Chris Bracey Posted December 7, 2019 Report Share Posted December 7, 2019 Hi. If I fitted a hardtop would that help keep the door gaps if a removed a door and repaired the sills? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clive Posted December 8, 2019 Report Share Posted December 8, 2019 Assuming a spitfire/gt6, then yes, a hardtop is a help. I would also suggest making a brace. Could be something as simple as a length of angle iron welded inside the car to the a and b posts, or make something that attaches to hinge attachment point, or other such position. Or the club sells an adjustable bar that clamps to the lip around the door aperture. Important to check gaps carefully before final welding. And remember usually gaps at the top of the b post close up a smidge when the car is down on the ground. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Bracey Posted December 8, 2019 Author Report Share Posted December 8, 2019 Hi. I have the rear of the spitfire 1500 jacked up to change a drivers side rear shocker and generally clean around. The car is jacked under chassis which looks very sound but I note the door is now firmly against the b post so I have not attempted to move it. I have assumed it caused by twisting effect of hacking up a corner of the chassis? Is it normal that should happen. The floors all look good but there is some filler at the very rear of the sill. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin Lindsay Posted December 8, 2019 Report Share Posted December 8, 2019 It will flex to a small extent but any large movement is not good - what condition are the sills? These are the seriously structural parts of the body and if you reckon from your first post yours need work then be careful with the gaps - as with any car bodywork, it's not the rust you can see but what's in behind. As Clive says I'd brace the gaps; a Spitfire hardtop isn't as structural as a GT6 roof and will probably only support or brace a certain amount, so I wouldn't rely on it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Bracey Posted December 8, 2019 Author Report Share Posted December 8, 2019 Hi colin . It's only enough flex to hold the door but I am not brave enought to test the extent . In fairness it còuld be the top hinge pin that was letting the door drop a little when you open it. Just enough to clunk on shutting the door. I think the sills could be original looking at the blanking plates at the front and spotselds but from years back on my 1963 spitfire 4 in the 1970s rust at the back of the sill meant the inner was totally shot. On the inside the floor looks solid but I might make up a gap brace so I can poke about . Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin Lindsay Posted December 8, 2019 Report Share Posted December 8, 2019 Have a quick look from the inside - lift the carpets along the inside edges and shine a torch in. They're easy to get at and, if any good, rustproof them asap so that they'll last longer. Don't rustproof them if you're going to do work even in a month / year or two as your welder won't thank you for it! Been there... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted December 9, 2019 Report Share Posted December 9, 2019 yes worth some precaution i remember servicing my bank managers Standard 10 the jack point was through a hole in the floor inside at the B post,, well the floor came up, the car didnt i dare not ask for an overdraft , had to timber and bottle jack the floor down from the roof and he sold it quick i got him a Avenger on staff discount to recoupe creadability Ha ! pays to be careful Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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