trevorc Posted January 24, 2016 Report Share Posted January 24, 2016 I've fitted a new rear (secondary) handbrake cable to my Herald - I cannot get enough adjustment at the wheel ends to take up the slack. I can take up slack using the front cable adjuster but then I lose the correct 15 degrees angle on the actuator arm. Anyone come across this problem? Only solution I can see is to shorten cable 30-40 mm, but everything is standard, and looks in order, so I can't work out why a standard cable doesn't work. The length of my new cable matches the length of three old ones I have in my "stock", it is 1615mm end to end, including threaded bits. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PeteH Posted January 25, 2016 Report Share Posted January 25, 2016 Hi I assume, the Primary Cable is unchanged?. Could this be the issue?. Wear in the Pins/Holes and the Counter shaft? Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnD Posted January 25, 2016 Report Share Posted January 25, 2016 Are you adjusting the cable with the wheels in their normal position, or with the car on axle stands? I know from painful experience that lowering the car tightens the cable. John 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted January 25, 2016 Report Share Posted January 25, 2016 Did you firmly lock up the rear shoe adjusters before any cable adjustment? and make sure both the rear trailing shoes are fitted the right way round, and not to set the cables with the axles , hanging, , they need to be at road running height. Pete 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trevorc Posted January 25, 2016 Author Report Share Posted January 25, 2016 Thanks for replies so far - but no cigar yet! PeteH - all pins, yokes and everything are brand new. The primary cable adjusts the angle of the actuating arm, which has to be at the angle described in the workshop manual. John - I've got the rear suspension under load. Pete Lewis - isn't there only one way round the shoes, single-leading, go? Keep 'em coming! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnD Posted January 25, 2016 Report Share Posted January 25, 2016 In that case you could have a Spitfire/GT6 cable. See: http://www.triumph.org.uk/cgi-bin/forum10/Blah.pl?m-1216627924/ "Part Nos. 133915 should be 128cm159848 130cm and159372 134 cm" John Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted January 25, 2016 Report Share Posted January 25, 2016 Yes there is only one way its supposed to go .... but the traiing shoe will fit upside down then the leading edge is the trailer and adjustment is all to pot, actuallly found on a local, spitfire last week Its surprisingly recurrent pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trevorc Posted January 25, 2016 Author Report Share Posted January 25, 2016 John - I've read that thread. The short chassis cars do have a choice of three lengths, all of which are about 300mm shorter than the Herald cable - I seem to need a shorter one - but not THAT short! Pete - I've lost count how many times I've changed rear brake shoes in the 36 years I've been working on Heralds - I hope I've not been doing it wrong!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted January 25, 2016 Report Share Posted January 25, 2016 36 Years Brilliant , just throwing ideas in the pot, For those who get it wrong the rear shoe must have the rectangular HB hole at the bottom back to basics what was wrong that required a replacement ?? pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trevorc Posted January 25, 2016 Author Report Share Posted January 25, 2016 OK since you ask - I'm restoring the first car I ever owned - bought in 1978 - a 1967 Herald 1200 Estate - though I had three serviceable handbrake cables in my stock only a shiny new one is good enough! All four cables are the same length (1615mm including threaded ends) - when the car was last on the road I did have one of those cable adjusters you attach that puts a kink in the cable to shorten it - I've put that back now but still I'm at the end of the adjustment at the brake end - as you adjust up the threaded end you get to point where you can't move the handbrake pull off spring anchor far enough to get some tension in the spring. Frankly I'm stumped - just can't see any reason why I'm running out of adjustment. I'm tempted to go back to the primary cable and ignore the 15 degree angle shown in the workshop manual. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted January 26, 2016 Report Share Posted January 26, 2016 I remember them ,, i would think they could be outlawed now ??? can there be some other effect like the wheels track is too narrow for some obscure reason?? is the horseshoe the correct one , not had something odd fitted ?? Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trevorc Posted January 30, 2016 Author Report Share Posted January 30, 2016 Ok, I need to move on, prop and exhaust waiting to go on. With Darren Groves up from Devon for the weekend and supporting me in the garage we've set the adjustment at each wheel at about 3mm from maximum, with the anchors for the pull-off springs right up the threads as far as they can go. Then we've taken up the slack in the secondary cable by adjusting up the primary cable so that wheels lock at about six clicks. We've lost the 15 degree WSM angle, but something had to give. Will need to plead "all new parts" to the MOT man at first test if brake efficiency is marginal. I'll redo everything after some bedding in. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now