SpitFire6 Posted August 15, 2018 Report Share Posted August 15, 2018 Hi, If somebody has their centre dash out: Can somebody tell me the inner distance between the vertical bars? I'm hoping that 141mm or less is the answer. I have a multi-gauge project I want to fit. Cheers, Iain. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SpitFire6 Posted September 28, 2018 Author Report Share Posted September 28, 2018 Hi, The plate that I have marked with a yellow scribble; is this bolted on or must be ground or bashed with a hammer to remove? Maybe a few spot welds?? I need to remove it. I do not care about losing the vent control as always on demist setting anyhow. Cheers, Iain. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin Lindsay Posted September 29, 2018 Report Share Posted September 29, 2018 You probably have an idea of what you want already worked out, but you can add additional gauges below without having to remove the slider controls. That bar is probably structural to some degree, even if only to support the dash or prevent flexing. I'll post a pic - blame an unfamiliar Epson camera for the blurring... but I have quite a few variations of multi-gauge options, taken at shows over the years. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SpitFire6 Posted September 29, 2018 Author Report Share Posted September 29, 2018 Hi Colin, My gauges & switches are all software derived and displayed on a touchscreen. The dimensions of the cutout required for the screen are: Mounting cutout, width 197 mm Mounting cutout, height 141 mm Overall depth 63 mm The heater flow control is removed on my car as I have never shut the coolant flow to the heater matrix in 30 years. I do have a small coolant pump on the return line that runs on ignition feed to boost the flow. The directional airflow is not a loss as I always have it on de-mist. Enough air leaks to warm the feet in winter. "That bar is probably structural to some degree, even if only to support the dash or prevent flexing." I see your point, but I need the screen to fit as I have a few grand of stuff that is interfaced to this Screen. I guess I will need to take the cracked top dash cover off and see if I can flatten the control mounting plate? Leaving it there with a slight curve should still provide strength. I really need to get rid of this "flap" of metal that will stop the mounting of the HMI. Cheers, Iain. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin Lindsay Posted September 29, 2018 Report Share Posted September 29, 2018 25 minutes ago, Spitfire6 said: Hi Colin, My gauges & switches are all software derived and displayed on a touchscreen. I like the sound of that!! Once you get it fitted, photos please! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SpitFire6 Posted September 29, 2018 Author Report Share Posted September 29, 2018 Thanks. It's a shame to flake the paint on the bracket, as it has no rust, but the finish is not a lot worse than the rest of the car. After I fit the HMI. The next minor problem is shoehorning the control box in. LOL. Cheers, Iain. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anglefire Posted September 29, 2018 Report Share Posted September 29, 2018 Iain, as another Controls engineer (Not automation/process but Building Management) I'm interesting in what you are using for your HMI. I'm also a lapsed licenced HAM (G7KOO) - which I really must get sorted especially as its free these days! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SpitFire6 Posted October 1, 2018 Author Report Share Posted October 1, 2018 (edited) Hi, I've got the Siemens TP700 to fit. Windows CE6.0. I have a USB GPS module, a WiFi/BT module, an SDR for radio & a USB multi-axis G sensor. WinCE software is plentiful. The PLC is a Siemens S7 1215 DC/DC. Local I/O is around 50 digital with 8 analogues I/O. The field, IP67, I/O is around 36 digital and 4 analogue, split across three Balluf Field devices. One at the front, one at the rear and one somewhere else if the local I/O is insufficient. It's all 24VDC powered of course. I have a few 12V to 24V Buck-Boost converters rated at 10 amps output. Most of my lights work between 9 to 28 volts so no need to interface. I've got loads of ULN200XA devices, so should only need a few relays to interface 12 to 24 and vice-versa. Before I can progress; I need to fit the HMI. Will it fit? Can I fit it? Cheers, Iain. Edited October 1, 2018 by Spitfire6 Added the accelerometer sensor 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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