Steve P Posted August 11, 2019 Author Report Share Posted August 11, 2019 Thanks,obviously i don`t have the car here but i wanted to check the design of the rad filler to make sure it does not block off the expansion outlet with the cap on. S Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johny Posted August 11, 2019 Report Share Posted August 11, 2019 well the cap should seal in two places, the inner lower hole below the overflow which is closed off by the spring loaded part of the cap and the top outer lip (this isnt subjected to much pressure but must seal to allow the vacuum generated in the rad on cooling to pull the coolant back from the overflow bottle). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted August 11, 2019 Report Share Posted August 11, 2019 But the gauge has never indicated any overhear , the expansion bottle is of little consequence If they have any experience the gasket will give its failure , heat, loose or whatever To fail enough to load a cylinder with coolant is pretty obvious its let go , loose being the obvious ,as the coolant has to get from the Jacket ports and then past the fire rings and little to do with the cooling system Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johny Posted August 11, 2019 Report Share Posted August 11, 2019 but surely if during warm up for some reason the excess coolant from system isnt released by the cap to the overflow the pressure built up could blow a head gasket with no overheating necessary? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted August 12, 2019 Report Share Posted August 12, 2019 Well my thoughts are coolant pressure maybe 13psi combustion pressure in the 1000s no contest . Combustion pressure can overcome the fire rings..... coolant ...never as a initial failure Head gaskets mostly fail due to a product problem or its not clamped down , Recessed /non recessed tend to fail on the driveway not after a few hundred miles this has all signs of it never achieved its head clamping force ..... You used ARP Bolts have you checked they have not had a hydraulic lock in the block or have bottomed out Seems a reasoned explanation std studs have a slot in the thread to allow any oily stuff to escape Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johny Posted August 12, 2019 Report Share Posted August 12, 2019 youre probably right Pete but it is possible for the coolant pressure to go higher than this due to the expansion of water on initial heating (and freezing of course) if the cap doesnt open correctly to discharge the excess.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted August 12, 2019 Report Share Posted August 12, 2019 yes it can if not controlled rise to much higher but nowhere near what the Bang produces 20psi in the water jacket wont blow the fire rings out as they are supposed to be sandwiched between head and block and held pretty rigidly any ideas the coolant system caused this is a red herring Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johny Posted August 12, 2019 Report Share Posted August 12, 2019 well Steve, then that only leaves air in the system to explain why the overflow bottle never worked properly.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve P Posted August 12, 2019 Author Report Share Posted August 12, 2019 The verdict today from the engine shop.. They had it running on the rolling road for 45 minutes,smoking badly. He said it had far too much advance set at all revs,along with being way too rich at tickover going too lean after that. He thinks one of the ring lands may have gone so it basically needs a strip and possibly a new set of pistons and a hone. Oil issue due to blowby. Gutted.(note to self,do not do first starts on the drive). I will get a cost and decide whether to offload it. S Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted August 12, 2019 Report Share Posted August 12, 2019 So how did the coolant get in the cylinder ???? Nothing to do with advance or mixture settings Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve P Posted August 12, 2019 Author Report Share Posted August 12, 2019 He said the head bolts were 30% down on torque settings from where they should have been which probably caused it to fail,hard for me to contest that as i didn`t re-torque them. Steve Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted August 12, 2019 Report Share Posted August 12, 2019 I dont think there is a scheduled retorque in any triumph manuals Whilst many do this but its not obligatory This can depend on the type of gasket used but if at max 48lbft less 30% its at 33lbft thats loose !! Thats a lot of relaxation for a few hundred miles A double skin copper can crush down where as a klinger(black) type does not Sorry my view sticks with it was never pulled down correctly from day one Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johny Posted August 12, 2019 Report Share Posted August 12, 2019 That sounds like a very low torque if they were done to the correct figure on rebuild. Also did they explain to you about retorquing after the engine had been run? I would have thought they would have wanted you to come back for them to do it.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted August 12, 2019 Report Share Posted August 12, 2019 Very Yes Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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