Paul H Posted September 11, 2016 Report Share Posted September 11, 2016 Hi just removed transverse spring , and one side of the wheel assembly and driveshaft and stripped down completely . The Spring is in good condition though will change the bushes The Diff is still in place as this was changed 6 months ago with blue poly bushes Changing the Rotoflex couplings though condition was pretty good , the UJ had a lot of play so being replaced , all the bushes will be changed - A few Questions 1. Are polybushes the way to go ? 2. The dampers are the lever type - there is pressure when moving the arms and there are no leaks - How can I check whether they need changing ? 3. Is the conversion to Tele Dampers worthwhile as looks like an expensive option + some online reports ive read are not positive 4. The Wheel Bearing have a small amount of play - Im assuming this is ok as the front have to have play - If incorrect I will change Thanks in advance Paul Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dougbgt6 Posted September 11, 2016 Report Share Posted September 11, 2016 Poly bushes last a long time and keep their shape, what's not too like! They are, however, a devil to install, I had to take my vice of the bench and drag it round the back of the car to squeeze them in. Also they squeaked for about 3 months. Dampers, the time honoured test, heave downwards on the wing, it goes up, down and returns to rest position. Any more oscillations and they've had it. I don't know of this Tele damper of which you speak, so no opinion. The front wheel bearings are tapered roller bearings and have to have a tiny bit of slack, as you know. The rears aren't tapered and I don't think there should be any play. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul H Posted September 11, 2016 Author Report Share Posted September 11, 2016 Poly bushes last a long time and keep their shape, what's not too like! They are, however, a devil to install, I had to take my vice of the bench and drag it round the back of the car to squeeze them in. Also they squeaked for about 3 months. Dampers, the time honoured test, heave downwards on the wing, it goes up, down and returns to rest position. Any more oscillations and they've had it. I don't know of this Tele damper of which you speak, so no opinion. The front wheel bearings are tapered roller bearings and have to have a tiny bit of slack, as you know. The rears aren't tapered and I don't think there should be any play. Hi Doug - many thanks for your input - Polybush fitting shouldnt be a major issue as all parts are on the bench - I didnt realise that the rears were not tapered ( still learning !! ) so will replace them - Is there a brand to buy ? Regards Paul Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dougbgt6 Posted September 11, 2016 Report Share Posted September 11, 2016 I tighten up the front wheel bearing before the MOT and slacken them off afterwards. They don't like clonky wheel bearings, even if they're supposed to be like that! The club shop sell the bearings. Club shop go for good quality at a reasonable price. Best to phone Gareth to ensure you get the right ones. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted September 11, 2016 Report Share Posted September 11, 2016 If you are doing any rota flex hub bearings I suggest you get a workshop manual form club shop or search for steves online copies There is specific end float on rear hubs and the problem is there are very limited shims available to controll this Many dont like lever shockers but if there is a good steady resistance and no leaks They should be satisfactory pete pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted September 12, 2016 Report Share Posted September 12, 2016 Paul. I converted my lever arm units for the telescopic struts and I have to say it made a very noticeable difference - with the ride being far more responsive. There was nothing wrong with the lever units, but they are getting harder to find in serviceable condition and there are very few places that will overhaul them and provide a decent job & price for doing so !! Have used the GAZ adjustable shocks; some will say go Koni or Spax but I think GAZ are very underrated and have to say they do all I require. I also took the opportunity to overhaul & replace the rear trunions. Purchase wise, I got mine via Rimmers only because I was attending the NEC a couple of years ago and they delivered free to the show. I believe the Club Shop does the conversion as well. IMHO, a positive upgrade. Good luck. Richard. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TomL Posted September 13, 2016 Report Share Posted September 13, 2016 Hi, I, too, have fitted GAZ telescopic dampers (from the club shop) and have been happy with the results. You will need the bracket that fits to the chassis which provides the top fixing for the damper. These are available from the club shop and, I believe, Canleys (and probably others too). I don't think you'll regret the change if you do it. I also suffered from the squeaking that dougbgt6 mentions; it's surprisingly loud but it does cease after a while. There is a silicone lubricant that comes with most polybushes and I think I may been a bit sparing with this, as I have heard that a liberal application of this stuff goes some way to prevent the squeak. Let us know how you get on. Tom 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dougbgt6 Posted September 13, 2016 Report Share Posted September 13, 2016 Another vote for club shop Gaz. Great improvement, very pleased with them. I got the non-adjustable. There IS a stiffness adjustment but you don't get the adjustable spring plate, I'm not going racing so didn't fancy it, If that makes sense. Strangely the front came with rubber bushes and the rear with poly bushes, and no silicon lubricant! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted September 13, 2016 Report Share Posted September 13, 2016 just looked up rota flex hub bearing final assy end float is 0.0005-0.0025" thats pretty small Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul H Posted September 13, 2016 Author Report Share Posted September 13, 2016 Another vote for club shop Gaz. Great improvement, very pleased with them. I got the non-adjustable. There IS a stiffness adjustment but you don't get the adjustable spring plate, I'm not going racing so didn't fancy it, If that makes sense. Strangely the front came with rubber bushes and the rear with poly bushes, and no silicon lubricant! Hi Doug, the non adjustable sounds what im looking for - Is this the set I need ( see pic ) Plus do you get the bolts in the kit Regards Paul Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dougbgt6 Posted September 13, 2016 Report Share Posted September 13, 2016 Paul, those are the shockers but I didn't need the brackets, best to speak to Gareth at the shop. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted September 13, 2016 Report Share Posted September 13, 2016 Paul. Have a look at Rimmers RG1306GAZ, which is the same as the Club Shop (CS) - not sure where the CS gets the idea that they only can supply the correct GAZ shocks etc !! The units I have got are identical and never had a problem. The Rimmers code lists what you get in full; I do agree that Rimmers is £1 more expensive but depends what the p&p is compared between the 2x suppliers. I have not checked Canleys website, so worth looking at that. If you are going to the NEC then Rimmers will take the kit to the show and that may be the same for the CS. To be honest, I'd go for the adjustable units which gives you a wide range of driving settings (good fun experimenting) and you do not have to be a racing driver to benefit from this conversion. Just my thoughts. Regards. Richard. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul H Posted September 14, 2016 Author Report Share Posted September 14, 2016 Paul. Have a look at Rimmers RG1306GAZ, which is the same as the Club Shop (CS) - not sure where the CS gets the idea that they only can supply the correct GAZ shocks etc !! The units I have got are identical and never had a problem. The Rimmers code lists what you get in full; I do agree that Rimmers is £1 more expensive but depends what the p&p is compared between the 2x suppliers. I have not checked Canleys website, so worth looking at that. If you are going to the NEC then Rimmers will take the kit to the show and that may be the same for the CS. To be honest, I'd go for the adjustable units which gives you a wide range of driving settings (good fun experimenting) and you do not have to be a racing driver to benefit from this conversion. Just my thoughts. Regards. Richard. Hi Richard , thanks for update , the rimmers non adjustable looks like the best option as have stand shocks on the front Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted September 15, 2016 Report Share Posted September 15, 2016 That's okay Paul. I also have standard shocks on the front. Regards. Richard. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul H Posted September 16, 2016 Author Report Share Posted September 16, 2016 That's okay Paul. I also have standard shocks on the front. Regards. Richard. Rear Bracket Conversion Kit with Gaz Shock Absorbers ordered from the Club Shop - Thanks for all the input - appreciated Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul H Posted September 17, 2016 Author Report Share Posted September 17, 2016 Just fitted the new universal joint but forgot to assemble as they came off, I had file marked the yoke and shaft . Should I leave as is or remove the one side and reassemble so the marks line up . I purchased the GKN universal joint with grease nipple , though it fouls , see pic. Can I purchase shorter or replace with surface mounted screw All advice welcomed Paul Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted September 17, 2016 Report Share Posted September 17, 2016 You need to remove it and fit blanking grub screw might be wrong but I sure there are very few drive shaft yokes that will accomadate a permanent greaser club shop says , ...dont forget the grub screw pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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