GT6M
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Posts posted by GT6M
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Ian, think its a 3/8th allen, an its generally tight
there enough room in thea t,run a switch
infact I once ed a oil temp sender in thea,
the bigg bulb type
Tek the oil pressure switch oot, or the allen bolt
an put some oil doon thea, then crank
oil wont fly oot, it,ll dribble oot at crank speeds
If oils come,n oot , then yer pumps ok
another tip, always fill filter up wid oil,
on some wid double drain valves, it can tek some time,
but can be sped up by hold,n the flap / flaps open
then screw on fast, ye wont loss much oil really
M
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is this noise a sort,v clonk,n noise
which is accompanied by a slight jerkiness in 4 th gear or top OD at low revs on over run
an a clonk on power tek up.!!
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late t,this,n, did,nt see it
Dont need a speedo change really ,but maybe easiest option
seeing as ye gotta tek the tunnel oot,which is a feat in its self.
but ye can alter the drive pinion int OD,or GB end
a 3.27 should have a 3-1 ratio.
thats 3 turns of GB input shaft, t,1 turn drive pinion shaft in 4th gear
thats wid a 6 start drive scroll and a 18 tooth pin
but they can be altered between 6-17 6-18 6-19 6-20
I altered mine this way, as speedo was reading wrong after use,n diff tyres
Butt, it all depends wot drive scroll ye got in
could be a 5,6,7 one, then go alter the pin drive t,suit what yer speedo wants.
M
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Yes its the valve stem
the indent I said was thea, is actually the Stop for the piston oft solly
thats what the clack,n noise is
Biggest prob I kem across was the wee circlip, they a bugga t,get oot,
and no many spots ev em,
Hoo this valve stem got t,not trave further is a total mystery
took another t,bits, an the piston valve identicle length
so must be lower doon in the solly
measured the distance of travel of another, an it was diff to the good,n I had,
there just a wee bit, but the bad,n just moved aboot .77 mm a good,n moves aboot 1.6 -1.8 mm it seems
Untill Ive got a real dead,n, then Im stumped a bit,
as it cant be adjusted as such, as the so;;ys travel is determined by the indent stop,
it cant go any further, and its deffo touch,n the stop,
And the stop aint worn, even it it wer worn, it would,v made the plunger come further up
so mek,n the valve move further.
and the end oft valve did,nt look like it had mushroomed, so loose,n travel in process.
ne doubt some Brain Box will sus it oot, but for moment, im stumped as t,why it wer like this
Easy t,test, just clean it off, an wire t,a battery, an click away
the travel can be seen, its no much, so no much at all is a no no, !!!
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Soldered a brass shim ont end, .8 mm
tried it ,works fint
tried it on a OD box ready t,go oot, works fine
So if yer sollys act,n up,
work,n, as in click,n in / oot, but no let,n pressure build
then look t,the inner valves movement
M
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Yes its a bad miss, its aboot 6 miles frae me
they stock all sorts of stuff ye used t,find in the car accessory shops of long ago
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9 hours ago, Colin Lindsay said:
I hope someone comes up with a better solution than 'bin the carbs'...
Keep yer carb bodies, an fit some injectors in em, or in the mani, an run EFI, !!!
there systems oot there noo thats doo,n this.
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will also need t,richen up yer mixture,
as wid the 10% stuff it,ll run leaner, so adding t,ex valves woes even moer so.
I can see the diff when I bung in the 5% stuff, cos there no Supaplus or what ever its called wid nin in it at some stations
ECU is adding moer fuel at idle , which is where I only use the feed back loop
and cos im already v v lean on cruise, up to TPS 5-7 { L1 is adding 20-25% at thee,s sites if used or check,n } it falters an jerkyness sets in under 10% load, so gotta dial in moer fuel for whole range in one go, easy wid an ECU, but no so wid carbs
So, some thing ye need to watch oot for, running weak wid E10 ,or moer.
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Yip, div,nt like b,n beaten,
but the solly is work,n fine, its the travel oft piston rod / valve thats the problemo.
If the solly wer,nt wuk,n , then it would deffo be took t,bits
then maybe see if the screw heed was actually attached to a adjuster
I dont think its been t,bits befoer I got at it, as roll pins an body wer unmarked
And, cos I drilled roll pins oot, ed t,re drill an tap for some counter sunk screw heeded screws
Looks like because oft recess I think is inside the pluger wol, then the remedy is t,solder on a new bit of brass
onto end oft valve end, as the wee nut I used t,get movement stuk in the recess quite alot whenst test,n,
an then adjust so its same ast t,other good sollys
If this is the case, then im think,n that alot of good sollys ev been binned
wen they could,v been fiddled wid an fixed !!
ev a deek thru thee,s pics, it,ll show what im on aboot
meb,e of some use t,some folk some where doon the line
1, this pic show,n screw heed inside plungers wol
note, the 2 wee indents, which I thowt wer for a circlip plier type tool, dont turn, its solid
so could nae get at innards
2, inner end oft outer bit, an wee nut i tried t,use t,mek distance up but it stuck moer than it moved in a recess bit
zero,n the vernier t,get a depth reading for travel
piston valve stick,n oot the end body bit, also show,n re drilled an tapped wols an counter sunk body
distance of valve body t,end of outer bit, it wer spot on look,n where i looked frae, so ignor the gap
distance of plunger depth
distance of plunger travel
good an bad sollys at rest position, note where top bands are at ont inner valve
depth of plungers wol depth
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Ive been look,n at it just noo,
there is a difference between the solonoids travel, and the length of the rod / valve stems travel that fits into it
basicly, because there is a gap { thats what the clank,n noise is when ye give the solly a shek aboot } between the valve stem / rod, and the plunger, which seems t,be too big on this one, so the valve stem aint moving as much as it should doo, when plunger is moved.
there is a screw head inside the actuall body, on the end of the plunger
but it dont make any difference to the distance the plunger moves,
it just seems t,be free turning.
Unless, the screw has come adrift frae its adjusting nut on inside.
But there ne way of see,n that, nor can I fin an internal picture of the solly
IF the adjusting screw has come adrift, then that would make sence, as the sollys plunger can be adjusted, If it is adjusted that way.!!Or, there was a shim spacer, so it teks travel up, but nin kem oot oft plugers wol that I seen
and, at the very bottom oft pluger, on the walls, there seems t,be a recess all,t way roond,As tried a wee nut in there, but this nut kept get,n stuk in this recess,so it did,nt move ato
OR,does this recess go into sollys internals, and spacers brok up, an took residence up inside where it shouldt be.!!
will tek some pics later on when me cam batts charged up
as pics say a 1000 words. -
Ive just had similar goings on, just put it up on anotha site, so you Ladds
can ev the info too.
This so far es got me stumped,
maybe some of you Ladds had similar, or no wots going on.
J Type OD solonoid, it was found it wer,nt working, as no let,n pressure build up
it wer clik,n in /oot as the noise was there.
took it off, and its deffo click,n, but not covering the port holes when energised
took the innards out, and tested it, by put,n a shank down it, it worked, as the screwdriver shank was moving about 1/4 inch
Put the operating rod back in, and it was same as before, about 1/32 movement
took seals off rod, and fitted it back in, so ne resistance to effect the rod
put a punch down it, same size as rod, it worked, moved 1/4 inch
put brass rod section in, it dont moveNote, the wee spring int end is t,push the plunger / rod back doon,
the solonoid is quite strong, as it can lift the drift whicj is about 1/4 pound
but cant lift the plunger /rod
So, its some thing to do with the brass rod
for them no sure wots inside a solly, then look at pic,
For others info, took the roll pis oot, think,n that I could get at innards,
but the black cover,just covers the end bit,
there is no way into the workings bit
so a wasted effort there if any one else is think,n of going in there.An for Pete, the roll pins easy drilled oot wid a center drill, lathe type
then ye need t,drill oot the brass bit after the nut, its a round tight fit into black body so some locating screws can go in, t,tek spot of roll pins.
Any one any idea wots going on.
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whenst ye got it oot,
get it int vice, and wid a file, clean up the damaged flats, make em nice an square
then, get a large nut, 12 mm and a square file, and hold nut int vice
and file a square into inside, just a wee bit less than the plug
then, apply thread lok, put plug an nut int vice an tighten up, till nut is all the way onto plug
make life so much easier.
OR, for best results, ditch the plug, an fit a gearbox drain plug
muchess bettuss in every way, inc a magnet.
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reff,n t,what Pete said about the rear bearing,
id,never seen a rear alloy housing worn away till i took a box apart a while ago
basicly the bearing had spun int gb housing, this then wore the alloy housing away
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If yer no giv,n it some serious right foot,
then good chance it wont leak
real test its WOT an high revs, for a while, or repeated blasts
high revs an light throttles wont give pressure t,crank case as much as WOT will.
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Id want t,no why the tip mangled up,
lube aint always the problemo, esp if yer oil levels kept topped up,
most ar,nt
the crank spigot if worn is a real culprit for tip wear, break,n
And, if ye wer t,get a recon exchnage, ye most likely loose yer deposit,cos box is kaput
I got some re done GT OD boxes wid mods, ready t,go oot,
as ye well no.
I told Ye an R, I would still help oot, even though I was Disavowed.
but obviously would rather eat Humble Pie than ask locally, after Disavowing , Me.
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Had this image for yonks, cant even recaal where I got it frae
there nee water jackets aboot the outer ex ports
so can have been done t,get a roondy pipe into a roond hole,!!
the square shaped holes, { common in other engines too } are for space saving reasons only,so LJK saidAnd, a modded heed for injection that prob never seen the light of day in a prd model
thowts,
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Nigel, did ye put a bead aland the outer cyl heed joint t,block
this is a last line of defence, but did,nt doo it toll the other mods..broke doon.
it works quite well too even on a already blow,n engine
see black line aloang cyl heed int pic
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Yes, f,got its just under the MU, but ye can see that the holes muchess bigguss than a 1/2 pipe
go for the biggest ye can get in, as said, a 22 mm pipe squashes moer or less t,that shap,e
and alot easier whenst yer work,n on aa spare engine ont bench !!
re oil pipes for Pete,
Yip, Cols spot on, its a engine pre oiler, an oil feed if I get oil surge starvation.
oils yer engin befoer its started, after even a 2-3 week sit.
cost me less than a 5,er t,mek it, as had all bits int shed, the solonoid valve was of flea bay.
put it on here yonks ago, as weel as other sites.
total apathy towards it frae the .. My engine dont rattle on start up, my engine dont need it, my engines never rattled, Brigade.
pics sent to ye
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Ahaa, f,got ye running PI
butt, there aint much room b,int the MU if i recaal.
it,ll possibly have t,be flat an wide
Butt, I,d got for another breather ont rocker box
just cos there nee room on a PI block
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If ye fit,n alloy hubs, they will spin eventually, even if loctited in.
they need t,be pinned onto the bearing, pref in 3 spots
seen too many ruined alloy hubs in both Triumph an Fords
Ask Dave aboot get,n em pinned,
Unless they noo pinn,n em
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That redundant fuel pump hole int side oft block,
its not O shaped , but moer an elongated hole
15 mm will suffice, but 22mm will be even better
but only prob, 22 is bigger thant hole int block across
but not in height.
solutionee is t,shape the 22 mm end into shape oft hole
then solder that to a plate, then add a pipe to it
it need t,be aboot 3-4 inches high if not used wid a catch tank,
as the pressure an the speed of exiting gasses can blow the oil along way upt pipe,
the bit wot the black ipe fits onto is a 22 mm pipe
M
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If yer no put,n in a bigger breather, or another,n to help the original
then after a while at high revs an loads, it will most likely leak.
normal drive,n an potter,n aboot will not generate the crank case pressures that leads t,oil spew,n oot
M
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best t,get it oot whilst its in bits
But, the rear case bit no needs t,come off t,get the diff bit oot
tek the front cross bar off, it,ll then drop doon, and case bolts can then be undone,
It does save tek,n the spring off, the inside bits too, {trim, carpet, cross brace, boards on a GT }
M
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Give the gasket a rub / clean along the front edge, so sealant sticks better.
it,ll shift the stuff thats on as OE,
Dont f,get t,seal along the oot side edges along the cyl heed / block too wid a wee seam,
needs cleaned first,so stuff will stick,
mask,n tape too, then finger finnish off whenye take tape off.
doo before dizzy is in place
IF, ye no what yer doo,n, { ive it off t,a fine art noo, !!! } then the outer seam can be done at same time as the heeds done,
this way all the mastick will set as one., as some will squelch oot frae the heed.
let no hoo ye get on,
good an bad sollys at rest position, note where top bands are at ont inner valve
Too many revs? !!!
in Gearbox & Overdrive
Posted
If yer speedo,or rev counter twitch,n all owa the spot,
then a good chance the inner drive sheaths gon awol in parts
Mine did this since I got it, my Spitty did it,
last yer the speedo packed up, found it wer drive cable snapped
the coiled wire inside has all curled up,
2 new cables, and speedo an rev counter are noo as smooth as a moderns/
It could also be that some one es put in a 4.55 diff
Best thing for ye t,doo is to jack car up, get under it,
an mark prop flange an diff crossbeam
then mark both axle flanges an the diff case
then turn the input shaft , and count hoo many times the prop end goes aroond,
till the marks on the axle shafts doo 1 full turn
a 4.55 will be just owa 4 1/3 turns
a 4.11 just over 4
a 3.89 just short of 4
If one wheel wont turn, or sticks, yee,l get a false reading,
if so, then move both wheels at same time 1 full turn,
an count the turns of the prop end.
above figs will be same, just reversed.
its really the only way t,fin oot wots int rear end.