MK3 GT6 won’t come out of gear when stationary

[Welsh_7]

Hi,

whilst my gearbox is out of the car to change the rear engine oil seal I wondered if I could solve a small but nagging issue that’s been happening for years. 
 

Occasionally, when manoeuvring, once I’ve come to a stop in 1st or reverse it won’t come out out of gear back to neutral. The only remedy is to switch the engine off move into neutral and the restart. 
 

in all other ways the gearbox, 3rail with Dtype overdrive, works fine. 
 

would anybody be able to explain what might be happening and how to fix please? 

cheers

Gareth
 

 

[johny]

Wonder if the clutch is dragging and keeping torque on the gears so they dont want to separate? I take it you can slide it into neutral while still moving ok?

[Welsh_7]

Thanks Johny

yes all fine when moving.

 

[Pete Lewis]

undoubtably  this is clutch drag 

apart from the state of hydraulics  and the ability to bleed ( always make certain the bleed nipple is above the feed pipe on the slave cyl.

there are many wear points that dont help

wear on the m cyl /pedal push rod clevis holes 

thin throw out bearing  many are 15mm should be 19mm thick 

solve this by adding a washer as a spacer under the spherical post 

wear on the throwout fork groove and the arm pins  

you can reposition the anti rotation groove pin or dimple to run on a new place 

wear on the clevis pin holes can drill out over size or weld a washer in place to recentre the holes 

rucked up mats under the pedal is a simple one 

lots of small areas that reduce clutch operation 

and dont discount a incorrect bore dia master cyl.

Pete

[Welsh_7]

Thanks Pete. lots to have a look at! 

[johny]

If none of that works its just possible the gear lever linkage is worn as that can do funny things... 

[Welsh_7]

Gear linkage re-bushed 6 months ago (not due to this) but this particular problem persists. 

[NonMember]

My GT6 used to do that if I took too long doing clutch control.  Turned out to be a leaky return seal in the master cylinder. 

[johny]

Hmmm I suppose Gareth could test the clutch operation by getting the back wheels off the ground and then with engine running get someone to operate the clutch while he checks how much drive is still getting to the wheels....

[Pete Lewis]

some throwouts have a dimple to stop it spinning some have aroll pin ,easy to make a new dimple or drill and fit a split pin 

to rework a lever used drilled out old and welded in clevis pins cut to length the cure for a thin bearing is sit a washer under the spherical post  ie onto the gearbox case face 

when the post is pulled out of its hole (its a light fit) 

but hopefully bleeding will solve most of your problems   try pushing the slave back in as far as it will go to reduce volume in the slave 

 

[Welsh_7]

Appreciate the advice and guidance. Whilst it’s never stopped me driving the car I would be nice to have it working properly. Thanks. 

[Pete Lewis]

i guess you get some gnashing of teeth when engaging reverse  ???? 

does this when idling   doesnt do it engine off ???

just proves it clutch dragging 

Pete

 

 

[Welsh_7]

Yes Pete. Not every time into reverse but more often than not. 
 

pleased to know what I’m looking for now. 

[Pete Lewis]

good pleased we are not clutching at straws       .  you have a clutch clearing  problem

there can be problems with a bent disc plate or the drive straps on the cover  to add to the list  of now what 

Pete

[Welsh_7]

An update you won't be surprised to hear, the clutch was contaminated due to an oil leak into the bell housing. Two new seals, engine and gearbox just in case, and a new clutch and 300 miles or so later all is still good. Thank again fo your advice. Gareth