trigolf

Ok guys, thanks for the replies. I think I'll get one. It's got to be better than what I've got at the moment.

I seem to recall reading somewhere,years ago, that fitting a lowering block to a rotoflex car was not recommended, as it put an extra strain on the doughnuts ?

Hi all, I see that a plastic gearbox cover is now available for the Vitesse/Herald. A few years ago I spent a lot of time trying to get a fibreglass version to fit properly and soundproof it. Even after all that it wasn't brilliant. Is the fit of the plastic version that much better ? I'm guessing that the plastic version helps 'damp' the row from the gearbox better too, even before you fit extra soundprooofing etc. Question - is the plastic version worth the money, when compared with the fibreglass one ?

Thanks to everyone for the various suggestions, but Bivvyman goes to the top of the class ! There seems to be a growing demand for these, as old stock disappears. Surely someone could put them into production - after all they're not exactly complicated/costly to replicate !

Paul, Thanks for the link, but that's the shim. What I'm looking for is any of the 5 different sizes of spacer that are used in conjunction with the 3 thou' shim to achieve the correct end float. Mike, I've checked Mick Dolphins parts lists and he does'nt list them anymore. Regards Gav

Anyone know where I can get any sizes of the Rotoflex bearing spacers from ? Canleys and Rimmers don't list them as available now. Is this something the Club shop could look into getting re-manufactured ?

I had my bumpers refurbed many years ago by a local aluminum anodising company. They stripped the original anodising off for me, first, and then told me to go to a metal polisher to polish out all the scratches and then bring them back. Having had them polished, to what I thought was an acceptable finish, I returned them to the anodisers who chucked them in the tank at the end of long production anodising job. That made the cost cheap. Unfortunately the metal polisher had not done a thorough enough job, so the final finish was not brilliant. If you only polish them, and don't anodise too, they will eventually oxidize and you will have to polish them regularly.Thorough preparation is the key to a nice job.

I had a similar problem and found that at wider throttle settings - anything above idle - the throttle bar clamp nut was slightly loose and not turning the throttle butterfly.

Gents, Thanks very much for all your advice/help. Obviously good used ones are made from unobtanium! I think I'll have a go at modding the existing pump and fit a switch inside - as suggested - and convert to an electric pump.

Hi, I'm not sure which section to post this in,so have posted it here. My Vitesse is now due an MOT and whilst checking all the obvious things prior, I found that the washers weren't working. I have checked the whole system over as follows: 1. Checked that non return valve in washer bottle pick up pipe not seized. 2. Cleaned out all pipework and washer jets - they we're a bit gungy 3. Disconnected pump and blown through the pipework with a foot pump - it's clear all the way to the jets 4. Dismantled pump - removed wiper switch part and checked pump diaphragm - it all looks intact - no holes or splits. After all the above checks - it still refuses to work ,so am a bit baffled. Has anyone got any suggestions what might be faulty ? I know people fit electric pumps as a replacement, but that normally requires the fitting of a different switch, more holes in the dash etc - and I would prefer to keep the original system if possible. I have a vague memory of reading of a club member who managed to retain the original switch and modify it to convert to an electric pump/ wiper operation. Does anyone remember when it was featured in the Courier ? - which year would narrow it down a bit. Gavin

Yes, I recall it mounts on the inside of the bulkhead above the regulator ? It's only the overdrive Relay ( D type) that mounts next to battery on the engine side of bulkhead

If I recall correctly, it mounts to the bulkhead on the l/h side above the voltage regulator for the dynamo

Hi Laurie, Altho' you want to use ramps,rather than axle stands like me, have a look at my method posted previously further back in this section.BTW we had both posted in the wrong section technically - should be rear axle - not gearboxes !

I have a Mk2 Vitesse ( Rotoflex) and previously have removed/replaced the diff using a spring lifter several times in the past, but decided to try another way last time I did the job, as described below. It may sound complex, but is easier than it sounds and saves a lot of time. However, please do not attempt this method if you are in any doubt about your abilities. Slightly loosen,the rear wheel nuts. Jack up the car under the diff and support on axle stands under the vertical links.Then remove the rear wheels. It's very important to position the axle stands directly under the wishbone's outer trunnion bolt 'tube' in the middle of the wishbone. Lower the car very carefully onto the stands, checking the final resting position of the wishbones on the stands ( As the spring takes the weight,it will tend to flatten out slightly, so constantly check the stands position until the cars' full weight is safely supported. Check and check again that the car is properly and firmly supported. Remove the spring fixing access plate. Find a couple of bits of wood, about 2" x 2" x 3" ( from memory) Then position these on top of the spring, directly next to the the outer edges of the spring clamp plate. You should be able to 'fiddle' these blocks into position either through the spring clamp access hole and/or reaching into the tunnel. The idea is that the wood blocks should be a snug fit between the top leaf of the spring and the underside of the spring tunnel - to stop it moving up when you remove the spring clamp plate/nuts. Ensure that the blocks are firmly wedged in position. Then position the trolley jack under the diff to just take the weight, but no more, Do not allow it to jack the car off the axle stands. You can now remove the bolts/nuts from the halfshafts and rear propshaft flange. I found that I did not need to remove the exhaust pipe,but you might have to on a GT6. Now you can gradually loosen and remove the spring clamp nuts and clamp plate. Then using the double nut locking technique unscrew the studs from the top of the diff. You can cover the stud holes with masking tape to stop dirt ingress into the diff. Then remove the diff mounting front and rear nuts/bolts.The diff is now ready to come out, by gently lowering the trolley jack. As I was doing the job on my own I also tied the diff with some strong rope, onto the trolley jack cradle to stop it sliding about. Note that the rotoflex couplings will be pressing inwards against the halfshaft flanges, so you will need to gently lever them apart with a large screwdriver or pry bar, whilst lowering the diff out. Replacing the diff is largely the reverse operation, but ensure that the spring centering blind hole on the diff case locates properly with the spring fixing 'peg' on the underside of the spring.Refit the diff mounting nuts/bolts.Then refit the diff studs and spring clamp plate. Remove the wood blocks. Refit the spring access plate. Replace prop and halfshaft bolts/nuts. Don't forget to torque up all bolts/nuts. Have a cup of tea.