Do I need a new rear vertical link

[Adrian]

Hello all

 

Sorry for the continued questions about bearings, etc, but it is a steep learning curve. But I've changed one side on my rotoflex (CV converted) Mk 3 and decided the change the other. When extracting the outer race I noticed it was quite easy to remove and as per attached photo the outside of the race is discoloured suggesting it has been rotating in the hub. In addition, the replacement was easy to seat and when the inner race was put in the outer race slid forward which in my uneducated mind suggests the hub is worn.

 

Short of getting an engineer to put a sleeve in or something I think I know the answer.

 

If so can you suggest a good quality supplier at a reasonable price - Rimmers seem v expensive.

 

Thanks

 

Adrian

 

 

[Guest]

Hello Adrian.

 

I am confident that the upright is now duff.

 

Have never seen this before, so it really is a gut feeling rather than anything more concrete than that.

 

Perhaps a decent 2nd hand upright may be  a possible answer ??

 

Worth giving Winns a buzz (in The Courier) very good at supplying such bits and prices are okay.

 

Good luck.

 

Richard.

[Clive]

It may be possible to use a bearing-lock product (think glue,but for this sort of application) or a "bodge" is to dimple the housing with a centre punch, creates small raised areas that may work. Or both.

 

Don't throw your upright away. It will be usable for somebody who is doing the "nick Jones" cv conversion where the housing is machined to take an mgf bearing.

[Guest]

Yes good call Clive - especially the NJ CV conversion - a current project for me as you well know !!

 

So, what's the likely cause of that bearing burn ?? Incorrect fitting / poor quality bearing face / out of true hub inner face / fleck of dirt within the hub & bearing face / perhaps a mixture of all the above ?? Sounds like a multiple choice question !!!!

 

From the photo, it does not look as though the burn is constant around the circumference of the bearing face.

 

Regards.

 

Richard.

[Pete Lewis]

https://www.bearing-king.co.uk/bearing/loctite-641-bearing-fit-10ml/3818  once this stuff goes off its darn near impossible to break its grab.

 

some of these products were used in manutacture by its not a bodge and is certainly a remedy to consider if thats the way you want to  repair .

many bearing are required to rotate  a little with drag and the forces imposed to change the loaded area of the race cups .

and to aid removal in service.

 

Pete

[Adrian]

Thanks for the replies so far. As to the cause I don't know, I've only had the car a year. Perhaps a historic problem or maybe an original casing error for part that required the bearing lock and a previous owner didn't use during a rebuild and consequently the rotation has exacerbated the movement. Thanks for the loctite recommendation I was looking at the loctite 638, both a lot cheaper that a new part! Cheers Adrian

[Pete Lewis]

I dont think triumph would have heard or used it , much of these products are a few years younger

but we used it on reconditioned gearbox cases and certain retention required units on truck production

 

we pioneered cassette oil seals and wear sleeves as standard OE fittments to extend life and aid serviceability. They are not bodges.