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Rear hub removal. Better done on or off the car?


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Hi All,


One of my winter jobs will be to take off the drive shafts from my non-roto Mk3 GT6 to change the wheel bearings and check out the state of the rear trunnions. My question is what is the best stage in the sequence for removing the hubs? The Haynes and Triumph workshop manuals (and the leaflet which comes with the hub puller from the club shop) all advise that the drive shafts come off the car first, and then having jammed the shaft in a vice you use the hub puller to get the hub off. Looking on the internet however every relevant video I find shows the hub being removed with the shafts still in-situ on the car and I have to say that this latter method look easier. Does anybody in the TSSC hive-mind who has already done this task have a view on the best approach?


The other query is whether or not people approve of using an electric impact wrench on the hub puller? Looking on the internet once again it appears that everyone using a Churchill style hub puller uses a power driven impact wrench to great effect. The guidance which comes with the club-source puller however explicitly advises that it should not be used in conjunction with power tools. Opinions? (obviously I accept liability for any injuries incurred by me using the hub-puller with a power tool attached!)



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I have a MK1 2L Vitesse and have removed the hub with the axle still on the car, just using non powered tools. Do the bolt in the hub puller as tight as you can, if the hub will not come off, then hit the hub puller on each side at the same time with two hammers should shock it free.




Leave the nut on the axle,but loose, or the hub can fly off as it comes free.





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Impact wrench is a no, no!

hub flange can be removed on or off the car, wind the puller up and walk away and leave it


you can knock the bearing and housing off with shaftnin a vice


there is a dimension in the manual about a preliminary depth to refit the bearing and housing

pretty much a waste of time , yoh do need to get the through to approx the right place and fitting the hub flange back on will reposition the hsg and back plate to makemthe shoes run centrally in the drum

there is no shoulder to locate the bearing/shaft locations, it relies on its press fit( knock it back on with a tube and copper hammer .


the needle end oil seal must face outwards, to stop debris working in not to stop grease escaping



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