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Octane boosters


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I agree with Pete.

If you feel the urge to spend then Ethanolmate would be a decent call to combat potential ethanol issues: https://www.flexolite.co.uk/item.asp?iID=130

Unless you are driving at high speed for long distances, or using revs in excess of 6K on a regular basis then valve seat recession is minimal to say the least; as the cylinder head will have "lead memory" and deal accordingly.

If you are concerned about valve seat recession, then Castrol Valvemaster is an option.



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2 minutes ago, Gadgetman said:

Trouble is I’m running 10:1 compression and can’t stop it pinking under load no matter what I do with mixture and timing!!!

In that case this is probably your answer when used with 97/99Ron fuels - 99 is available at Tesco and very well priced


The early P6 Rover 2000TC cars ran the same compression and pinking was an issue - my comment is one that the Rover P6 Club endorse to get over the pinking issue.

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Do you have the correct dizzy in situ ??

The reason I ask, is that speaking recently with Martin the Distributor Doctor he mentioned that quite often having the incorrect dizzy in situ is the problem. By this he says not the dizzy spec but the actual dizzy number stamped on the dizzy body.

It may be worth checking that number and dropping him an email to ascertain if you do have the correct unit fitted.

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I'd still drop him an email.

I presume your "yup" is yes you do have the correct dizzy number as specified in the WSM ??

A friend of mine had the same issue in his Sunbeam Alpine - CR not quite 10.1 but it turned out that a PO had fitted the correct type dizzy but the spec was incorrect. When we cross referenced it with Martin, it turned out to be an Austin 1800 Low Compression dizzy !! Fitted the correct spec and no more pinking.

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I think you will need to modify the distributor advance curve, as your compression and presume cam are not what the distributor was designed for. 

BUT you said no matter what you do to timing it still pinks? even if you retard the ignition to TDC?? 

My Toledo ran a 1500 engine at 10:1 and a warm cam. I took a while playing with the distributor to get it correct. But a shortcut is to take it to a good rolling road who are able to map a curve for you. Or better fit a programmable/mappable ignition which makes it much easier to do yourself.

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