Jon J 1250 Posted April 9 Report Share Posted April 9 Hi, I've just bought the currently available rear trunnion bush kit from one of the main parts suppliers. (i've always used NOS BL or QH before) A couple of questions: 1. See the first phot, the protective cupped washer that goes against the hub, the kit comes with two separate depths, any ideas why? (the shallow one seems to be correct) 2. See the second photo, the workshop manual says to put the rubber seal around the washer welded to the vertical link, I have never done this, have always put it on the outside edge of the trunnion bush to be enclosed by the two cupped washers as per the third photo. Surely that's correct, why would the manual suggest putting it on the outside? Would be interested to hear some thoughts. Cheers Jon Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johny Posted April 9 Report Share Posted April 9 Hi, 1/ There seems to have been some problems with the kits not fitting the space available in the uprights, which might actually have varying dimensions, so it looks like the manufacturers are supplying different options. 2/ I seem to remember that initially Triumph had trunnions that suffered from crud ingress so they changed the design to try to improve sealing... 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jon J 1250 Posted April 10 Author Report Share Posted April 10 14 hours ago, johny said: Hi, 1/ There seems to have been some problems with the kits not fitting the space available in the uprights, which might actually have varying dimensions, so it looks like the manufacturers are supplying different options. 2/ I seem to remember that initially Triumph had trunnions that suffered from crud ingress so they changed the design to try to improve sealing... Thanks, I guess I'll keep on doing it the way I always have, never felt the need to look in the Workshop manual for this job, and then when i did, it totally threw me! 😄 I just hope the crush tube is long enough in this kit, I have heard bad things about this in some repro parts, if the tube is too short the whole joint will lock up when you torque it up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johny Posted April 10 Report Share Posted April 10 Is your manual an old version because the Vitesse/GT6 one shows the newer design. Once youve installed the top hats and inner seal discs fully home in the trunnion try the tube in place. It MUST protrude each side. If not perhaps use the old tube? 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted April 10 Report Share Posted April 10 there is a previous posting about the thicker cup washers on a rotaflex Pete 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jon J 1250 Posted April 10 Author Report Share Posted April 10 21 minutes ago, Pete Lewis said: there is a previous posting about the thicker cup washers on a rotaflex Pete Thanks Pete, I did try searching for previous discussion but didn't see that. 👍 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johny Posted April 10 Report Share Posted April 10 Not sure how different thickness cups helps really as I think its the rubber seal that is the deciding factor... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jon J 1250 Posted April 10 Author Report Share Posted April 10 11 hours ago, johny said: Is your manual an old version because the Vitesse/GT6 one shows the newer design. Once youve installed the top hats and inner seal discs fully home in the trunnion try the tube in place. It MUST protrude each side. If not perhaps use the old tube? Just checked manual, it is second edition from late 1965, so quite early. I used the shallower discs as they match the originals, the crush tube was a tiny bit longer than the original so used the new one, the new seals were too thick and far too small go on the ends of the top hats without heating and stretching them to the right size….but because they’re too thick, annoyingly squeezed out of the discs when tightened. So I ended up reusing the original seals which were in good condition, after that everything went together perfectly. The curse of using modern repro parts I guess, but it could have been worse. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johny Posted April 11 Report Share Posted April 11 Got there in the end and just hope the manufacturer at least managed to get the quality of the plastic material right😞 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin Lindsay Posted April 11 Report Share Posted April 11 That's an interesting photo of Jon J's above, it seems to show the rubber seal being put around the 'washer' on the inside of the vertical link, which presumably then uses only one metal cup to seal against? Consequently if you use both metal cups, this moves the rubber ring inwards, and does it put more pressure on the joint? I'll have to dig one out and experiment, now! This one is from Peter Russek's excellent book and shows both cups being used, facing in and out, around the rubber ring with a shaded area to either side of the outer cup that may be those welded washers: 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johny Posted April 11 Report Share Posted April 11 Ah that might be why theres a deeper inner dust seal in the kit to suit the earlier arrangement shown in Jon's manual... 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jon J 1250 Posted April 12 Author Report Share Posted April 12 14 hours ago, johny said: Ah that might be why theres a deeper inner dust seal in the kit to suit the earlier arrangement shown in Jon's manual... Seems logical, if you wanted to do it that way, even though there would be no reason why you couldn't do it the improved way....who knows. 🤷♂️ Thanks Jon Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johny Posted April 12 Report Share Posted April 12 Some people have found it tight to get both inner and outer dust seals in place so the old method would give a bit more room. Also I cant see how one width of rubber seal works perfectly for both set ups so the one in the kit might, as you found, really be too wide for use with double dust seals... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin Lindsay Posted April 12 Report Share Posted April 12 2 hours ago, johny said: Some people have found it tight to get both inner and outer dust seals in place so the old method would give a bit more room. Also I cant see how one width of rubber seal works perfectly for both set ups so the one in the kit might, as you found, really be too wide for use with double dust seals... I haven't managed to get to the spares store this morning, but do all rear uprights have those thick 'washers' on the inside faces, or is it just early versions that may have used one inner outward-facing cup and thick sealing ring as per the photograph? It's one of those things I've just taken for granted and now the question's been raised, I have to find out. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jon J 1250 Posted April 12 Author Report Share Posted April 12 (edited) 38 minutes ago, Colin Lindsay said: I haven't managed to get to the spares store this morning, but do all rear uprights have those thick 'washers' on the inside faces, or is it just early versions that may have used one inner outward-facing cup and thick sealing ring as per the photograph? It's one of those things I've just taken for granted and now the question's been raised, I have to find out. I don't have an answer, as have never seen otherwise, but my mid 1965 build Herald and my NOS BL era uprights both have the thick welded washers. Edited April 12 by Jon J 1250 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin Lindsay Posted April 12 Report Share Posted April 12 Well, I've just checked... all my vertical links have that circular extension on the insides, and any I've found online are the same. Now I'm wondering: does this mean that all of mine are fitted incorrectly, or what's the reason for the seeming change of fitment? What happens if I fit them as per photo? I'm going to have to experiment, just for sanity's sake... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johny Posted April 12 Report Share Posted April 12 Think all have the washer to have a nice flat face for the outer dust seal to sit against but maybe the distance between them was changed as theres been reports of some being tighter than others. As I say think I read that initially the sealing wasnt good enough so Triumph opted to squeeze the rubber between two dust seals... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johny Posted April 12 Report Share Posted April 12 I think when I do mine if the rubber seal is too thick I'll look for some o-ring cord just slightly thicker than the top hat rim and make a seal from that... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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