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Motorlita steering wheel


AndyCrews

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I have a Motorlita wheel fitted to my 1979 Spitfire.

I bought this from the club shop and it came with a generic mounting boss. This works perfectly well, but does not have a Triumph logo.

I thought I would buy a boss from Motorlita and get the correct badge. The boss has arrived and won't fit. The splines seem to mate OK, but the base of the unit is too wide and fouls the steering column shroud.

Motorlita list two bosses for the Spitfire. The one I ordered is 48 spline diameter 19.04 mm. This is for 1979 on models. The other is for up to 1978 and has 36 splines, diameter 15.90 mm.

Can anyone tell me which size of spline my car should have? i have also asked Motorlita for their comments.

The club shop no longer stocks the wheels and can't help.

Thanks in advance for any assistance.

 

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I didn't know there were different sizes, but the column and switches may give you a clue.  Square switch house indicates later cars.

 

My approach would have been:

http://www.classicpartstrader.com/triumph-spitfire-vitesse-gt6-herald-tr6-tr7-gear-knob-motif---white-banner-1284-p.asp

The shop used to sell these but I can't find them listed.

C.

 

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Where is the ignition key, deep down under the dash, or up close near the steering wheel?

If the ignition lock is down under the dash then it's going to be the 36 spline shaft, if it's up near the wheel then it's going to be the 48 spline shaft.

The change was at commission number FH 100020.  But a previous owner could have fitted the other type of column.

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The inner column has a slide clamp to allow collapse on impacts,  although I have not checked its fitted to columns with a waso lock

Just below the end of the outer tube you should find the clamp plate with a central allen key stubby bolt

The outer is also moveable if you release its clamps ,  but with a steering lock all inner , outer and lock  assy plunger must all be in line or the Lock will jam or be inoperative, 

Pete

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When putting the clamp back together, it is VERY IMPORTANT to follow the correct sequence for torqueing it all up.

If you don't, then it can fail to operate properly in service - could work loose and the steering column pull out unexpectedly, or even loose steering control.

You also risk shearing the bolts if not done properly.

The factory manual is very specific about torqueing up this coupling.  The two 7/16" head bolts MUST be torqued first, followed by the central one.  If the outer two are loosened after the central one is torqued, then the load created by torqueing the central one (to a higher torque than the outer ones) is lost completely, which could lead to excessive movement in the joint.

The Spitfire manual says the following -
Quote
4. Offer up clamp halves to steering mast ensuring the straight member sits across the flat on the steering mast.
5. Engage bolts complete with spring washers.
6. Slide the clamp rearwards until it is against the steering mast housing. Ensure plastic thrust washer is located between clamp bracket and mast housing.
7. Tighten clamp bolts to 6 to 9 lbf ft (0.8 to 1.2 kgf m)
8. Tighten grubscrew to 18 to 20 lbf ft (2.5 to 2.8 kgf m)
9. Tighten locknut.
Unquote

If you undo the clamp, you MUST undo the grub screw. When you refit the clamp, you MUST tighten the clamp BEFORE tightening the grub screw to the correct torque. If you remove the clamp, and then just refit it then the torque loading on the grub screw will be totally inadequate and could result in poor steering control

It's all detailed in the factory workshop manual

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aldi are doing cheap metric spanner sets with many the same as AF , always worth a look 

if youre short on hand tools 

always remember the guys on the line building cars are semi skilled , with some guidance to perform , its never rocket science 

and thats Kevins trade     whoooosh   , kaboom    !

pete

 

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