rear wheel geometry

[micmak]

I have noticed that most Vitesses and Heralds have very positive camber on the rear wheels.  However, I think my Vitesse is exceptional positive.  It really looks weird that the tops of the wheels are so far out compared to the bottom.  And I noticed that it is worse if I have reversed the car, and stopped.  If I go forward a foot or so, it seems to be ever so slightly closer to zero, but only a tiny bit.  I understand that part of the restoration of this car included a new rear spring.  When I bought the car, the seller said that the positive camber was because of the new spring and it would settle in time.  Not sure if I believe him.  If I were to drive the car as a daily car to and from work, in traffic, and on the main roads, it might settle after a few years.  But as a toy car that will only come out a half dozen times a year, I can’t see it settling anytime soon.  

Is there any adjustment I can make, or should I just ignore it?

.....Mick.....

[Pete Lewis]

as this camber changes when you drive its down to incorrect rear wheel Toe

have a read of this link there are cheap tools about to make it easy but you can do a lot with simple diy 

you dont need lasers or 4 wheel alignment +costs to correct your problem

if you want to reduce the neg camber then fit a lowering block between spring and diff  available from manyAlloy Diff Spacers : Canley Classics

the wsm data for Vitesse does state 150lbs on EACH seat to set the static ride height   so get rent a crowd round or a

project needing a few bags of sand .

doing it unladen will not get the correct result 

 

Edited December 1, 2023 by Pete Lewis

[dannyb]

You can add a lowering block between spring and diff.

Danny

Looks like Pete beat me.

Edited December 1, 2023 by dannyb
Error

[Qu1ckn1ck]

As suggested by Pete, a lowering block solved a similar problem with a new spring on my GT6.

[Pete Lewis]

Danny and me playing at Snap !!!

[micmak]

3 hours ago, Pete Lewis said:

as this camber changes when you drive its down to incorrect rear wheel Toe

have a read of this link there are cheap tools about to make it easy but you can do a lot with simple diy 

you dont need lasers or 4 wheel alignment +costs to correct your problem

if you want to reduce the neg camber then fit a lowering block between spring and diff  available from manyAlloy Diff Spacers : Canley Classics

the wsm data for Vitesse does state 150lbs on EACH seat to set the static ride height   so get rent a crowd round or a

project needing a few bags of sand .

doing it unladen will not get the correct result 

 

OK, I just need to understand this a bit more.  Pete, are you saying that the positive camber is caused by incorrect toe? How can the incorrect direction (straight or un-straight) of a wheel impact its camber (tilted in or out)?   And further still, how can a lowering block between the diff and the spring correct it?  I can see that some sort of lowering block might correct the camber, but surely that has nothing to do with the toe?
And are you telling me that I need to get a bunch of beefy people into my little car before deciding if I have a problem or not??😄

By the way, this is not going to be a tomorrow or the next day kind of issue.  Once I have the car running properly and no longer dumping fuel, I hope to then adjust the body panels to allow the doors to close properly.  THEN, rear wheel camber will be my next challenge - probably not before next Summer.

.....Mick.....

 

[Pete Lewis]

if the rear toe is not around zero then as you move the /\ of the tyres/wheels will either try to converge or separate

hence why the camber climbs or reduces depending on toe in/toe out /backwards/forwards 

its a common problem with a swing axle arrangement less obvious with a double wishbone .

the idea of loading is to get the suspension in its average road running height  unladen will give you a error unless the data specifically says unladen .

a lowering block will give you a better appearance and less    \-/ camber  it has no effect on toe but any change in suspension needs the toe resetting as a matter of coarse.as one change willl affect all the other  setting .

so you need to do both add a block and measure the toe ,  two bits of timber and a tape measure + a spare pair of hands 

 

 

[micmak]

8 hours ago, Pete Lewis said:

if the rear toe is not around zero then as you move the /\ of the tyres/wheels will either try to converge or separate

hence why the camber climbs or reduces depending on toe in/toe out /backwards/forwards 

its a common problem with a swing axle arrangement less obvious with a double wishbone .

the idea of loading is to get the suspension in its average road running height  unladen will give you a error unless the data specifically says unladen .

a lowering block will give you a better appearance and less    \-/ camber  it has no effect on toe but any change in suspension needs the toe resetting as a matter of coarse.as one change willl affect all the other  setting .

so you need to do both add a block and measure the toe ,  two bits of timber and a tape measure + a spare pair of hands 

 

 

Pete, initially, this seems very complicated.  But when you take a moment and really study it, it more or less makes sense.  I am no mathematician, surveyor or geometrist (is that even a word???), but what you are saying makes a certain amount of sense to me.  I will put it on the back burner for now.  I have more pressing issues like the proper running of the car and then the panel alignment.  But I look forward to trying to address this issue over the next couple of seasons (probably in the Summer).  I think it is a manual thing that needs no specific instruments or machinery.  I’m sure they didn’t have such instruments back when these little cars were built.  I like to consider myself to have reasonable intelligence, so it can't be TOO difficult.  I will consult you and the other Gentlemen when I am at a point where I am ready to make these adjustments.  Thank you, Pete.

 …..Mick…..