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Adding a header tank.


haggis

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Hi all, just wondering if there are benefits in adding a header tank to the cooling system on my Gt6? I have a Nissan micra one that fits perfectly to the bulkhead, but I’m aware the original set up only had an expansion bottle which I assume is perfectly adequate in most cases. 

If you have added a header tank a pic of the setup would be really useful, especially radiator end. 

Thanks

hag 

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P1030445.JPG

I posted this pic recently, in a thread about an oil cach tank, but it also shows my expansion tank.    It's immediately behind the bonnet support tube, on the bulkhead.   The radiator is a Hinda Civic R one, with a different  site for the top hose, hence the revised connection to the fabricated thermstat cover.

Does that help, Haggis?

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Hi john, I’m just coming out of a vw golf rad conversion which is similar to yours , , , ,going back to a normal set up as I squeezed some funds for an alicool Rad and just wondering if it’s worth keeping the header and incorporating into new system.

What’s the small pipe hugging the back of the rad on your picture? 

Thanks

hag 

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It's a conduit for the wiring to the electric water pump.   Keeps it neat, out of the way of fans etc, and with a multiway connecor at each end just unplugs if the rad needs to be removed.  The lugs built into the rad made it easy to fit, using J-clips.

J.

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I am not convinced there is a big advantage over using the overflow bottle and a cap that allows coolant to be sucked back as it cools.

However, my cars DO run modern expansion tanks, with a takeoff at a high point (thermostat housing in my dolomite, and same on my zetec powered spitfire ) and a large 5/8 hose Teed into the bottom rad hose. This circulates coolant (and any air) through the header tank. On your car you could use a "seal cap" to replace the std rad cap, and use the overflow outlet to feed the top of the expansion tank. Though in a GT6 taking from the thermostat housing or both would be better. Highest point and all that....

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The advantage that I can see is that all the system is under pressure with a head tank where as an overflow bottle means on cooling everything is under a slight vacuum. I think this is better because it seems to be hard to prevent or find vacuum leaks which then allow air to get drawn in rather than coolant.  Of course when this happens the system loses level and the first indication is a heater that stops working....

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is it plumbed into the cooling system (apart from the rad neck)? If the bottom rad hose that is ideal.

The rad will need a seal cap, not a normal one. Or rip the innards out of the normal cap.... It just wants to seal at the top of the neck, so coolant can always flow out of the neck take-off to the expansion tank.

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That looks good but as Clive says the radiator cap will need to be modified somehow to have a rubber seal at the top rather than base (that one is now redundant) so that it doesnt leak under full system pressure as originally it was only designed for a slight vacuum as the system cooled.

Also the cap itself is going to be exposed to more force now as its area under pressure is greater than that of the smaller hole it used to seal.......

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