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electric fan


david lewis
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Hello David.

 

The attached should assist and this is what I did for the electric fan installation on my Mk2 Vitesse.

 

I have covered over a thousand miles since installation, including south of France in mid summer without a problem. 

 

Ensure you really give the coolant system a superb flush, even twice if necessary - especially the heater matrix. It will pay dividends in the long run.

 

It's personal choice if you have the fan permanently live or only when the ignition is on. Mine is the latter.

 

Regards, 

 

Richard.

Electric Fan Conversion Diagram.pdf

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David.

 

I should have mentioned that I use a 120w fan.

 

Remember that on start up the fan will draw a higher amperage, compared to its normal running amp requirement.

 

As you can see I have used a 20amp in line fuse with this fan.

 

Hope that helps ??

 

I'm sure you will have shed loads of useful comments on this thread.

 

If you send me your PM address I can send you an article I wrote about the installation; which also includes some other aspects of note during the conversion. I cannot attach it via the PM option on this forum page.

 

There is no doubt I have noticed a much better / smoother performance since installation. Although the original fan was a plastic unit, it still robs bhp - I hate to think how much a metal fan robs !!

 

Regards.

 

Richard.

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There's a simple calculation when decided what rated cable and fuse to use on any electrical installation, Watt divided by Voltage, therefore if your fan was say 120w, divided by 12v gives 10amp (in reality you'd probably want a 15amp), if it were on a 24v installation then it would be 5amp, you get the idea.

 

There are definitely 2 camps on whether electric fans are a good modification or not. I went to electric, but have now gone back to mechanical. There's an interesting article on the Canley's website:

 

http://www.canleyclassics.com/technical-archive/overheating

 

Personal choice at the end of the day.

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The CC article raises some valid points and of course priority one must be that your cooling system is running freely and operating properly for everything else to perform it's job properly.

 

Even small things like a rad cap that is nearing its lifespan end can have an effect on the cooling efficiency. I have just replaced mine with the rubber gasket top & bottom of the rad cap as this ensures a good seal.

 

I run a 50/50 anti-freeze mix in the car.

 

The placement of the fan is critical - I am no fan (excuse the pun) of front mounted fans; on the Vitesse it's academic as there is no space between bonnet & rad when the bonnet is down (in standard format).

 

I use a 12" fan on the rad and it fits perfectly.

 

Of course "we" are not all rushing around the African continent and quite often have to endure slow moving traffic which a normal fan will deal with (JUST) provided everything else is working efficiently. But an electric fan will cool your rad down a lot quicker and more efficiently at crawling speed.

 

An additional bonus (not often noted / considered) of an electric fan between the rad & engine is that it moves the air within the engine compartment as it pulls the air through the rad. Agreed the air is hot, but the fact that it is moving & circulating it will in itself have a cooling effect. Every degree counts. 

 

As Darren says, it's personal choice.

 

Regards.

 

Richard.

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Fitted an electric fan to my MK1 2L Vitesse some years ago. Live wire straight from battery positive terminal through a fuse to the relay. Supply to switch relay from ignition switch, also fitted override switch and warning light to show when fan is running. Fan is fourteen inch with Revotec adjustable controller in bottom hose, to fit the fan I used stainless threaded bar through the radiator with sleeving to protect the rad tubes.

 

Regards

 

Paul

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  • 4 weeks later...

hi all ,

I have fitted the accuspark fan kit to my13/60 and have wired it direct from the battery to the thermo switch without a relay as directed by accuspark--I did phone them to check and they say a relay is not needed but I have my doubts so I am going to fit a relay before the thermo switch.

is there some where in the engine compartment where I can pick up a ignition controlled feed or do I have to run a wire to the ignition switch.

the fan is set to come on at 95c and seems to run a lot but the car does not seem to overheat.

cheers

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Hello David.

 

Good to hear it's going well.

 

1. I would most definitely fit a relay, it's good common sense.

 

The diagram I attached earlier in the thread will certainly keep you in the right direction.

 

2. The fuse bank on the bulkhead (presume you still have that) has a set of ignition controlled connectors and the other side is live all the time; provided the battery is connected.

 

As such you can pick a feed up from the ignition controlled fuse bank side. You will find a couple of spare ones there if not already used. 

 

This is a much simpler contact point than taking a lead from the ignition switch IMHO.

 

3. If the fan is doing its job and the coolant is behaving then, then keep with that.

 

Regards.

 

Richard.

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thanks Richard,

I do not have a fuse bank on my 13/60 as far as I can see--the only live point that I can find connected to the ignition circuit is to the coil.

I am going to use the excellent diagram you posted to wire up the relay when I can wire it into the ignition as at the moment the fan keeps on running after the engine is switched off.

cheers

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further to my last post the only ignition on live feed I can find in the engine compartment is to the coil--would connecting the relay to the live side of the coil cause any problems?

any electrical geniuses out there.

cheers

if your using the coil feed to switch the relay only, that should be fine. Run a fused permanent live feed from the the live side of the solenoid or direct from the battery to power the fan.

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