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Removal of Herald gearbox input shaft?


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Anyone know how to remove the input shaft from a Herald gearbox? The rear balk ring(?) snags on the lower layshaft gear and won't come straight out past it.

GT6 and Vitesse ones will pull straight out... but not the Herald.

I can't work out how to drop the lower gears to enable the input shaft to pull out over them, but that's the only way it will go... it can't go backwards.

post-151-0-02634800-1500802095_thumb.jpg

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Colin You need a dummy short shaft in the cluster to hold the needles in place and allows the cluster to drop

then the input will pass without snagging.

 

You can just pull the spindle out the cluster drops and all the needles fall out

 

then make up a dummy shaft to aid refitting

 

string or wire looped around the cluster to help lift it back up

 

check the spigot on the mainshaft and pull the 3rd 4th hub forwards check the 3rd gear cirlip is intact

on the mainshaft

 

pete

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Ok so I need a thingywiggle in the alterclip so the baltybangle will slide under the rumblycluster.

Speak slowly and remember you're talking to the uninitiated here. Formerly I just dug out a replacement gearbox from the spares pile. 

Start along the lines of: "Do you see the end of the input shaft? Well the bit under that is called...." and we'll work from there. Waits with bated breath.... like a coiled spring ready to go!

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Colin,

the dog teeth on the input shaft are normally bigger diameter than the gear , so to get the input shaft out you first have to tie drop the layshaft gear set cluster,

 

There is a long spindle that sits thro holes in the case one in the front face one in the rear face

 

this spindle needs to be lightly tapped out , generally rewards.

 

inside the gear clust is a approx 20+ needle rollers, if you just pull the spindle out

the rollers all fall about laughing, to avoid this most push a shorter shaft in to push the long one out

 

theres a length in the wsm but cant get mine just now

 

the cluster will drop into the bottom of the case , amd the input can be drifted out the front of the case

 

wjen the Ip shaft is removed you will see the bearing surface of the end of the maknshaft

this can degrade and easy to be scrapped if the needle rollers inside the IP shaft have worn out

 

the 3rd 4th hub is aloose fit on the main shaft , you cant remove it as fiited in the box but it will slide forwards , if you peer into the gap there is small wire cirlip holds the 3rd gear thrust washer amd gear on the shaft , these break and the gear will start to have lotes of end float

its worth looking having got this far.

 

Most manuals show the strip proceedures

The input shaft can be drifted out from a punch against the outer ring of the bearing, do not allow the punch to damage the chip shield , a thin tin disc which protects the ball race from debris

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just to add if your read the wsm backwards they say 1200-13/60 have bushes in the cluster so does not need a dummy shaft

every box be it 4 pot or 6 pot has always had  loose needle rollers ... a dummy shaft is 0.655" dia  and 5.5" long

 

there can be a spigot bolt to retain the shaft screwed in the side of the case ,, you dont tend to  get that with later or overdrive boxes

they have a spirol pin in the end of an extended shaft.

 

when the cluster drops the thrust washers should stay in place , if they drop a bit for refitting tickle them thro the  casing hole with a small screwdriver.  they have a tag which locates in a notch in the case to stop them rotating

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You just like to get me into trouble

The last trip, put the picasso into sick mode now scotland .....Hmmm

I would like to help Colin but thats stretching the good will a bit

 

he needs t o travel south and visit sunny luton

ryan air and gearbox as hand baggage

 

pete

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When I went to play music in warmer climes I always loosened the strings on the instruments and filled them full of socks and undies - well it saved on a suitcase.... wonder how many I could get in a gearbox housing?

 

Anyway first mistake on the gearbox was to treat it as two separate ends: I stripped off the rear housing and replaced the gaskets, speedo drive o-ring and bearings, before rebuilding it prior to starting on the front end. If it now needs to come off again to allow the shaft to be pushed backwards... it won't. Not with the tools I have anyway, to prevent damage to the alloy housing as it's pulled rather than hammered off. It seems to have gone on rather more tightly than it did before...

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Don't worry, I'm getting concerned at how slack they're becoming these days....

Anyway rear housing removed with the aid of a large wallpaper scraper.... (spread the force without marking the alloy) so back to not far off square 1.

I think the gearbox can lie in the boot of the car for a bit.... then when I 'accidentally' meet an expert on my travels I can just happen to remark that for some strange reason or coincidence, it's in the car with me if he wants to look at it...

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