Froc Posted April 30, 2017 Report Share Posted April 30, 2017 Morning all. I am considering fitting a vacuum gauge to the Vitesse (Recent alternator conversion has made the Ammeter redundant, so am needing something to fill the hole in the dash!). My manifold take-off is already feeding my brake servo, so I was thinking of 'tee-ing' into the servo rubber pipe to feed the Ammeter. Has anyone done this (or similar?). Can anyone recommend a supplier of suitable tee-pieces? Thanks as always. Froc. Ps- I already have a Voltmeter fitted ???? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted April 30, 2017 Report Share Posted April 30, 2017 www.cbsonline.co.uk have a variety of tees The vac gauge line will need to be damped or you get needle vibrations with each piston suck normal to add a short bit of bundy and just squash with pliers till you steady the fluctuations pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Froc Posted April 30, 2017 Author Report Share Posted April 30, 2017 Thanks as always, Pete ???? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted April 30, 2017 Report Share Posted April 30, 2017 Froc. Pesonally. I would tap a new thread direct in to the inlet manifold; yes it will mean removing the manifold but I think it's a better option - sorry Pete !! Alternatively you can purchase specific spacers with vacuum taps that fit inline with the Stromberg's, if you have them ?? For example Speedograph: http://www.speedograph-richfield.com/html/vacuum_pipelines.html Regards. Richard. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dougbgt6 Posted April 30, 2017 Report Share Posted April 30, 2017 What?!! First, why on earth would you need to tap a new outlet?!! Second, my T piece in the servo feed connects directly to the gauge, no problem, it works fine. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted April 30, 2017 Report Share Posted April 30, 2017 In the end of the day it doesnt matter where in the manifold you desire to measure the vacuum its all down to preference and ease of installation just not from the dizzy supply as that works very opposite to manifold vacuum a reasonably set up engine will give 18 to 21 "hg at idle. pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dougbgt6 Posted May 1, 2017 Report Share Posted May 1, 2017 ..........for a 6 cylinder, 4 cylinder slightly higher at 22 hg, according to this. http://www.classic-cars-online.co.uk/Archive/vacuumgauge.html although it is an MG! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dave.vitesse Posted May 1, 2017 Report Share Posted May 1, 2017 Froc, You could replace the Ammeter with a Voltmeter. Dave Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted May 1, 2017 Report Share Posted May 1, 2017 Dave. According to Froc's first thread, it appears he has one of these in situ already. Regards. Richard. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted May 1, 2017 Report Share Posted May 1, 2017 Dave youre slipping... Froc says he has a voltmeter Ive got a parachute warning lamp but its too small for the hole ,,, one day there will be a use for it ??? how about Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dougbgt6 Posted May 1, 2017 Report Share Posted May 1, 2017 For a while I had both ammeter and voltmeter, they tell you different things. The voltmeter, the condition of your battery. The ammeter, the condition of your charging system. With voltmeter only, by the time you notice the voltage is dropping and your dynamo/alternator is failing, it's too late. There's not enough in the battery to get home! Unfortunately, my shunt ammeter failed, a matching Smith's gauge is no longer available and I really don't want ALL the current from the alternator in the loom behind the dash, it's warm enough in the GT6 as it is. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Froc Posted May 1, 2017 Author Report Share Posted May 1, 2017 Thanks for all the input on this Guys. Plenty for me to consider. Spacers are sadly not an option for me. My Vit has a 2000s manifold, SU's and K&N's. Clearance to the RH inner wheelarch is very tight, and spacers would push the manifold out too far. Glad to hear that Dougbgt6 is already running the setup I am considering. ???? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dougbgt6 Posted May 1, 2017 Report Share Posted May 1, 2017 Pete, surely the altimeter should be attached to the ejector seat? So the wife can tell how high up she is? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted May 1, 2017 Report Share Posted May 1, 2017 I sometimes wish she was 'High' Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dave.vitesse Posted May 1, 2017 Report Share Posted May 1, 2017 Sorry Re the Voltmeter, I need a new brain! Dave Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Froc Posted May 8, 2017 Author Report Share Posted May 8, 2017 Hi all. Just to follow up on this. I have now fitted the vacuum gauge, and it works a treat. I tapped into the brake servo (as per the pic I have tried to attach). Reinforced plastic pipe and Tee Piece from "Advanced Fluid Solutions" for less than a tenner! Their website is well worth a look, lots of useful stuff. Thanks again for all the input ???? Froc Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Froc Posted May 8, 2017 Author Report Share Posted May 8, 2017 Photo ???? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dougbgt6 Posted May 9, 2017 Report Share Posted May 9, 2017 Neat job Froc. Only thing I would say is when I fitted my new servo, (Lockheed same as yours) the instructions said to put a "U" bend in the vacuum pipe feed to the servo. This is a fluid trap and I guess only fills with fluid if something goes horribly wrong! In which case you'd probably have more important things to worry about. Works just as well without it. Just a thought. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted May 9, 2017 Report Share Posted May 9, 2017 just rebuilt ashley's 1300 tc servo. half full of brake fluid, a u trap would not have saved the internal hydraulic fluid leak Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dougbgt6 Posted May 9, 2017 Report Share Posted May 9, 2017 You're right Pete, that's just what happened to my original servo. However, the installation manual says put in a U trap so that's what I dun. My dad used to say "If all else fails, read the manual". Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted May 9, 2017 Report Share Posted May 9, 2017 as the hose is always on the suck from manifold vacuum most unwanted anything will end up in the engine as there's a rush or air down the hose every time you apply the brakes , I read about the U trap before but in real world cant see what it would catch its unlikely any petrol fumes will get to the servo or down its vacuum hose the air flow is always against it but then i always was a sucker !!! Im very pleased you like your U bend ha !! Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Froc Posted May 10, 2017 Author Report Share Posted May 10, 2017 Thanks fellas. I was aware of the U bend requirement but it was nigh on impossible to achieve in the available space. Had this setup for a year now with no problems, but I will have another think about the U bend. As an aside, after running with the vac gauge for a few days, I have decided I need to damp the airflow a bit (twitchy needle is irritating!). Going to fit an adjustable fishtank airline valve to the vac pipe at the weekend, which should do the trick. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted May 11, 2017 Report Share Posted May 11, 2017 It was common to just add a short bundy and crush it with pliers till the needle vibration damped out pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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