Gadgetman

Could be Pete. I’ll try and find some washers or shims that will go between the nut 33 and item 34 to get the rack travel correct. Uggg I wish I’d just bought a recon rack!

Thanks Paul thats a lot shorter than mine..... so much for pattern parts! time to do a bit of cutting and bending...!

More issues. Once I've set the jam nut 33 to the dimensions given in the manual (step 1)I I cant screw the the ball joint on far enough to hit the jam nut as the thread on the rack (32) bottoms out in nut (34) Anyone any ideas ????

Paul its the lower bracket on the caliper I’m after where the rigid line from the caliper joins the hose. thanks

Does anyone have the dimensions of the mk2 Vitesse Type 16 Caliper hose brackets as the stainless ones I bought cause the hose to foul on the spring at full lock? Or Has anyone got a pair of the hose brackets that are spare that they want to sell ?

There is a conflict in the Vitesse manual for the end gap on the steering rack (A-A in the picture & text) is the gap meant to be 1/8” or 1/4”?

Can you get the engine side panels fitted with the engine in? I’ve got mine removed whilst the engine is out and I’m thinking it would be a lot easier to fit the engine with them removed and fit them after the motor is back in.

Those dimensions just about work perfectly, I’ll get some mini shims and give it a go, thanks 👍

Pete no more shins tightens it up as the shims go under the base of the cup not under the tab washer

Has anyone rebuilt a rack recently? ive just fitted new ball end cups and without any shims 26 fitted it locks up when the end (39) is tightened Down onto the nut (34). The only way round it is to lap a few thou off the new ball joint plastic end of the cup (37) on emery paper so that I get the required 1 1/2 lb pull off on the end of the rod (38)? anyone else had the issue??

I would thoroughly recommend coating all the bearing surfaces with Graphogen http://www.graphogen.co.uk/ to help with the initial start up but use cam lube ( https://rimmerbros.com/Item--i-RX1358?gclid=CjwKCAjw7-P1BRA2EiwAXoPWA3H5MkqGqisfrfPG0uTOZsUuIIkTkSJgSFbXWJKmt9KX_OGjXoSGCRoCcE8QAvD_BwE ) on the lobes and followers. Get yourself a set of bottle brushes from frost restoration as well to get to those bits that hide the dirt! https://www.frost.co.uk/engine-brush-set/ You will need a decent Dial gauge and magnetic base for crank end float and cam timing (finding TDC with the head off, plenty on fleabay) along with a degree disc (I printed mine out and stuck it to cardboard) If all else fails take a look at this series on you tube, he goes through a Triumph six rebuild step by step. If nothing else, clean the engine out like its a hydraulic system, any trace of dirt or grit can wreck all your hard work............

Take a look at Chris Witors site, he has some good picks I followed with mine https://www.chriswitor.com/cw_technical/Inlet Flow.pdf

it certainly seems like a simple pressing to get re-made, Once my lathe at work is wired up (we have moved recently) I might have a go at making a punch and die set to stamp them out of stainless...

Colin, here's a picture of them. Ian

Does anyone know a source for the front axle dust shields(138559) I can’t find a pair anywhere!

How is the track arm / ball pin inner joint under the bellows effectively greased, do you need to strip it, clean grease and reassemble ?

What grease are people using in their steering racks? The manual quotes Retinax A which I think is now called Shell Gadus S2 but do people just use good old Castro’s LM grease???

👍 old school that’s me!

It’s a HB gearbox so an early square flange one Yup Pete copper washer & thread sealant fitted on the bottom bolt unlike the previous person who put it together... it was on the top left bolt!!! I wondered why it dripped oil new oil seal also fitted just Incase! luckily I got an original Borg & Beck clutch kit from Beaulieu Autojumble a few years back and the release bearing is 19mm. i also converted from the crank scroll seal to lip seal and fitted a SKF speedy sleeve over the old scroll grooves to give a good surface for the seal to run on.

Thanks Guys much appreciated, all fitted and ready to join to the engine.

Thanks guys i wonder what the steel one is from?????

I’m converting a 1600 clutch to the later 2lit re style, the flywheel is all done and I’m putting it back together but I’ve got 3 different throw out / release bearing carriers and I only know that the one on the left is from a 1600, can any one shed any light on which one is for a 2ltr Vitesse????

Hi Colin thats the wrong stud unfortunately . That one is the down pipe to manifold not the intake to exhaust manifold. Also I’m going for stainless as it doesn’t corrode like the mild steel ones do., no real issues with Strength in this location

Does anyone know the thread / dimensions for the stud that goes in the exhaust & inlet manifold on a Vitesse ? part # 129619 seems to be no longer available and I want to make a stainless one it looks like 3/8 unc at one end and 3/8 unf the other but I haven’t got a 3/8 unc tap by at home to check

Try Peterborough Cylinder Heads. They did a great job of mine and let me order the inserts & valves from Paddocks for them to fit. They do work for practical classics as well 07512 978387