I asked a question about paint removal in a previous thread and this led to some answers about spraying so I just wanted to bring this together in a new thread - hope that's OK. Thanks to everyone who gave advice and so my understanding is as follows with regards to spraying a replacement door for my Mk2 Vitesse (I'm planning on using cellulose aerosols)
1. Sand existing paint back to bare metal using poly strip sanding discs attached to either a drill or angle grinder.
2. Fill any imperfections and sand
3. Spay a few coats of etch primer. Does this need sanding between coats?
4. Spray a couple of coats of High Build Primer and flatten back. Do I use 600 wet and dry for this?
5. Spay thin coats of cellulose top coat to gradually build up the layers - about 5 coats in total. Do I flatten between coats using 600 wet and dry?
6. Apply final top coat and leave to dry. How long for and does anything else need to happen to the final coat or is that it?
Have I understood this correctly or am I missing something?
Many thanks again
Robin
Hi Pete
Yep - think I should have learnt by now. Problem was that I was travelling back down from Scotland and had spoken to Mick Dolphin in Leicester so it was convenient to pick it up on my way through. Didn't even occur to me that the sender unit might be different - but I do now!
Robin
Hi Steve
Yep - learning the hard way is getting to be expensive. If I could arrange collection would you be willing to sell your loft bound tank?
Cheers
Robin
Quick update - managed to get a second hand tank which looks in pretty good condition. There's a small trace of white spirit in the bottom so I guess someone has tried cleaning it? Think I need to remove the sender unit to get a better look inside - are there any problems in taking this out?
Hi Again
Can anyone suggest the best way of cleaning a used tank? Is it just a question of sloshing some petrol around it to clear any debris or is there a better method?
Thanks
Robin
One more question ...
Just passed the MOT yesterday but the tester said the the rear offside brake was slightly low on pressure - possibly a sticking brake cylinder.
As I've got to drain the brake fluid - is it worth replacing the rear brake cylinders at the same time? If so is it a straightforward job?
Thanks again
Robin
Hi Richard, so in terms of the bleeding sequence I'm assuming it's the following;
Offside front, nearside front, nearside rear, offside rear?
Also, how much fluid do you think I'll need?
Robin
Looks like I've got a very small drip coming out of the master cylinder which I'm assuming means checking/replacing a seal. Is it possible to do this without having to drain/ replace all the fluid and then bleeding the system? Thanks, Robin
Hi Pete
Thanks for the tip
When you say dribbling out of the filler do you mean out past the locking petrol cap and down the filler neck? I've just noticed that the rubber grommet than seals the neck to the wing is loose so I guess if fuel is coming out past the filler cap it might trickle down into the boot. I've also noticed that the paint on the fuel tank around the filler neck is damp so will investigate further.
Thanks Steve & Darren
I'm pretty sure the problem is up towards the filler pipe ( facing the inner wing) - would the Frost tank sealant kit work there?
A new tank from Rimmers is £270!!
Robin
I've noticed recently a strong smell of petrol when I fill up and have just found a pool of fuel underneath the tank. I can't see a leak but I think it must be coming from near to the filler pipe as it only happens on a full tank. I obviously need to take the tank out for a proper check but is it possible to seal a leak or does it mean a new tank? If so, where's the best place to get one? Thanks, Robin