Jump to content

Pete Lewis

TSSC AO
  • Posts

    24,938
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    580

Posts posted by Pete Lewis

  1. Heres another small point ,

    prop couplings have a face runout tolerance of around 0.002" maybe as much as 0.005" so any paint needs to be removed or the paint can affect flatness and give vibration, the face should be clean and dry

    paint makes a good lubricant , and the coupling surface grip is lost

     

    apart from that the latch recess looks brilliant

     

    pete

  2. Never come across a pourous cylinder, unusual but all is possible

     

    do you use dot4 or ......a silicon fluid

    One easy test ...dot 4 washes off with water

     

    but most spills are from the cap seal

    its breather hole,

    the pipe union

    or seal falure out into the cabin footwell

     

    So no special clues on this one Pete

  3. The interupted feed to the rockers is controlled by a flat on the rear cam journal, so the rockers get a short squirt for each turn of the cam, its not intended to be a full pressure full flow oil supply

    its not needed, in many cars the design has supported 40to 50 years before wear takes it toll

    there, s little need for any modification to do a few thousand recreational miles if it lasts another 40 years

    After a rebuild where, s the problem

     

    this has the same myth of oil, drain back.. in real terms it may cause alarm but just look how long the

    designs have lasted,

    really save some cash put it into fuel and drive the things

    these problems are not really problems

    pete

  4. Ok I see where youre coming from , I would agree the old ign switch would struggle to power the piggy back Ht solenoid load but on most the orig starter sol is run direct from the ign switch crank position and should be / could used to incorporate and run the Htorque and it solenoid ..

     

    down to preferance

    I was always going to fit a push button,,, more nostalgia but sold the Vit6

     

    pete

  5. There's pin normally is anfew mm below the casting, it can go anywhere as its only held in place by

    the crinkle bush( not the best design around) so depends how far it was tapped in by previous work.

     

    if the driver dropped in 10mm I would start to be concerned if only a couple of mm then its as good as it gets

     

    many use a replacement with a head on so it might be a rattling good fit but wont drop out and let you down ,

     

    make sure the bleed screw is at the top pipe below it.

    make sure the pedal returns to its stop

    look at moving the slave towards the engine

    examine for wear on the clevis pin holes in the pedal and fork

    make sure no mats are restricting pedal travel

     

    pete

  6. Also have a look down the o/s of the clutch housing you should see the end of the pivot pin its visible with a bit of searching , if the pin has dropped out theres just a hole

    the pin is about 8 mm dia

    Its held in with a tolerance ring a crinkle shim bush

    device these odo rust and drop out , the withdrawl lever is

    then running late and the slave wont travel far enough.

     

    many do have to file the slave to allow more forward fitting

     

    if the disc has stuck to the flywheel or the cover , it should not

    affect the diaphragm released position .

     

     

    pete

  7. Think you have nailed your vibro

    There is a gremlin with classic repairs when you have a problem and find the culprit

    Once repaired you find the problem still exists many have this Tee shirt,

     

    It can haunt the best intentions thers often 40/50 years of ghosts determined to win

    ha pete

  8. Jon, while its all accessible   and youve nothing else to do .......whip out one of the 4 front diff  plate mount bolts , have a look  they should have a tapered shank as the holes in the carrier are larger than the bolt thread dia.  

     

    as Ive had  one naff  bolt come loose here and jam the prop its both very noise stop but darn inconvenient

     

    they are whats called a wedgelok bolt  with a internal sttar washer ,   anything else can work loose

     

    mine was a recon from a 'reputable' retailer ,  with the come loose std bolts fitted

    first time in my life we needed recovery, as not able to sort on the road side

    132856.jpg

     

    Pete

  9. In many cases its the lack of cycling (charge and dischaging) needed to keep a battery fit

    even the best can give up with coated plates due to lack of use, I would tend towards get a 063 as these are a volume sales unit so priced well, go for the most ecconomical with a long warranty,

    bear in mind a lot have reducing age warranty but some dont, when it sulphates take back for replacement,

    Wont be everlasting warranty but you save some ££s

     

    its all down to preference

     

    pete

  10. I buy some goods from ebay but  always check other sites as often the prices on ebay are more than retail sites 

     

       just ordered a piece of equipment ,  Amazon £45    .............Ebay  £ 58- £89     dont get hooked 

         and now  without the Vitesse6  I dont have   to  troil me onions anymore .

     

    Pete

  11. Good point on cable and lubrication the main problem here is on herald/vitesse the cable runs through the heater plenum and is open to get rained on, most are not a sleeved outer so moisture rusts the piano wire inside

     

    so to remove it and lube will help many a stiff choke

     

    pete

  12. There some simple clues about how to on bills www.rarebits4classics..co.uk

     

    the drive shaft universal can make some unbelivable noises and vibrations

    its less problem on rotaflex but on spit herald mk1 vitesse and gt6 this little unit takes awhole lot of load

    as it rotates the journals on the crosspin must not have any lift or end float the caps under the circlips must be a neat tight fit, a prposhaft is self centres and less of a problem

     

    thicker circlips are about to make these little sods a neat fit

    You must get the shaft as in its running position and stick a strong lever through the cross pin and attempt to lever the yoke , the slightest lift will give you noise vibtration and or clicking on corners at low speed,

    you cab change the circlips on the car , they must ,,, reallymmust be

    cleaned and fully located in their shallow groove

    believe me you dont want one to pop out on test

     

    got that Tee shirt.

     

    Bearing caps can and often pitch and jam

    it goes with the job , never force a new cap , if it stops

    when pressing in then you probably have a needle roller

    dropped out , stop look start again

     

    pete

×
×
  • Create New...