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SpitFire6

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Everything posted by SpitFire6

  1. Hi, Why NGK BP5E? Is that the recommended for your engine? NGK BP5ES are available for £2.10 from https://www.gsparkplug.com/1x-ngk-copper-core-spark-plug-bp5es-6511.html
  2. Hi. Cable size. Could mean overall diameter or area (CSA). This was mentioned previously. The CSA (Area) only dictates the resistance of the cable/wire, nothing else. The insulation, proximity of other cables & maximum operating temperature dictate the maximum current during overload (Fuse type & rating important). Reduced Voltage drop is guaranteed if CSA is increased. Volt drop is inevitable. I think a 10% reduction is noticeable on lights/lamps. I would buy thin-wall wire/cable as it is possible to buy the same OD & have a higher CSA. If you drive your car in salt water, single colours are available in tinned copper. Cheers, Iain.
  3. SpitFire6

    TR6

    Try pulling the choke out/modulating to see if it runs better.
  4. Hi, Fitted the dual lights. Work OK I think. Cheers, Iain.
  5. Hi, That test might be too sensitive using a digital meter.
  6. Hi, if a standard battery is 60Ahr. You have about 720Wh when the battery Is fully drained & 144Wh available periodically without drastically decreasing the life of the battery. (You prolong the battery's life by not discharging below 80% SOC.) Leaving the headlamps on for an hour is around 100Wh. The car should be able to crank and fire after an hour. if the car will not crank the the battery is suspect. To crank and start the engine takes around 1Wh. An alkaline AA/pencel is around 3Wh. Cheers, Iain.
  7. Hi, I deleted the previous post as I now read as it starts at 14.5 & drops to < 12. The battery is dead. Cheers, Iain.
  8. Hi Mike, are you referring to the voltage dropping from 14 volts to 12.6 Volts? Or Are you talking about the voltage dropping from 12.6 Volts to a lower voltage? Cheers, Iain.
  9. Hi, My understanding is that when the battery has been fully charged & battery is connected the voltage falls quicker than with the battery left unconnected? You have tried to isolate all fuses with no success? As already mentioned, fit a low-wattage lamp between the battery terminal and clamp. If it does not glow I would not worry. Milliamps are nothing. The parasitic load could be something electronic you have added. Diodes or control if an alternator? A series connected milliammeter was mentioned. Cheers, Iain.
  10. Hi, It will drop from 14.5 to 12.6. You are at 13.27. No problem. 12.6 = 100% charged after resting. (Could be 12,4 to 12.8 depending on battery type) 1 volt less = 0% AKA Flat. (10.6 is dead & now with reduced life when recharged) 2 Volt more is fully charged & Charging. (14.4-14.8) Here is my battery voltage every 2 minutes. Wet type & seen better days. Cheers, Iain. ACU77L _Jan 2024_Report.xls
  11. Hi, Thanks for the advice, I tried googling for MK2 saloon rear lights & ANG sells them. When I emailed and asked the question they said they are twin terminal only. I noticed the plastic part looks the same on all holders so I took a contact of a spare single filament holder & bent it so it would fit a dual type. Works OK. Cheers, Iain.
  12. Hi, Trying to find a supplier that sells the three terminal lamp holders? (Left picture) I have seen many suppliers sell brake/tail lamp holders but I can not tell from their pictures if they are three terminals or not. Thought I would ask before contacting the suppliers. Cheers, Iain.
  13. Hi, Try closing the flow of coolant to the heater matrix. It will raise the engine coolant temperature. Cheer, Iain.
  14. Hi, It's the 3rd thermostat I have fitted over the last few years (88c). The last one is the proper one with metal/plastic jiggle? pin. I bought it from Mini Sport as it was cheap and a 5-minute walk from my house. Cheers, Iain.
  15. Hi, Golf GTI radiator. Temperature is monitored on CanBus. It's also the 2nd sensor as thought it might be faulty! Cheers, Iain.
  16. Hi, Many years ago I made my housing with an external EWP & external three-port thermostat. The hoses looked kak but worked well until the JB-Weld failed after 2-3 years. Went back to the standard water pump & 88 thermostat. The Electric Water Pump (EWP) had a problem with the heater flow as the return of the heater had to be before EWP was a mess. My original post is because my coolant temperature is less than 80 at a high vehicle speed with an 88 stat. I also wanted to add a 300-watt coolant preheater. Thanks, Iain.
  17. Hi Johny, et al. Thanks. So the small single port/tube connects the outlet from the head back to the suction side of the pump. If there is never an external flow out of the head, circulation is ensured through the head via this port? Cheers, Iain.
  18. Hi Johny, Are there two ports in the housing? One at the top & one at the bottom as shown in your picture? Thanks, Iain
  19. Hi Jonny, the pump inlet/intake is only available on the bottom hose & the fitting on the side that has the pipe connection. Apart from bypassing the head, maybe the port is an air bleed? Cheers, Iain.
  20. Hi all, Yes, that is the little port I thought I had noticed last time I changed the housing. I am not sure what it does when the thermostat is closed but when the stat is open it must allow some cooled coolant to bypass the head/heater? Cheers, Iain.
  21. Hi Johny, Looks like I will have to remove the thermostat to check there is no port. No big deal. If there is a port it is getting plugged! Cheers, Iain.
  22. Hi Johny, my bypass is from the rear of the head through the heater to the suction point of the pump. It can never be throttled. I never saw a need to be able to control flow through the heater so I deleted the valve and control decades ago. I use the cabin heater blower-fan to control heat. So the pump housing has a port between the inlet & outlet? Cheers, iain.
  23. Hi, Does the GT6 water pump housing have a cast-in port to allow coolant to bypass the cylinder head? Cheers, Iain.
  24. Some details: https://www.canleyclassics.com/?archive=rotoflex-chassis-dimensions
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