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Vitesse Mk 2 Overdrive Relay


Paul H
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Paul.

Further to John's reply, the relay does not need to be in that location - you can reposition it accordingly.

If you intend to do a fair bit of rewiring, I would suggest using thin wall wire - it is thinner and yet carries a higher amp load compared to the standard wire you normally see in classic vehicles. 

Looking at your fuse box it is a mix of modern, old style and other connectors.

IIRC via a previous thread, you are looking to change the fuse box set-up ?? If so, you may want to consider using only one type of spade connector if only for cosmetic reasons and originality - if so the classic spade connector with the separate clear plastic sleeve is the way to go. It makes for a neat finish and I believe that the wire connection is more secure with the overlapping lugs on the spade rather than the modern crimping style type - I would also say the same for bullet connectors.

Just my opinion.

Regards.

Richard.

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2 hours ago, classiclife said:

Paul.

Further to John's reply, the solenoid does not need to be in that location - you can reposition it accordingly.

If you intend to do a fair bit of rewiring, I would suggest using thin wall wire - it is thinner and yet carries a higher amp load compared to the standard wire you normally see in classic vehicles. 

Looking at your fuse box it is a mix of modern, old style and other connectors.

IIRC via a previous thread, you are looking to change the fuse box set-up ?? If so, you may want to consider using only one type of spade connector if only for cosmetic reasons and originality - if so the classic spade connector with the separate clear plastic sleeve is the way to go. It makes for a neat finish and I believe that the wire connection is more secure with the overlapping lugs on the spade rather than the modern crimping style type - I would also say the same for bullet connectors.

Just my opinion.

Regards.

Richard.

Thanks Richard, especially the thin wall suggestion as had planned classic cable . First job before the big switch is to replace dynamo with an alternator .

Paul 

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Paul.

TBH, I would stick with the 6RA relay you have in the photo; albeit a new one.

You are not going to gain much space by going for a modern square relay; swings and roundabouts I guess.

Cannot be 100% certain but I think you will need a standard 5 terminal crossover (changeover) relay, which as mentioned earlier needs to be rated at 30A for the initial draw.

Regards.

Richard.

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9 minutes ago, classiclife said:

Paul.

TBH, I would stick with the 6RA relay you have in the photo; albeit a new one.

You are not going to gain much space by going for a modern square relay; swings and roundabouts I guess.

Cannot be 100% certain but I think you will need a standard 5 terminal crossover (changeover) relay, which as mentioned earlier needs to be rated at 30A for the initial draw.

Regards.

Richard.

I will relocate to gain some space. The relay is just 18 months old 

Paul

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Mine was fitted on the inside of the baulkhead, no idea why, it had OD as a factory option from new in 64.

the D type OD solenoid takes an intitial current pull of 10amp which if the solenoid is working correctly will reduce to a continuous

0.5 amps when its engaged , so when you flick the switch theres a good current spike for a few seconds.

Pete

 

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1 hour ago, Pete Lewis said:

Mine was fitted on the inside of the baulkhead, no idea why, it had OD as a factory option from new in 64.

the D type OD solenoid takes an intitial current pull of 10amp which if the solenoid is working correctly will reduce to a continuous

0.5 amps when its engaged , so when you flick the switch theres a good current spike for a few seconds.

Pete

 

Hi Pete , thanks for that. I will try to keep the relay in the engine bay for accessibility . The audible clicking I can hear on flicking the column stick is that from the relay or solenoid or both ?

Paul 

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7 hours ago, Paul H said:

The audible clicking I can hear on flicking the column stick is that from the relay or solenoid or both ?

Good question Paul, I'm inclined to think it is the relay located on the bulkhead as it is a lot closer to the ear in the driving position.

Regards.

Richard.

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16 minutes ago, classiclife said:

Good question Paul, I'm inclined to think it is the relay located on the bulkhead as it is a lot closer to the ear in the driving position.

Regards.

Richard.

Thanks for the info , another reason for keeping the relay as the audible click confirms the OD is working 

Regards

Paul 

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Dtype od must have a relay to pretect the column/or gear lever switch, wiring and switchgear

D types does take 10 amp to get the initial solendoid pull in there is a button switch in the end of the solenoid 

Which cuts this to 0.5 amp when the sol gets to the end of its stroke

 

A  J type OD does not need a relay it only  used 0.5 amp there is no pull in coil to load the current required

That why you need a relay   those reassuring clicks are your safety net.

Pete

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