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Vitesse 2 liter - intermittent resonance / faint "grinding" between 2500 and 2750 rpm


James H

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12 minutes ago, Pete Lewis said:

is this sounding like  a prop shaft vibro ???

 

the bolt configuration on the clutch hsg is very important  and often missed

Peter

I've tried my best to describe it several times but the most accurate so far was this :

" So its actually a slow and relatively subtle pulsating grind or whirr felt through the car and not the pedal that starts at 2250 rpm and stops at 3000 rpm and only when moving.

Its intermittent in that under acceleration after each gear change it will either do it or it wont meaning that if I back off and then accelerate again it wont suddenly appear if it wasn't there before but after the next gear change it may or may not be there.

It can happen in any gear at said revs under any condition including when coasting downhill or accelerating uphill, however it vanishes when dropping the clutch and/or putting it in neutral. "

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26 minutes ago, Pete Lewis said:

does this happen on drive or on coast   

most likely causes are engine harmonics   and exhaust  fitments     the 6 pot does have a resonance  built in  

Pete

Come to think of it there is no exhaust mount around the T9, the only mounting is all the way at the rear before the silencer... maybe Iain can confirm if this is normal with a T9 installed ?

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Right so an alternative belt solution wasn't an option, the electric fan is in the way, so frustrated but keener than ever to get this resolved since I have all your help I took her out again, got her up to temp and double checked I was describing it as well as I could. The symptoms were exactly as described but I then pulled over to try again when stationary and yes it was there ! just fainter than when moving. Now even more curious I then pulled over again after thrashing it uphill and for whatever reason it was now actually more apparent stationary than when moving, go figure although of course this is not something I'd normally ever do... anyway so I revved her up repeatedly in neutral while stationary and it became pretty clear it was coming from the bell housing area and that it could also be described as a rough vibration. I then dropped the clutch while maintaining the revs and it almost disappeared, not entirely but almost.

So with your help and pretty much from the outset I think its clear what it is, bugger, gearbox out, the victim of a bit of a plonker !

Scratch that, I think the actual solution then is to drive it up to 2250 revs most of the time and only above 3000 the rest :)

Edited by J Hobbs
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6 minutes ago, Iain T said:

I have a Phoenix 631 exhaust so not standard and can't remember if there is an exhaust mount off the bell housing. I don't think so. The first one rearward is off the diff.

Iain

Thanks Iain, I wont pursue that then.

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40 minutes ago, J Hobbs said:

I then dropped the clutch while maintaining the revs and it almost disappeared, not entirely but almost

OK I've worn this tee shirt. My money is on as I said the bell housing not being fitted correctly. I'll find a download to show. If you can get the front end up on axle stands or ramp slide under neath and check the probably wrong 3/8" bolt. I bet it's 5/16" the same as all the others. If it is wrong take the gb cover off and unscrew the bell housing bolts a couple of turns and take out the incorrect bolt. Use a 3/8 drill bit or bolt to clear out the crud from the engine back panel and bell housing holes. Fit the correct bolt and tighten all the others. Don't forget to prey to the Gods of Triumph before you test drive 🤞

Iain

Edited by Iain T
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11 minutes ago, Iain T said:

OK I've worn this tee shirt. My money is on as I said the bell housing not being fitted correctly. I'll find a download to show. If you can get the front end up on axle stands or ramp slide under neath and check the probably wrong 3/8" bolt. I bet it's 5/16" the same as all the others. If it is wrong take the gb cover off and unscrew the bell housing bolts a couple of turns and take out the incorrect bolt. Use a 3/8 drill bit or bolt to clear out the crud from the engine back panel and bell housing holes. Fit the correct bolt and tighten all the others. Don't forget to prey to the Gods of Triumph before you test drive 🤞

Iain

I'm going under...

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So on mine they are all 13mm except the ones at 5 o'clockish viewed from the front which are 14mm and also mount the starter motor, are those the ones you're referring to ?

Edited by James H
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Too much wine fog after lunch. There is a post on the forum regarding this odd bolt. I can't find a photo of mine but will stagger to the car and fumble through the manual.

🍷

Iain

Edited by Iain T
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1 minute ago, Iain T said:

Iain Fosters post on page 4 tells all

Iain

Thanks and yes confirmed as not oversized, even the others are metric so ok will do as instructed once I find the right bolts, in any case it will be in the week so I'll leave you all in peace, have a great end to the weekend, cheers :)

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9 minutes ago, James H said:

metric

Metric.......!

I think the starter motor holes may be slightly oversized but there is the one dowel bolt which lines everything up and from memory looking from the GB side it's around 5 o'clock. Why didn't Triumph use two fixed dowel pins to positively locate the bell housing to the engine backplate as it has apparently caused no end of problems through being misaligned.

Time for a nap 😴 

Iain

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4 minutes ago, Iain T said:

Metric.......!

I think the starter motor holes may be slightly oversized but there is the one dowel bolt which lines everything up and from memory looking from the GB side it's around 5 o'clock. Why didn't Triumph use two fixed dowel pins to positively locate the bell housing to the engine backplate as it has apparently caused no end of problems through being misaligned.

Time for a nap 😴 

Iain

O yes, she is full of metric bolts, lucky me ! Now its a great reliable daily driver but its been a long journey getting here... watch this space 👍

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1 hour ago, Iain T said:

Metric.......!

I think the starter motor holes may be slightly oversized but there is the one dowel bolt which lines everything up and from memory looking from the GB side it's around 5 o'clock. Why didn't Triumph use two fixed dowel pins to positively locate the bell housing to the engine backplate as it has apparently caused no end of problems through being misaligned.

Time for a nap 😴 

Iain

Nowt wrong wi' metric!   Especially in a mission critical use when new, easily obtained bolts might be better than 50 year old ones.

But how can you install the bell housing rotated, when there are

TWO starter bolts

Located either side of the starter housing

That are BIGGER that the rest

And go through both back plate AND bell housing?

The correct orientation is bleeding obvious!

John

 

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1 minute ago, JohnD said:

Nowt wrong wi' metric!   Especially in a mission critical use when new, easily obtained bolts might be better than 50 year old ones.

But how can you install the bell housing rotated, when there are

TWO starter bolts

Located either side of the starter housing

That are BIGGER that the rest

And go through both back plate AND bell housing?

The correct orientation is bleeding obvious!

John

 

John hi, and theres more, I've just started looking online for a bolt set and they are all like this https://www.jamespaddock.co.uk/bolt-fixing-set-gearbox-bellhousing-to-engine-2 with 2 x 3/8" bolts that I assume as you say are for the starter and 10 x 5/16 bolts for elsewhere so I'm scratching my head again since the photo in the link provided by Johny and Iain does clearly show a 3/8 hole lower down... guess I'll have to get the bolt in question out of mine and see whats going on :) 

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