following on from above, to clarify, my lock wasn't siezed, but wouldn't clear the fixed bracket when the button was pushed in, so the lid wouldn't open.
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Yes!
It happened to me,refitting a freshly restored dash and glovebox lid. I ended up using a hacksaw blade in a ' padsaw' and very carefully sawed through the small metal bracket that the glovebox lock latches on, via the gap between the top edge of lid and glovebox lid aperture in the dash. It means you'll wreck the small metal bracket ( a bit of bent metal), but if you're really stuck, as I was...
A piece of cornflake packet slid into the gap will help protect the painted edge of the lid.
I found a replacement bracket with some other parts of glovebox fittings on ebay.
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Re: the boot carpet, I made my own after seeing the price of new. I used some ribbed rubber mat ( it's a convertible), scrounged from work and some recycled felt from a packing crate.
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Interesting that Hardys have replaced the short bolts with longer ones. I also have the CDD CV conversion and they were supplied with short bolts and Nord-lock washers. I assumed they are deliberately short to prevent ' bottoming out' in the lobro joint part?
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Morning all. I'm about to carry out a tappet check/adjustment. I have an alloy rocker,fitted for several years, with a trad cork gasket 'glued' to it as the thin gaskets did'nt seem available at the time of fitting. I now have a Club neoprene gasket ready to fit. Is it a good idea to glue it to the cover ( as it's supposedly re-useable) or fit it dry?
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I see Fitchetts have a few brand new ones,but a bit pricey for me, I'm afraid.☹️
As Pete says not a safety feature and only fitted on Passenger seat runner.
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Yes, I'd pondered the Terry clip idea too, although not exactly the same. Although it's probably classed as a "slow moving part", I wonder if any trader would be interested in remanufacturing it?
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I've concluded that these are one of the first things to get broken, particularly with convertibles, as people clamber into the back. I only had one fitted on the passenger seat and it was broken years ago. I don't think they're available new?
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You've stimulated a lively debate with filter boxes now Ian! 🤔
Gav
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Hi Chris. I recently had the same prob on my Vit washer pump ( i.e. wipers work, but pump does'nt).
I checked all the obvious - jets, pipes,non return valve etc and concluded it was the pump innards. I decided to convert to an electric pump, but wanted to keep the original wiper switch. So I have converted the pump part of the switch to take a momentary ( non latching) push button. It's a starter switch that I got from Car Builder Solutions. I cut open the plastic end of the pump and discarded it. A suitable sized penny washer was then Araldited in its place, with the starter button mounted through it ( it looks exactly like Paul H 's second pic of s/h Vit dashboard rear view. The 'bellows' inside the pump look like a thick rubber thimble, if it was like mine. I decided to leave the rubber thimble in place, as it helps return the push button to it's off state. A standard ' generic' 12v washer pump is wired to the switch and plumbed into the pipework. It all works well and looks original on the dash.
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1 hour ago, Wagger said:
The sliding spline should be at the front (gearbox) end. Is this the case with the picture shown?
Most older car manuals state that a sliding joint should be fitted at GB end. I did try fitting the prop that way,but it made no difference to vibration and prevents you from being able to grease the slider easily, so I refitted it at diff end. All Truimph manuals state it should be fitted at diff end ( probably just for greasing)🤔
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That looks like a big welding project!
With respect, have you considered trying to find another chassis in better condition?
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I too had pondered from time to time about changed driveline angles causing vibration. It's been a very long time since I fitted the car with a J type o/d and I can't honestly remember whether the vibration only became noticeable after the conversion. Trouble is, back then, I just wanted to use the car all the time! What would be interesting is if we could compare a standard D type installation rear mounting height, compared to the J type fit?🤔
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1 hour ago, Iain T said:
Interesting and effective however I don't fancy doing it at home with the car just on jacks!
Hence why I took the car to Vibration Free, Iain!
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The Churchill 3 part tool is very rare. I've never even seen one at an autojumble. I think you'll be very lucky to even find a Triumph 'garage' with one. There used to be a guy - Richard Briscoe? who manufactured the spacers and shims, who had the actual tool and offered a service setting endfloat correctly but not sure if he still does.
There is an alternative Diy method explained on Canley Classics website. Check out the their Technical Archive - Rear End Noises.
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I've just carried out the exact same mod on my Vit wiper switch. Keeps it looking original🙂
Gav
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Hi Ian,
Leccy fan only. It's a very tight squeeze with a Kenlowe, which still works fine. Even changing the fan belt is chalIenging! I would wary about replacing it with something newer, without seeing it fitted to a Vit. How many times have you been told ' oh yes it will fit', when clearly it won't! I still don't think Revotec have produced a proper kit ( with mounts) to fit a Vit yet. I've always had a manual o'ride switch, which has proved useful.
Gav
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Ian, I'm revisiting the elec fan installation that I did 35 yrs ago. I followed the Kenlowe instructions at the time. They didn't include a relay in the kit, which I thought was a bit strange at the time. Anyway......time went on and I got engrossed in all the other jobs that needed doing, so sort of forgot about it! I'm completely rewiring the fit to include a relay and uprated wiring. 🙂
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Found it, thanks Johny.
Gav
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Hi Ian,
No. Label has long gone. I've tried 'tinternet, but can't find a spec.
1960 'Vitesse Coupe'
in General
Posted
That no. plate looks v small - possibly Italian - Turin??
If it is, it might be a pic from Michelottis studio?