Gadgetman

Looks like the culprit is a poorly machined counterbore face.... Judder marks causing the joint not to seal! It leaves the judder impression on the pipe end! I’ve tried a pipe made from copper to no joy so now I’ve tried loctite 592 thread sealant as a last resort otherwise the caliper is going back to Moss!

Colin, it’s leaking around the tread, see attached picture the caliper is imperial as is the pipe end it must seat onto the bottom of the caliper female orifice / threaded hole otherwise it won’t seal at all

I've put new type 16 calipers on with new pipes. one caliper leaks slightly (just damp) where the brake pipe screws in. I've replaced the pipe and cleaned out the hole in the caliper but the new pipe leaks also. It looks like there are still machining / judder marks on the mating face in the caliper....is there a re-facing tool to cut a smooth face is there a seal / o ring you can get to put in the caliper female thread to help seal it? I see frosts sell a brake pipe thread sealant but I'm reluctant to use that.

Whichever way it goes it never goes where I expect ! I’ve a supply of soak up to clear up the mess afterwards! 😂

😂

Has anyone any words of wisdom on installing dished core plugs(Apart from hit it with a hammer) plugs as mine just blew out!

Also fitted Jigsaw cam followers with the hole in the side to help with cam lobe lube

Yup lots of oil and cam lube used along with Graphogen on the journals and rocker shaft during assembly!

What’s people’s thoughts on running an engine after a complete re-build, ie new can, followers , rebored etc etc. I’ve primed the galleries using a drill down the distributor hole to spin up the oil pump, got good oil pressure. No leaks. I’ve heard some say run it at 2000 rpm for 20 mins to bed the cam in. Some say don’t bother just take it out for a drive. I’m aware triumph didn’t take much care with new engines but after lots of £ going into this one I want it to be bedded in correctly. what’s the opinions from those that have been here before?

It didn’t sell because I forgot to bid on it!

If you want a new spring get one from Canley’s as mine was excellent quality and made in the UK

I’ve 2 spare already !

With the front bolt removed the arm sits flat against the vertical link so I’ve added 0.162” of washers to front and rear bolts between the vertical link and the arm, that will do nicely... new high tensile bolts with the correct grip length ordered as well

Great thanks i’ve plenty of hard steel washers so will “ shim as required”

Any pictures or dimensions of the spacer. I assume it’s on both bolts on the arm?

I was thinking the same. It’s interesting the front bolt is exactly the right length ( one thread protruding through the nut) without the spacers though so a longer bolt is needed!

Nope no spacers.... I’ve checked the mk3 GT6 manual as well and there’s no reference to them.

Brackets cut and adjusted.. looks good now!

I’m after a 6 tooth but have one I could swap over if needed also has anyone come across this with grease Le track rod ends, it hits the disk and is a larger diameter than the standard ones! back to the non grease’abl type... I had one new old stock Lockheed hidden away at the back of a cupboard!

I think I’ve read it in the courier

🤣👍

Clive I could swap my pinion over if you do have one?

Hi Pete Yes it has the nylon plug. I just fitted a new one as the old one was missing!

It’s on a 1600 Vitesse but yes I’ve already made new rigid lines to the front of the turrets 👍

Now that’s another issue... it’s a 6 tooth pinion but it has no groove!