JohnD

Fitting a seat belt anchorage point, that is secure and safe, is not complicated. Anchor plates, 55mm wide with a fixed nut, are widely available from respected suppliers, like this; They should be welded to the reverse side of the panel, over a hole for an eye bolt of the correct size (7/16" or M10) and length. The question is, will old panels have sufficient strength, in original manufacture or in their old and corroded state? A wider plate welded to the back with the above mount plate on top will spread the load even better. MotorsportUK recommends a 'counterplate' of at least 40 cms^2. This is 6cms square, not much bigger than the above mount plate, but go as big as possible! Like this: BUT NOTE! The eye bolt should NOT be mounted over the carpet!!! It should go through so that all the clamping force is on the panel. ALSO!! The small hole in the spring clip should be filled with a split pin, to lock the clip into place I can't find a better picture! John

Three factors to consider: 1/ The Pitch Circle Diameter. Triumph used a smaller PCD than almost any other manufacturer, 3 ¾” (95.25mm). Do these wheels match that? 2/ The offset. This the distance between the hub mount and the actual middle point between the rims. Usually expressed as "ET" for "Einpress Tiefe" the German for offset. I believe that wheels with a 20-25 mm ET will fit. 3/ You may be able to find tyres to fit a 14" wheel that will clear the wheel arch. The new tyres will be radials and they will need to have narrower, stiffer walls to achieve that fit. Stiffer walled radials will reduce the footprint of the tyre by lifting an edge when camber doesn't stay in a small range around zero. This may be acceptable on a road car, it depends on how you drive it, but has been tried for competition where 14" wheels don't improve adhesion! John

I think I suggested a shifted outer ring (inertia ring) on your crank damper pulley, which was my first thought, but you found that it was a true indicator of TDC. Other than that, it is possible to install the distributor drive 180 degrees out - the drive slot is only slightly offset - but that would need VERY advanced timing! Now you have corrected this small cam timing fault, please try the engine and prove me wrong! John

That do?

My misstype! For 1/2 tooth! But ... were you aware? And ... that tiny degree of cam mistiming will NOT be the cause of your need for very advanced ignition timing! You're focussing on a trivial fault. John

Sounds a bit like "Just Rolled In" on YouTube, but without the idiot owners! John

Are you aware that the cam sprocket may be rotated to achieve valve timing down to less than 1/4 tooth? Thus is by the four bolts, of which the two pairs are slightly off set. From WSM, p. 1.138: "NOTE: The camshaft timing sprocket is provided with four holes which are equally spaced but offset from a tooth centre. Half tooth adjustment is obtained by rotating the sprocket 90 degrees from its original position. A quarter tooth adjustment may be obtained by turning the sprocket "back to front". By rotating it 90 degrees in this reversed position, three-quarters of a tooth variation is obtained. After securing the sprocket, re-check the timing to ensure that the camshaft has not been disturbed during this operation." The last refers to the crank being in TDC on 1 and 6. John

Kevin, Car springs come in two Inner Diameter sizes, 2.5" and 2.25". O.25" = just over 6mm (6.35mm). Could that be the difference? Triumphs use the smaller size. John

Sigh. All that work. I'm sure that I suggested ELoO to check the timing was correct! Only the rocker cover needs to come off to do that.

Take off the starter, and jam a large screwdriver between the teeth of the starter ring on the flywheel, so that when you lean on the crank pulley bolt, the screwdriver hits the edge of the hole and jams the crank. If doing this on one tooth worries you, there is a special tool: Flywheel Locking Tool - Petrol/Diesel | VSE2394 | Sealey THEN , use the scaffold pole! John

Despite the 2000+ "uses" that WD40 claims, including as a penetrating oil, it's pretty useless for that purpose. There are many other purpose made penetrators, plus some home brews (Acetone and ATF? Ah, le bouquet, monsieur!), but my own favourite is 'Innotec DeBlock' Some heat may help too. No need for red heat, but get it too hot to touch! John

Glad you think it useful. The idea is that the hammer provides impetus, but the dolly strikes the door! If that makes sense.

DBJ, You did very well with the filler, but a Hammer & Dolly technique might have got the crease out further! Hammer on the outside, so you can swing it, dolly inside the door. This site shows you how, but many others online: Maintaining and applying metal finishing skills | Vehicle Service Pros JOhn

No, no, Kelv! Please stay here with it! But if someone wants to contribute to a Rover V8 thread, they're unlikely to be looking for the one this started as! I have a RV8 project so I'm interested, but that is mated to a Renault UN1 gearbox (transaxle), so I can't talk about the BW35. John

Maybe you should start a new thread, Kelv? Or, and with respect to others here, there are specific Rover V8 forums: Classic Rover Forum The Rover P6 Club And others! John

And Six! This is on sale in New Zealand: 1968 Triumph Other Vitesse 6 | Trade Me Motors Hope the buyer races it! John

Hope someone buys it to race it! How many competition Vitesses is that you have in NZ now? You could have more than the rest of the World put together!! John

On the contrary, they provided a lot of answers! Although the Egyptians knew about right angled triangles before they did.

I find, using Isopon, that the workability depends on how much hardener you mix in, and the atmospheric temp.

That is bit like saying, if I change the bandage, it needs changing anyway, as the blood is soaking through, will it get better? Have you done anything on the 'box? Like drain the oil and inspect? I had a noise on the TRansit. I knew it was the diff when I drained that and there were 'silvery bits' in it. A rebuild and new bearings cured it. John

Mjit, There's length and there's stiffness. Imagine fitting a 'spring' that is instead a solid tube, so thick that the weight of the car cannot compress it. Then ride height will be the same as bench fitted height. Alternatively, a spring of thin wire, which will be compressed until the suspension meets in the middle, or the car meets the ground! Performance springs are usually stiffer, so that in use forces compress them less, while ordinary springs are flexible for a comfortable ride. A stiff spring will be shorter than a flexible one, to lower the suspension and car but also because of the above. If they were as long as a flexible spring, the ride height would be much higher. Suspension spring manufacturers offer an almost infinite range of length and stiffness. For the ultimate optimum performance, it's still difficult to choose exactly the right combination, which is why the dampers with an adjustable seat are used, but for road use, such precision may not be needed. The spring maker will be able to quote the stiffness in "pounds per inch", how much weight will compress the spring by a certain amount. That will allow you to estimate how much a stiffer spring will compress compared with the original. The original spring stiffness, unless it is a factory fitted one (1500 Spitfire 180lbs/in), may not be known, but standing on the free spring, and having an assistant measure the compression will let you estimate that (Your weight/compression = stiffness) Good luck! John PS I should have pointed out that the angled mounting of the Triumph springs is not optimal for suspension purposes, however useful it was for production. Not only does the spring length affect ride height in a way that is related to the trigonometry, not directly, but as the suspension is compressed that angle increases and the stiffness of the spring changes, because the moment lever changes! Cars designed as race cars almost always have vertical springs, so that none of that applies. That's not where we are, but I hope is interesting! J

No! make the spring longer and the car will ride higher, but not as much as the spring was longer! Spring length = SQR[ Ride height^2 + Distance from the vertical of spring^2] - Pythagoras OR Trig. Tangent A = Ride height/spring length Here's a table of the tangents of Angle A: Tangent Table Chart of all Angles from Zero Degree to 90 Degrees (basic-mathematics.com) Good luck! John

Would that translate into a two inch higher riding height ? not quite. You need either Pythagoras, or trigonometry! Because the spring is at an angle, it's extra length will cause less extra height.

World zone 2 prices Max Weight Price 100g £11.30 250g £12.25 500g £17.00 750g £20.10 1kg £23.35 1.25kg £26.35 1.5kg £29.45 2kg £31.15 These are the parcel prices to "World Zone 2" on the PO's website. How heavy was the parcel?

With respect, Johnny, if you need instructions from Rimmer's...... Do you get them if you buy parts from any modern dealer? Did you ever? That's what the Work Shop Manual is for! John