Ian Foster Posted September 30 Report Share Posted September 30 James I fitted a new spring to my GT6 Mk2, initially with a 1/2" lowering block in the expectation of a new spring giving an increased ride height. It was almost immediately too low, so I refitted my original 6 leaf spring, with the addition of an extra leaf in the centre. Now just right with wheels nicely vertical, good over the bumps and in roll. I am not familiar with Vitesse springs, but it is possible that your new spring has been manufactured with thinner leaves than original spec (I do recall this issue coming up previously-maybe on Sideways). Ian Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
James H Posted September 30 Author Report Share Posted September 30 (edited) 19 minutes ago, Iain T said: I've got it...... gravity is greater in France 😁 Thanks Iain, problem solved 😉 For those who know better than I about the trunnion bolts, could it explain things ?? Dave said there might be rust involved... Edited September 30 by James H Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
James H Posted September 30 Author Report Share Posted September 30 4 minutes ago, Ian Foster said: James I fitted a new spring to my GT6 Mk2, initially with a 1/2" lowering block in the expectation of a new spring giving an increased ride height. It was almost immediately too low, so I refitted my original 6 leaf spring, with the addition of an extra leaf in the centre. Now just right with wheels nicely vertical, good over the bumps and in roll. I am not familiar with Vitesse springs, but it is possible that your new spring has been manufactured with thinner leaves than original spec (I do recall this issue coming up previously-maybe on Sideways). Ian Ian thanks for the info, my first port of call was Dave at Canley because of the sticker still being on the spring (a photo is included in an earlier post on this thread), he naturally said it was extremely unlikely to be an issue and I too have heard no reason to doubt their products but as they say anything is possible, what else could it be... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johny Posted September 30 Report Share Posted September 30 I think its almost definitely going to be the spring as can you imagine how difficult it is to manufacture a new one to the exactly the same spec as original? Youve got to get the same grade steel in the same imperial thickness then try to bend it to the same curve and temper it to the same springyness all without most of the original information! This has to be done for each model and variation of course all for a price that people will pay🤣 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
James H Posted September 30 Author Report Share Posted September 30 (edited) 6 minutes ago, johny said: I think its almost definitely going to be the spring as can you imagine how difficult it is to manufacture a new one to the exactly the same spec as original? Youve got to get the same grade steel in the same imperial thickness then try to bend it to the same curve and temper it to the same springyness all without most of the original information! This has to be done for each model and variation of course all for a price that people will pay🤣 Absolutely, its got to be, but far from being disappointed I'm chuffed to bits having a unique one with low ride height off the bump stops and a positive camber, cheers Dave ! Just need one chopped up body in the boot on the passenger side and it'll sit level too Edited September 30 by James H 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johny Posted September 30 Report Share Posted September 30 Unfortunately I think the answer which we've seen a few times on here now is dont change your original spring unless its absolutely necessary👍 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johny Posted September 30 Report Share Posted September 30 oh theres another thing we've learnt on here James. If at any time you do want more ride height it can be acheived by replacing the plastic glide buttons between the blades. The spring has to be removed and dismantled but theres different button types and the thicker and harder they are the more they seem to increase the curve of the spring so raising the car.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
James H Posted September 30 Author Report Share Posted September 30 1 minute ago, johny said: oh theres another thing we've learnt on here James. If at any time you do want more ride height it can be acheived by replacing the plastic glide buttons between the blades. The spring has to be removed and dismantled but theres different button types and the thicker and harder they are the more they seem to increase the curve of the spring so raising the car.... thanks, had no idea, might explain the slight lean if things aren't balanced on mine ? I'll keep it in mind Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
James H Posted September 30 Author Report Share Posted September 30 (edited) I'm sure its inevitable someones going to notice the length of copper fuel pipe from the under bonnet photo I posted so I'll preemptively explain myself... The po had an electric fuel pump mounted near the mechanical original and there were two issues, heat and the fact that it was above the level of the tank. Even though two types are available I learnt the hard way that electric pumps generally still prefer to push rather than pull and so despite manufacturer claims they do not self prime well so I've put a high suction engine compartment version in the boot instead, level with the bottom of the tank, for maximum priming. The extended distance to "push" the fuel is a non issue. There is an inline filter high up next to the brake servo and the supply is routed to best avoid the engine heat (and exhaust manifold). The carbs have heat shields so there is that added protection. Its run flawlessly for over a year like this in a hilly area of Provence in 40°c+ summer heat and snow in the winter, starts instantly from hot and the temp gauge always sits in the middle, or maybe its just luck, so there you go if I can give something back here maybe its this... Edited October 1 by James H Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johny Posted September 30 Report Share Posted September 30 Good for you and yes fuel vaporisation is quite a common theme on here. I see also a couple of other non standard items in the photo: the battery must be in the boot and is that an electric radiator fan I can see? What type is it as quite difficult to get something to fit... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trigolf Posted September 30 Report Share Posted September 30 7 minutes ago, johny said: is that an electric radiator fan I can see? What type is it as quite difficult to get something to fit... Looks suspiciously like a Kenlowe Unifan, using their mounting bar(s) system, rather than the 'through the rad' bolts. I had the 'thorough the rad' type fitted. It's still a very tight fit, with JUST enough clearance to replace the fanbelt.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johny Posted September 30 Report Share Posted September 30 Must do the job👍 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
James H Posted September 30 Author Report Share Posted September 30 (edited) 22 hours ago, johny said: Good for you and yes fuel vaporisation is quite a common theme on here. I see also a couple of other non standard items in the photo: the battery must be in the boot and is that an electric radiator fan I can see? What type is it as quite difficult to get something to fit... Yep battery in the boot and a Kenlowe fan, when I got the car it was on backwards... I dont know why it never overheats, all I can do is share whats installed and what I've done which is a Kenlowe electric fan kit behind the rad, verified for airflow direction and set to the default thermostat trigger setting, installed a 74°c engine thermostat for the rad, drained/flushed the system fully including the "hidden" tap in the block and use pure -25°c coolant. It reached 46°c here this summer and I would occasionally find myself stuck in stop/start traffic, no problem for the car but I wanted to die so if I can give something back on the forum maybe its this... Edited October 1 by James H Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
James H Posted September 30 Author Report Share Posted September 30 (edited) 56 minutes ago, trigolf said: Looks suspiciously like a Kenlowe Unifan, using their mounting bar(s) system, rather than the 'through the rad' bolts. I had the 'thorough the rad' type fitted. It's still a very tight fit, with JUST enough clearance to replace the fanbelt.... Yep thats it and its very tight, within mm of the rad Edited September 30 by James H Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trigolf Posted September 30 Report Share Posted September 30 I've just removed my Kenlowe fan as my rad had 2 leaks and needed replacing. The replacement new Bastuck rad is very slightly deeper ( 30% uprated core). As the fins/tubes are much more packed, you can't use 'through the rad' fixing - never liked that system anyway.. Many checks and measuring carried out, but whatever elec fan template I tried, I couldn't find one that gave a practical 'clearance' gap for future fan belt replacement easily and without having to dismantle bits and bobs. After a LOT of pondering, I have refitted the old mech plastic fan c/w new mounting bushes. Block and heater was flushed and a new water pump fitted ( old one was leaking slightly). Time will tell whether the original set- up, albeit with uprated rad, will cope with modern traffic jams. Wish me luck!🤞 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
James H Posted September 30 Author Report Share Posted September 30 (edited) 8 minutes ago, trigolf said: I've just removed my Kenlowe fan as my rad had 2 leaks and needed replacing. The replacement new Bastuck rad is very slightly deeper ( 30% uprated core). As the fins/tubes are much more packed, you can't use 'through the rad' fixing - never liked that system anyway.. Many checks and measuring carried out, but whatever elec fan template I tried, I couldn't find one that gave a practical 'clearance' gap for future fan belt replacement easily and without having to dismantle bits and bobs. After a LOT of pondering, I have refitted the old mech plastic fan c/w new mounting bushes. Block and heater was flushed and a new water pump fitted ( old one was leaking slightly). Time will tell whether the original set- up, albeit with uprated rad, will cope with modern traffic jams. Wish me luck!🤞 Are you uprating the rad because of overheating issues too or just because it was an opportunity to do so ? Where in the world are you ?? In any case 🤞🤞 Edited September 30 by James H Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trigolf Posted September 30 Report Share Posted September 30 10 minutes ago, James H said: Are you uprating the rad because of overheating issues too or just because it was an opportunity to do so ? Where in the world are you ?? In any case 🤞🤞 Only went for a new rad, as to get the old one reconditioned in standard build was looking likely to be fairly close price-wise..My Vit never boiled over in traffic yrs ago IIRC, but did get very hot and bothered. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
James H Posted September 30 Author Report Share Posted September 30 (edited) 9 minutes ago, trigolf said: Only went for a new rad, as to get the old one reconditioned in standard build was looking likely to be fairly close price-wise..My Vit never boiled over in traffic yrs ago IIRC, but did get very hot and bothered. I cannot possibly imagine you having issues, I'm not that lucky, if a Vitesse can cope with 40° ambient in traffic it can surely cope under any conditions in the UK or similar, it'll be fine 🤞🤞 Of course an electric fan is better when stationary in traffic but even so the climate differential is too big, I'll take a photo of how mine is mounted tomorrow and share it in case it can help someone else. Edited September 30 by James H Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johny Posted September 30 Report Share Posted September 30 2 hours ago, James H said: I dont know why it never overheats, all I can do is share whats installed and what I've done which is a Kenlowe electric fan kit behind the rad, verified for airflow direction and set to the default thermostat trigger setting, installed a 72°c engine thermostat for the rad, drained/flushed the system fully including the "hidden" tap in the block and use pure -25°c coolant. It reached 46°c here this summer and I would occasionally find myself stuck in stop/start traffic, no problem for the car but I wanted to die so if I can give something back on the forum maybe its this... Thats fantastic and I think maybe you shouldnt touch the ignition timing as it could generate more heat😮 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
James H Posted October 1 Author Report Share Posted October 1 11 hours ago, johny said: Thats fantastic and I think maybe you shouldnt touch the ignition timing as it could generate more heat😮 At factory setting you may be right but the timing retard was actually done very recently, during the extreme summer heat I still had it advanced at 5 or 6° BTDC, again with no probs in traffic although the pinging uphill would make the temp rise but still not overheat. Just remembered the rad has been moved forward for extra space too, anyway will post some pics later on. Still envy your mpg figures, will have to experiment ! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johny Posted October 1 Report Share Posted October 1 Fit an overdrive and apparently fuel consumption can be even better! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
James H Posted October 1 Author Report Share Posted October 1 (edited) 39 minutes ago, johny said: Fit an overdrive and apparently fuel consumption can be even better! 👍 A little anecdote about the Kenlowe fan is that when I discovered it was on back to front the shaft was corroded enough to prevent the plastic blade coming off so I had to dismantle the motor end for better access/leverage but when I finally got it apart all the internals fell and scattered on the floor. I got the blade off and flipped it, sprayed everything and fumbled it all back together with zero hope of it ever working again but it has been faultless ever since, a true testament to how bullet proof Kenlowe fans really are ! Edited October 1 by James H Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johny Posted October 1 Report Share Posted October 1 I love them but not available new anymore now to the public which is a real shame... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
James H Posted October 1 Author Report Share Posted October 1 1 minute ago, johny said: I love them but not available new anymore now to the public which is a real shame... I had no idea, what a shame, wow glad it still works ! So I'm not much help to people then... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johny Posted October 1 Report Share Posted October 1 Well those fans still available secondhand of course Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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