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Mixture on CD 150's


daverclasper

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Hi

 

Having a few issues with carbs at the mo which I'm trying to sus out and will prob go into more detail later.

 

Have to a 200 mile trip shortly which I'll take steady.

 

Plugs colour is a very pale grey, flakey coating which I think suggests weak mixture.

 

just wondering if this may cause over heating damage to pistons/valves.

 

Any help great please.

 

Cheers, Dave 

 

 

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Thanks Pete

 

No time before I do trip, to experiment with plug chops and haven't yet got a feel/ear for the lifting piston technique.

 

I was thinking maybe 1/2 a turn out out each mix screw to improve, or should I go more.

 

Concerned about pos damage to engine in short term, until I get time to mess about with it.

 

Cheers, Dave 

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1/2 turn is too much I would recomend 1/8 to 1/4 increments especially if its running pretty much ok

 

dont get paranoid about it, if its not misfiring or hic cups on accelerating dont worry too much

 

piston lift is not a dark art but its a small lift and listen to a hint of change

so if weak a 2mm lift will drop the idle by about 50 rpm rich will raise 50 rpm

If ok not much happens at all this small change only occurs for a few seconds with it idling

must have air cleaners on, pointless with them off.

So dont expect it to stall or race , its small quiet changes , it will do dramatic changes if you yank the piston up thats not the plan.

rise the pin till you just feel it touch the piston, then lift just a few mm.

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Air cleaners on? Never heard that before. Haynes shows it done with air filters off. Or is this an anomaly of CD150s as opposed to CDSE150s? Or am I confusing cleaners and filters? If so what are cleaners? So many questions!

 

Confused of Berkshire

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If you setup the mixture with the air cleaners not fitted when you refit them as they restrict the airflow the mixture would become rich. You remove them to balance the carbs. then refit and setup the mixture. Of course the air cleaners should not be blocked.

 

As I originate from Tunbridge Wells I must be disgusted(ing) from......

 

Dave

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i cant see why any book would advise setting things with the filters or cleaners or mufflers or ram stack sock being left off  but they do !!!!!

 

with carbs having lifting pins it easy , if they are nor seized up, any adjustments should be done in a as running condition, not have half the car missing.

 

emmission controlled carbs have them deleted  as they dont expect anyone to twiddle with the factory settings

same as blanked off idle screws etc.  of which most tamper proofing has long been ditched .

 

most people of our ages cant hear or detect the rev changes or feel the pin contact so ts all a waste of time 

 

worried from luton !!!

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Pete, mine are top adjusters so the needle and washer move up and down with....... adjustment. I don't see how I can flick the piston up, with the air filters on, if I don't have pins? Which is probably why I installed the vacuum gauge.

 

The great thing about Alzheimer, you are constantly meeting new friends and finding things you've done that show you how clever you are (were!).  :rolleyes:

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Yes Doug you cant do any of the pin lifting excercises

 

the top adjuster needle have a small plasticy washer at the head of the needle

If you pull the air piston assy out the std setting is this little washer sits up close to the base of the piston

 

im sure they will let you out to play if you're good

 

pete

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Thanks folks

 

Been giving the lifting pins another go.

 

Idling at about 8000 revs.

 

Twiddling about with slight, different setting of the mixture screws I think I can hear a change in revs up and down (and even staying the same!), though only for maybe a second and then then engine will stall. Is that supposed to happen? please.

 

Dave

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Hi

Did the 200 mile trip.

 

Did a couple of plug chops and enriched mixture, though only got a grey plug colour. Averaged 30mpg at probably an average of 50mph using overdrive.

 

Back in the city, did about 3 miles and looked at plugs, Very sooty and revs rising doing the lifting pin technique.

 

Also the mixture screws were both 5 and 3/4 turns down which seems excessive. 

 

Always been prone to this. Very heavy fuel fuel consumption in town if mixture set something like for cruising. That's why I replaced the parts mentioned above.

 

One thing, the points plate has only about 5mm vacuum movement at it's edge, due to the way it's been earthed, could be affecting mixture that much at idle?.

 

Any ideas please.

 

Cheers, Dave 

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The vac advance only gives better economy mainly when cruising , does affect acceleration , or performance in general.

 

plugs will always show a more sooty deposit in situation of lots of acceleration like town driving

the oil in the dash pot slows the rise of the piston and more fuel is pulled out the jet this would be the accelerator pump on a down draft carb, without it you will have a lot of flat spots when you open the throttles

 

what needles are fitted ??? Number and letters on the boss at the end of the needle

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6J is base  CD150 for GT6 and Mk1 Vitesse    ( thames barrier choke)

 

6AC for mk2 vit and GT6  which would have CDS  ( adds a choke valve)

 

But if you have CDSE  ( choke valve and temp compensators etc.  then the only spec shown is B5AJ   being a biased top adjust needle  and more inclined to 

 

remind me you dont have pancake air filters do you ???

 

Pete

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There are two needles for CDSEs on Mk3s, don't know the numbers but they are pre and aft engine number KE0000. There is also a third needle for pancakes. Rimmers sell all three. I know this because Rimmers stitched me up with a carb repair kit containing the wrong jets. :angry: 

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Hi.

 

No pancakes, standard filters and box. They are the Thames Barrier choke type, car Mk1 2Litre.

 

I will try setting again with lifting pin.  Is it just for a second that the revs will alter, and then back to normal or do something else if the pin is held up please?.

 

Got a feeling that if I get that right at idle it will not reach a brown plug colour at cruising, though it will probably not miss or hesitate.

 

Don't want to cause any weak running damage is main concern.

 

Thanks Dave

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You carefully lift the pin enough to just touch the underside of the air piston

 

Then lift it about 2 mm and hold it there

 

note the sensation of change which only lasts a few seconds, so you hear the short up speed , or a light falter, or if its right feel nothing

 

Its small lifts and small changes , or a hint of change , if rich a quick upspeed of around 50 rpm

 

 

if weak a short falter , and a small drop /hesitation

 

if you get the pin and just yank it up expect it to stop or misbehave

 

its very touchy feely

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