Danherald79 Posted March 30, 2019 Report Share Posted March 30, 2019 Hi everyone, I am new to triumph’s and have an issue with my rear wheels. They sit in at the top and have a really bad camber. Ideas please? Wasn’t sure if it’s the leaf springs, trunion bushes or if it has all been tightened up in the air not sitting under load. Any help would be great 👍🏼 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted March 30, 2019 Report Share Posted March 30, 2019 A few ideas thats correct its out at the top is normal unladen Manuals give poor specs , but 2deg + - 1deg is in haynes , doesnt say if this is per side or included angle My Triumph manual does not quote camber only spring data , not really helpful. Incorrect excess rear toe will jack up the camber when driving forwards They were designed with awful unladen rear camber , so they do \---/ not |--| a lowering block between diff and spring will improve the cosmetics Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johny Posted March 30, 2019 Report Share Posted March 30, 2019 is that after its been jacked up and lowered back onto the ground or is it always like that? On another topic it looks like your wheel bearings might have received a lot of grease sometime and theres a risk it has also pushed out inside the drum brake assembly where it can contaminate the brake shoes. Worth removing the drums to check...... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danherald79 Posted March 30, 2019 Author Report Share Posted March 30, 2019 58 minutes ago, johny said: is that after its been jacked up and lowered back onto the ground or is it always like that? On another topic it looks like your wheel bearings might have received a lot of grease sometime and theres a risk it has also pushed out inside the drum brake assembly where it can contaminate the brake shoes. Worth removing the drums to check...... It’s always like that! I will check rear drums 👍🏼 Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danherald79 Posted March 30, 2019 Author Report Share Posted March 30, 2019 59 minutes ago, Pete Lewis said: A few ideas thats correct its out at the top is normal unladen Manuals give poor specs , but 2deg + - 1deg is in haynes , doesnt say if this is per side or included angle My Triumph manual does not quote camber only spring data , not really helpful. Incorrect excess rear toe will jack up the camber when driving forwards They were designed with awful unladen rear camber , so they do \---/ not |--| a lowering block between diff and spring will improve the cosmetics Pete I will take a look at a lowering block, is that between the leaf spring and diff? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted March 30, 2019 Report Share Posted March 30, 2019 Yes , available in 1/2" 3/4" 1" Do check the toe in does the camber vary if you go backwards then fwd. Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johny Posted March 30, 2019 Report Share Posted March 30, 2019 yes as Pete says they are a machined ally block that comes in different thickness (the deepest require longer studs to be used) that fit between the top of the diff and the leaf spring. http://www.jamespaddock.co.uk/rear-spring-lowering-block-12-mk3-driveshafts-2 As the spring sits higher the halfshafts point more upwards so giving the wheels more negative camber. However its unusual to need one as the spring flattens with use and wheel camber is good so maybe yours is very new, is the wrong one or has been installed incorrectly..... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clive Posted March 31, 2019 Report Share Posted March 31, 2019 11 hours ago, Danherald79 said: Wasn’t sure if it’s the leaf springs, trunion bushes or if it has all been tightened up in the air not sitting under load. Possible any or all 3. I think before fitting anything new, I would be checking the above. Trunnions really need the spring eye bolt removing so you can check it isn't seized. Assuming they are all good/moving, then do the final spring eye bolt tightening with the car on ramps/jack under the shaft so it is at ride height. Then you need to check rear toe, there are several threads on how to do this at home to a good level of accuracy. If all that checks out it must be the spring has too much arch or is too strong. (although I once had a shock absorber on a spitfire that was acting as a very strong spring, no idea what had happened to that) You could be radical and take a leaf out, or an old trick was to turn on of the leaves upside down (can't remember which one) However, that also reduces spring strength, so if you carry rear passengers that may not be great. So then there is the lowering block. If all else fails looks like a 1" block will be required along with longer studs, or as I did as space was tight, I got some bolts. But remember, always check/adjust rear toe after that sort of work. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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