SpitfireGeorge Posted June 29 Report Share Posted June 29 Hi Guys, Another problem now. Having replaced the fuel tank and cleaned out the fuel system the car will not now start. On attempting to start the motor is dead. The solenoid does not click and I have checked the voltage on the white/red wire and it shows 13.5V when trying to crank. The solenoid was new replacing the old rusted one. Can anybody recommend a source of good ones? Cheers Brett Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted June 29 Report Share Posted June 29 have you tried shorting the solenoid terminal posts with an old screwdriver to prove the motor will run ?? Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SpitfireGeorge Posted June 29 Author Report Share Posted June 29 Hi Pete, Just tried that and it turns over fine. According to the wiring diagram the white/red wire from the ignition switch is the one that operates it although there are some brown wires attached but they are only power supplies for other systems. Regards, Brett Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johny Posted June 29 Report Share Posted June 29 Also check the solenoid casing is well earthed to make the coil circuit - try a temporary earth cable to it if not sure.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SpitfireGeorge Posted June 29 Author Report Share Posted June 29 OK Johny will do. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SpitfireGeorge Posted July 1 Author Report Share Posted July 1 Hi Guys, Added a new earth wire but still does not work. Tried touching a temporary wire from the input terminal to the positive battery terminal, still nothing. Satisfied the solenoid is a goner. Looking at Ebay there are loads of different makes fpr sale such as Lucas, Intermotor, Le Mark, Benni, FD SMP, Ruva, MFD, Stallex amonst others. Can anybody recommend a decent make as the current one only lasted a dozen or so starts. Cheers Brett Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SpitfireGeorge Posted July 2 Author Report Share Posted July 2 Hi Guys, Is the Spitfire mk4 solenoid OK on a mk3? Cheers Brett Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted July 2 Report Share Posted July 2 yes std part the only general options are if there is a ballast ign feed added bu you dont have to use it Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SpitfireGeorge Posted July 2 Author Report Share Posted July 2 Thats great thanks Pete, increases my choices on Ebay. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johny Posted July 2 Report Share Posted July 2 The original was probably the round type with manual push button but they seem to be harder to find and more expensive than the square version... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin Lindsay Posted July 7 Report Share Posted July 7 On 02/07/2024 at 10:48, johny said: The original was probably the round type with manual push button but they seem to be harder to find and more expensive than the square version... I actually find it the other way round; the round push-button version is very common, even one of my local Motor Factors have them on the shelf, and also cheaper but the older square version seems harder to find new. Suppliers like Holden have them at £62 for the round and £19 for the square. The really hard to find ones are the square push button versions with the red push button for starting from the engine bay; I ended up rebuilding one a while back just for that feature. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SpitfireGeorge Posted July 12 Author Report Share Posted July 12 Hi Guys, Bought a new Lucas one from Ebay. Special offer £16. Fitted it and it works! Hope it lasts longer than the last one. Thanks for all the help and suggestions. Cheers, Brett Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin Lindsay Posted July 12 Report Share Posted July 12 I've just rebuilt one, for the fun of it. Red button was seized solid and it was heavily corroded inside. It's fiddly and you can break things easily (and there are at least two different types, one where an internal wire is soldered and one where it is merely looped in place!!) but it's interesting and if it finally works when reassembled it's a bonus. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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