Armstrong lever arm shocker mod.

[Puglet1]

Hi all.

Now at the point of what to do with rear suspension.

The body is in very good original condition - undersealed from new and has never been welded.

The rear rotoflex are in very good condition and don’t really need replacing.

The rear shockers are now at a stage whereby they need sorting.

Based on the above information, I am slightly reluctant to disturbing the tub to chassis fitment as required for the bracket and shocker replacement if retaining the rotoflex system.

 I could fit CV type driveshafts and non rotoflex shockers but it seems a bit of a waste as my rear shafts are ok.

 I have found a company that will refurbish my lever type shockers and can also fit adjustable valves.

Can I ask your opinions?

Many thanks.

Pete.

[Gary Flinn]

Hi Pete

I fitted some exchange re-conditioned standard Lever Arm dampers when I rebuilt my Vitesse and they were fine, although some people feel they are antiquated and give a softer ride.

You can also have the damper oil swopped for a slightly thicker type which should firm them up, but if your having adjustable valves fitted this isn't probably necessary.  

The only reason I upgraded to Koni's with the Extension Brackets was to match the front Koni's and also try and improve the ride and handling a bit, it also seemed a popular conversion.

I can't say as I noticed that much difference in the ride quality, but I know the current owner raves about how well the car rides and handles.

If your happy with the Lever Arm dampers that's fine, it might be worth changing the damper link arms if they are original, the metalastic bushes will no doubt have perished after all these years, I got a set off Chic Doig in Scotland for my car, he still lists them.

https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=&ved=2ahUKEwit5qX6tJaCAxUmVkEAHWnICusQFnoECCEQAQ&url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.chicdoig.co.uk%2Fcar-store%2FTRIUMPH-VITESSE-MK11-Rotaflex-Rear-Lever-Arm-Shock-Link-Arm-150842-CHIC-DOIG-p421139348&usg=AOvVaw2ocvkME2Dr3T6Oq44r4rcI&opi=89978449

Cheers

Gary

    

 

Edited October 27, 2023 by Gary Flinn

[trigolf]

Back before I decided to convert to tele shockers(30+yrs) ,I initially replaced the original lever arm shocks, which were knackered, with a reconditioned pair from a local motor factors. Obviously they were'nt 'reconditioned' to a good standard as they started leaking from the arm seals within a year. So I was'nt very impressed!

[Puglet1]

Hi Gary.

As usual, Thank you for your support. It’s so much easier to make a decision after an experienced person has offered help and advice.

I keep swaying between the 3 options I have listed above but they all seem to have their pros and cons.

 I was 95% on my way to fitting the brackets and your Koni option but I thought about the negative effects of separating the tub to chassis…… (difficult to do and I guess a potential for corrosion due to the increased gap between the tub and chassis?). Hence, as a novice at this sort of thing, your advice is very much appreciated.

Pete.

[Paul H]

I’ve made the conversion to my mk2 Vitesse with Gaz shocks with the club shop conversion. Whilst it’s not an easy job I’d choose this option again . There is no visible gap between the chassis and body tub so not a source of corrosion.

Paul

[Puglet1]

trigolf. I bet you’re going to be smiling all over your face after throwing that curveball in. I hadn’t accounted for the reconditioned lever arms being of poor quality.

Anyway, your comment has given me another quandary to think about 😀🤞.

Pete.

 

[trigolf]

Puglet I don't mean to throw a spanner in the works. It's your choice at the end of the day!

If you decide to go for bracket option, I seem to recall not only loosening the top chassis mount bolts (x)2 in the boot, but also the boot outrigger bolts( x 4). I then used a standard Herald scissor jack placed on top of the leaf spring to gently ease the floor up enough to wriggle the brackets in ( a bit Heath Robinson, but it worked,refer to StraightSixs pic in Shocked and Surprised). Of course other peeps might have a different method!

[Puglet1]

trigolf. Thank you for coming back to me. That makes it much easier for me to understand what is involved. Based on what you have said, I shall take another look at it before making my final decision .

Pete.

 

[Paul H]

15 hours ago, Paul H said:

I’ve made the conversion to my mk2 Vitesse with Gaz shocks with the club shop conversion. Whilst it’s not an easy job I’d choose this option again . There is no visible gap between the chassis and body tub so not a source of corrosion.

Paul

Just remembered how I fitted the top suspension bracket . Because I couldn’t raise the body tub enough I used a 12 in’s steel rule . I cut out a section to go round a bolt and sharpened the end to get an edge to start . With the steel rule hammered in place I slid the bracket in over the top and knocked it home . Removing the steel rule wasn’t too difficult as used a sliding hammer plus with the bracket in place it opened the gap by breaking sealant / paint which was preventing the body tub lifting. One thing I did learn was that there were no bolts on the ends of the outriggers , probably explaining the creaking 😱

Hope this helps 

Paul 

 

[Puglet1]

52 minutes ago, Paul H said:

Just remembered how I fitted the top suspension bracket . Because I couldn’t raise the body tub enough I used a 12 in’s steel rule . I cut out a section to go round a bolt and sharpened the end to get an edge to start . With the steel rule hammered in place I slid the bracket in over the top and knocked it home . Removing the steel rule wasn’t too difficult as used a sliding hammer plus with the bracket in place it opened the gap by breaking sealant / paint which was preventing the body tub lifting. One thing I did learn was that there were no bolts on the ends of the outriggers , probably explaining the creaking 😱

Hope this helps 

Paul 

 

Hi Paul.

Yes, that’s brilliant! That certainly does help 👍

Pete.