Pete Lewis
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Posts posted by Pete Lewis
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in basic terms at the regulator join all 30amp lucar wired together
join the 17amp lucar blades together but not the earth ...its not needed
connect the orig 30 amp lucar to any one of the two on the alternator ( as both are the same )
join the orig 17 amp to the WL terminal on most lucas the two are again the same
some require an additional battery voltage sensing wire . B+ not really needed this unit may be from vauxhall who did use the extra feed
to best of the grey matter triumphs ,rootes , BL etc never have this option.
its best to run a new heavy gauge wire direct from the alt 30amp to the solenoid battery eyelet and remove the old harness
Pete
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Some condensers sold are complete rubbish, , like there is nothing much inside the can
the things give peculiar faults with running , as theres no buffering to give the pionts a good snap,
in the old days it was easy ,, idles but bangs and backfires when revved was condenser,
the latest offerings give all odd misfires and stops.
its worth checking the coil polarity is correct, whatever the battery earth is the dizzy line
ie neg earth, coil neg to dizzy,
pete
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this may be the old nutshell of debris in the supply line floats about and blocks the back of the float needle valve
also if youve wash and wetted have a look at the ht termnals in the coil (no green stuff inside) and the dizzy cap
look inside the cap for moisture.
stale fuel does give some troubles ,but its never haunted me yet.
point gaps ?
and engine oil in the dashpots , no weedy stuff in these
make sure the choke returns and the jets return to contact their adjusting nuts, ( give choke a pull/push and poke jet with finger ) and if they stick open it runs rich and hot starts ...wont
Pete
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Sounds like the carbs are set on the rich side
air in the filter dosnt always make a problem
using a all rubber hose feed does reduce vapour in the feed pipe as it doesnt conduct the heat
check the pump delivers a good spurt of fuel with each stroke and with engine idling should supply about a pint in a minute,
make sure the choke is fully off,
do you have the side mounted temp compensators, these ust be adjusted to , shut, when at normal
temp you cant set the mixture if they are open all the time.
if you have the start vave choke on the front carb , check its discs are not corroded and bypassing fuel
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any overdrive work needs very long thin fingers , upside down varifocals and strong tea
could you use a hex headed tap bolt to recover , its not under a lot of pressure , and only a cork gasket, ( can be anything really)
if the covers off make sure its flat and not distorted by previous overtightening
Pete
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here is copy of the shop link post
way back when I decided 7mm or any thicker wider arm would improve the load on the screen I got some wider arms with adjustable lengths
so i could use a longer blade without it fouling the top of the screen rubber ffrom a selection of parts from these guys
there's every type of fitting, available if you search around to get the blade thickness, the blade attachment , spline diameter etc
http://www.vintageca...ipers-wiper-arm
Garth has some adjustable arms , but not the thicker section.
then get the wheel boxes to run 180deg from their worn teeth, stick a card needle on the spline, pull the rack out , then turn spline 1/2 turn
grease and refit rack check spline is now running in a new position, refit the arms
also check all tube clamps are tight .
remove cover from wiper motor, grease gears and clean park sweepers,
also when removing the rack take it out of the motor gear box and turn it over 1/2 turn to run the wheels on a less worn part of the rack
Peter
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You can tap it metric ,
pete
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any overdrive work is best to get a proper workshop manual , it explains all you need to know
the filter pulls off, normally covered in sticky gunge
you may need a new plate gasket
drain old gear oil and refill with new ep 80/90 GL4 when finished.
you can test pump pressure from the valve port on the top of the case, get the manual first ..
you cant readily adjust the pump, there are relief valves and accessible parts underneath inside 2 of the 3 large plugs ....get the manual first
there are higher output pumps available, not easy to do , need to make a pump drag tool .
set the valve and solenoid travel remove drivers side plate ,operate solenoid, look at lever it has hole in , use a drill as a gauge and adjust sol rod to align lever hole with hole in case.
on top is a tight spool valve holder, may need a special shaped socket to undo this, remove the cap and pull out the small needle spool inside . just check its small hole down the middle is clean. refit in the correct order
the other cap has relief bal and spring , make sure all is clean and spring has not collapsed.
buckeye triumphs have excellant photo step by step technicals but not on D type , worth a read
http://www.buckeyetriumphs.org/technical/technical.htm
and manuals care of steve http://vitessesteve.co.uk/Servicemanuals.htm
Pete
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if you simple bridge the normally open contact terminals of the relay it should Toot ! if that works its relay or relay wiring thats failing
also try and run a dummy earth to the horns to elliminate the column and wiring to it.
toot toot
Pete
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will look for a snap .
and despite searching I cant find the blighter in the parts lists anywhere, and cant remember who pointed me into the right direction
but definitely seen on other cars
pete
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made up a simple metal plate with 4 holes about 25 apart to suit the holes in the wing Brkt/tank brkt. bridges the gap between the two
its just any bit of flat plate nothing fancy , god know who designed this silly bit of leggo but its quite important to get the tank and stay in the right place
fit the stay to the two top holes
found out this when fitting a new tank, and made a dent in it with the stay without even going down the road Pah.
cant find a part no ref , but have a look at other cars and ' its there '
Pete
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And the short strap that spaces the tank from the drop bracket is important or the boot stay will foul up on the tank when you close the boot,
Found that problem when realised it was missing from an previous owner rebuild.
its only approx 25mm long but affects the dropped angle of the boot prop stay.
pete
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Toe was introduced to correct the squeegee effect crossply tyres have under the footprint
by design radials dont need toe in,
so on our cars toe is generally zero, as everthing has a tolerance 0 to 3mm is the norm to aviod goint toe out,
modern front wheel drive and anti dive suspensions may well require some toe out
the answer lies within the manufacturers specification
changing the bush or spring rates wont affect the basic spec
just views from my background
you need a chassis dynamometer to assess what happens under driving conditions
its not a guessing game,
pete
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as said they wont have the data to get it right
you dont need laser 4 wheel kit for these simple cars
if thats the route you take and they dont load or pull the suspension down you cant apply the triumph specification
unless that spec actually is for Unladen or kerb wt
they will just do it unladen and next year your tyres have scrubbed out and they will imply a load of cobblers about you hitting a kerb
by design suspensions are designed to to cope with day to day incidents one engineering std test was park hard against a kerb, apply full lock and drive of, without deforming anything
in an accident its more dramatic and yes stuff bends
I just gave my optical gear to Kevin to play with, old but workable, just takes ages to set up, I have a TrackAce with a laser spot and single mirror which
is far too fidgety, and always loosing the reflection ,and wont stay on the wheel one sneeze and its moved.
for one man operation a Gunsons Trackrite side slip gauge works wonders ( £40 amazon) light and easy ,just run over and there's your slip showing !!
in the end two planks a brick two rubber ducks and a cheap tape give you all you need apart from
nicking bags of coal or having rent a crowd round for tea to load the seats ...in all cases
Pete
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I need to make some photos like on the old site
yes mmost small chassis need 150lbs on each seat to get the suspension in its 'Static ride height'
use two staright lenghts of wood or metal bar pushed against the tyre,
use clives brick or make short legs to hold the ''bar' to sit above the load bulge in the tyre
do this both sides, and run a decent tape measure under the car measure across the beams in front and behind the trye, it needs to be 0- 3mm narrower at the front than the back
same applies to rear wheels
to get a view of all 4 are square you can use a decent piece of 6ft long timber and position this against the rear tyre on clives brick and have the excess length run under the sill,
just sight the alignment to the car body/sill if the toe is equal the line of the timber will need look the same down both sides of the car, its easy to view this , as the longer the bar the greater the magnified effect
adjust tie rods to get them equally parallel.
if you get bunny hops on pot holes its sure the rear toe and rear axles are in need of adjustment
specialist in the high street will not have the details for static ride heights this applies to
most vehicles old classic or modern, it sets the suspn. In its average running ride deflection
heights at which the toe spec is designed to be applied
if your luckmsome manufactures give unladen specs which will have a built in allowance
Even some triumph spec state unladen or at kerb weight,
its called read the factory manuals to get right,
or you can wast a lot of £££s and still have poor handling and tyre scrub
dont have me trig books handy but 3mm@600tyre diameter toe in drags the tyre sideways
a few hundred metres every mile
Pete
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Easy to test the effect of the column earth is to simple connect the top column shaft in the engine bay to
earth, if it improves things well there a clue,
yes some of the rubber disc uj has wired bolts to retain them there should be a seperate
link with eyelets under the bolt heads to brodge the rubber isolator
seen cars were a simple brass sweeper brush made to rub on column and earth to the baulkhead
to aleviate coulmn earth problems.
may be nowt to do with your problem but is more fun then emerdale !!!
PETE
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can you post what car you have please ,
if you have a click from the relay ,then Kevins lead is on the right track
as you have checked the rack earth have you checked the wire that bridges the universal joint ,
assumed this is herald/vit/spit GT6 range ??
Pete
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Yes use the net to compare part numbers,
the only thing springs to mind is rear spring and tie rods would vary
also carb., filters, cables etc , but you already have that model mix
Pretty much most mechanical parts are interchange/same
pete
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In the day it would have been a spirit based impact adhesive
evostik was the diy offering
You have to read the tins as the useless water based wont stick version is widely sold
you have to seek out the petrol based stuff it has flamable warning on the tin
both seem called multipurpose
but the water based white stuff is best left to playgroup
so make sure you get the high as kite , snot , or even thixothropic as this version allows some slip
pete
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as the lean is on a 1500 i guess this has a swinger in which case the lean is less likely to be spring dependant as there is only one leaf
clamped to the diff. the remain float in the pivot box.and will tend towards a self centre .
jack the car in the middle at the front measure the w arch to deck then same at the back , this will show which end has the lean.
I would agree its more likely anti roll or stiff trunion
to check the arb you only need to discon one end if its bent it will ping out of alignment .
Pete
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One cheap improvement to braking effort is to make the pedal pad larger
you would be surpried at the effect
pete
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on trucks they went to all black with a number imprinted on each wire , there could be 200 wires in a sleeved bundle, great when the marks disappear
stick to something bright and colourfull
Pete
Rotoflex Vitesse Rear Trunnion Kit
in Chassis, Suspension & Steering
Posted
this may be related to some kits had sealing discs made for other models ( was it TR7) ?? and many found some were 'too thick'
similar problems appeared with the front hub felt seal and retainers ...Grrrr aftermarket looks about right ..Noooo!!
so you might just have removed a thick one to replace with a (correct ) thin one and the assy had been opened out to accomodate
just a thought
Pete