GT6M
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Posts posted by GT6M
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Ye can spend a wee fortune on a 2L an get what, 20 HP, an 15 FT/LBs of T
at generally higher revs if a cam is fitted
BUT, bung in a 2.5, ye got aboot same HP, { if its a late engine }
early engine { 270 cam } will give 110+ an 150 Ts
thats alot of Ts at low revs too
and, yer fuel use could well be less, as yer no work,n the engine
esp if ye bung in a 3.63 = 3.27 instead of the 3.89
if ye got OD, then a 3.63 be ideal.
M
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Gary, f,git aboot a syphon, or suction, or what ever
just drill it in situ, can use any thread ye want as long as its a match t,bolt ye use
IT wont come flying oot, honest it wont, it,ll meb,e seep doon the drill bit
but put a rag aroong the bit,
Syphon wont get the crud oot, which will then just be going roond an roond the diff,
wear,n it away, if its no worn already
M
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Nigel, ye say
The TR6 breather from the rocker goes to the air plenum. The breather is therefore between the air filter and throttle butterflies. Unless the air filter is blocked, there won't be much vacuum in the air plenum, certainly far less than the 13-14" Hg manifold vacuum my car shows at idle. Removing the oil filler cap doesn't make this TR6 engine stall.
That flame trap yer reff,n too,
ye or any one else looked at the wol size, its no 1/2, no 7/16th, , its laa,ler than that,
just looked at an olde,n in me sheds collection,
Its no rocket science t,see that wid flame trap sort,v clogged an a wee pipe size, oils gonna get pushed oot every where.
Ye really got a couple of options, , add another breather t,rocker box, an mek the orignial bigger too, say 3/4 inch
or ,if no want,n t,re drill rocker box, put yan on the timing chain cover, bit moer invoved, but doo able,
In my mind, rocker box is best bet
And, ye mention air filter clogged,
did ye no that if a PI,s air filter is clogged, it will mek it run lean,
IE, is back t,front as for a carb set up, carb filter blocked, it,ll run rich.
Noo then, any one care t,say why,
NJ, yer no allowed, cos ye no, !!
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Nigel, i use a 60 grit, and change to a new bit often,
as its quite amazing wot comes off a clean heed, !!!
after rub,n right way, then is imperitive t,give it all a wesh wid thinners , { its aboot 6 squid for 5 litres, }
and plenty of clean rags /cloots too
as for fisrt 3-4 wipes, yer nice new cloots will be acky black,
clean untill they dont go black
Another bit of seal,n I doo, is all the way alang the front, an a little roond the ends,
this is on the oot side, the bit where the heed is shorter than,t block an there a wee ridge there.
this makes it a good sealing lip / step .
agen, clean wid sand paper, wesh off, and then run a small bead of the black silicon alang the whole front
as this will let it be a 2 nd line of defence, it works wee,l too if done right,!!
it helps t,get a straight line of sealant if ye use mask,n tape
put this on both bits no need,n sealed
and apply goo, then go alang it wid yer finger, and sqesh it oot , try no to put too much on
as it dont tek much, and pull off when finnishedm it can be then gon owa wid finger,
IF its left a dodgy edge, wid there being too much goo at edges.
Be very miserly when putt,n some sealant aroond the rocker feed gole,
as it,ll squesh oot, an can block the wee wol there.
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Ive very rearly seen one that dont leak,
just look at the pics of folk,s engines, coverd wid oil.
there, im my mind a few prob causes, esp wid the bigger engines.
1, the breather aint big enough, its same size for a 1300 as it is for a 2500
so go figure hoo much pressure inside engine, there is Alottt, like alott of gasses coming oot,
an if ye tek the breather of whenst under load at revs, { RR sessionee } then its a veritable gale blowing
{ this aint just on T engines either }
And, t,show its true, most wont leak oil potter,n aboot, but will spew it oot at high speeds an WOT
this is why it comes oot every where, like front,rear oil seals, dizzy area, dizzy shaft,into dizzy, rocker box, time,n cover
dipstick hole,sump bolts,sump gasket,
high speed an small pedal movements dont cause it as much, as there no as much by pass rings pressure.
Bigger breathers help alott, esp if the gasses are sucked oot
2, type of gasket an how its used.
some are coverd in a fine glue, others a fine silvery stuff, , which comes of on yer fingers whenst ye rub it.
an which is supposed t,melt whenst hot, an mek a seal.
thats why some area of heed, the gaskets stuck fast, others its not
Wots under the gasket thats no sealed, oil.
some times water, thats why its a good idea t,run engine wid nee water init for 5 mins or so t, try an get the gasket
varnish glue t,melt.
3, hoo the heed / block has been finnished can and does cause problemo,s
circular scratches going oot wards, esp if deep is a recipe for disaster t,me.
What will help, for a while, or alang time, dependant on hoo good yer prep is,
is t,ruff up the heed an block wid some wuff wuff sand paper,
and sand ..along or aroond the block , heed, this is so all the scrape lines are running aroond the block / heed, not out of it.
and get some good silicon mastick, the stuff that teks for ever t,set,
the longer it teks t,set, the better it sticks, think its Low modulous type, but no sure at moment.
Thats why some silicons in peel off easy, like in a strip whenst pulled. an others stick like sheite,
wont even budge wid a sharp chisel or blade.
and put a thin smooth film owa both sides of gasket on plug side,
DONT, start engine for a dayor 2, as mastick will no ev set, been there fun it oot.
And, Petes, an my choice of sealant, the Orange Loctite, , just dont work very good on this area,
possibly cos its try,n t,stick t,the gaskets glue bits, no the gasket, so when glue does melt, it comes adrift, as it sets solid
no like the mastick that stops pliable
Hoo doo i no, cos I tried it, so got the Badge which says it no works.
Gudluk
M
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Mark says,
I know someone who fitted one and he reckons it overcools.
Err is that no what a rad is supposed t,doo, cool
and if its cooling moer than the one took off, then maybe the other wernt up t,much,
and he fitted a lower thermostat t,compensate.
If its over cooling after new,n fitted, , then its no the rads fault, its a wrong thermostat still fitted.
ye cant really ev too much re,dundant cooling ability.
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you,ll need a 3/8th BSP, well thats what I use
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Read wot I said, no what you did Col, !!!
two totally diff things,
60-70 MPH is pintln aboot,😉
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So wot yer saying is that ye cant get them to adjust cos the adjusters stuc solid, correct
If so, the wee allen bolt in nob will most likely be stuck fast,
try an turn it, it,ll round off,
its generally the knob that rusts its sell t,the shocker body thats problemo
Can use some heat an moles on the knob t,try an turn it, after heat,n, { be carefull, too much an it,ll fry the seals }
but even if that works, the wee ball will be stuck solid, so nee click adjust.
drill it oot, then tek knob off an inner bit an clean oot,, it,,ll then be workable
And, what ive fun oot, is that most of the adjustable shockers for fronts are use,n the wrong valve,n
its set too hard on bump, and too soft on rebound, hence the hard ride most folks complain aboot wid uprated shockers
Im running 1200Lb,ers, an its as soft a ride as a normal car,/ or 330 lb,ers.
cos dampings nearly there, but not quite yet, !!
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them that say its no overheating, try driving at 5K plus for a few miles in top,
or even better OD top, then come back and say yer car dont over heat.
or even try giving it some beans in 1/2 gears for any length of time, it,ll overheat
cos plenty of revs, no much air flow thru rad,and wide open throttles mek,n plenty of heat.
plus ne oil cooler,
But hosses for courses, pintl,n an potter,n aboot, fine for ne shrould, ne oil cooler, an half fins missing / blocked off.
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It fizzys quite nicely, and after 3 rinses I had a heed an block back to bare metal.
cleaned oot every bit of crud,rust there was
And it works even better if it hot, the hotter the better, can even dilute it alot moer than normal
BUTT, word of warning, it will also clean the core plugs of crud protection,
so may weel fin that thee,s will start t,leak if no been replaced
Re over heating, most ive come across is cos the rad is no shrouded
and if fins ont rad are deformed, flattened agenst rad, then air cant get thru it as good
bit of a prob fitt,n a shroud on a VIT, but on a GT, its a must, top,sides an bottom all enclosed
so all that comes thru grill,goes thru rad
M
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Nope, If ye got a single rail mainshaft, use a single rail OD adaptor, slightly modded so 1 inch longer shaft will fit simples.
And, ive seen adaptors that no need a wee mod, as longer / thickerr than Dolly 3 rail, but same shape, so nee mod to top bit needed -
Why any body would want t,use a single rail is beyond me,
its bigger, heavier, totally numb t,work on, and no as good a shift
Bung yer bits into a 3 rail case
M
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drill thru shaft, its easy
then loctite in,
I,d be look,n at the needles under a magnifying glass.
then yee,l see pits in em,
they cheep enough t,replace, so replace em
And, whilst yer at it, bung a front thrust wesher in the back,
it,ll be same size as thrust face, so will be 100% cover
as agenst 70% cover oft original wee,n
need t,check the end of laygear for ridges, remove ridges, so its flat
file,grind, back of thicker thrust so its a good fit into box and layshaft
then file either side oft tang doon aboot an 1/8th inch, so that 1st gear no touches bigger thrust
Note, used gears, dont always give a good syncro actionee
as the steel cones wear, so yee,l need a decent supply of sync cones t,get the best match
or biggest gap between gear face an back of sync cone
As all sync cones are no the same, slight variances, so ive fun oot.
the gap in 2nd gear and gap in 1st gear hub, fill both wid v cold SLD lube
it,ll stop the split collars frae drop,n oot, which saves ye tek,n it t,bits agen
dont use grease.. same for the needles too, plenty of cold SLD t,hod the needles in spot
and a dummy mainshaft is a must, or needles can, and doo drop oot, then wen ye put shaft in, then its most likely a full strip doon agen, unless ye can re fit the needles in situ,
hard , but dooable
and turn gb upside doon t,fit layshaft assembly, as gravity is better than a bit of wire pull,n gears up.
Meb,e some use t,ye an others.
M
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Using EP140 in the diff sounds interesting. But I would expect the higher viscosity would be a problem in overdrive gearboxes and could make the overdrive slower/reluctant to engage.
Nope, i use it in me ODs, and it goes in / oot ne probs at all.
the 85/140 is just like use,n a 20/50 engine oil really,
supposedly thinner when cold, supposedly thicker when hot
It ne probs at all drill,n diff in situ
drill a 5/16 / 8mm first, oil will no fly oot all owa the spot,
meb,e a wee dribble doon the drill bit, honest.
then drill bigger, either a taper or a straight thread.
taper is best, as dont ev t,worry about the base sealing
GB sump plugs ok they got a magnet in em
yer fill plug, bung one in thea as wee,l it,ll catch moer sheite
as ive found oot
Fill,n it, get yer selves yan of thee,s handy thing,ys
very handy they are
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Its no a hard job t,drill the diff for a plug,
And, regardless of use, change yer oil every year,
oil is cheeper than a diff
Olde diff oil, full of water, car not used much is a recipe for disaster
most diffs I get exchange are useless due to water / contaminants int oil
eating away the parts that sit in oil when not in use,
no just the CW / P, but bearings, inc half shaft,ns, totally shot at.
And, as Nick says, a long run will fry the oil,
the Comma stuff is total sheite, goes black after 500 miles of high speed use
plus when its hot, its like thin pish
Use 140 Penrite fully synth pro gear oil, it last alot longer
dont go black, an end up like thin pish
me self, 2-3 times a year, depending on where I been, what been doing.
Dont change yer oil, then dont expect the surcharge that likes of Rimmers, Moss, charge to be given back,
its getting that bad, as no much left to re use.
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If yer low on oil,itll slip, as in OD coming in / oot
but this will be felt.
Overdrive will slip in reverse, had it me self, was also slipp,n in forad gears
AND, this was with a new re done cone clutch
took it oot, n left it for ages,
And, just took the aforementioned OD t,bits an hour ago, cos im re dooing it,
and both frictione clutches are loose, spinning on steel carrier
glue has de bonded or what ever its called
reason it just slips noo an then is maybe cos
1, no much load on
2 it sort of binds on whenst stopped as springs will pul it in, then suction takes owa for a wee while till it breaks loose
Ive just been fart,n aboot seeing why it would sometimes work and other not
this only thing I can see, or sumise.
took a few pics for the non believers,!!
bung em up later on
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ne idea of the cam, ruff idle, ye say
try and find out what the gaps are, if they std,
then an aftermarket cam wont run reet at all, will doo all the things ye say its upto
most will be at 16-24 gaps, but it,ll sound like a bag of bolts ina tin with them gaps
also, aftermarket cams generally need moer idle speed
Wont start, try not pulling choke oot as much , as too much fuel for too little an air speed !!
think overlap
tighten no 1 cyls gaps right up
then turn engine, see wen inlet / ex opens, and what lift they have
it,ll give some folk on here an idea wot ye got cam wise
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just under the dor check strap hole int door pilla, there another hole,
in this a 2 1/2 inch high spec speaker can be fitted
I fitted 2, an they quite good
other optionee is just after door pillars,
there a re cess, some decent sized speakers can be fitted there
{ drivers side a wee bit diff, as yer hoof may interfeer with it !! }oblong speakers will keep it out the way though
ye doo no that the speakers need t,match the rad or what evers output !!
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With the OE set up, t,adjust cable ye gotta tek the clevis pin oot.
that can be fight its self if split pin is rusted in
Aint got it on yet, but can see its muchess bettus than an OE set up
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Ello Nick,
the bay of fleas, same seller
if ye got a boat yard near, then they will ev,m
they used for rigging,
available in various sizes.
prob could fine em cheeper, but could,nt be arsed at time
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If any one intrested in mod,n their HB cable and other useless fittings
then ev a read this,
Been tinkerating agen, and mainly cos im on non standard rear brakes,
and also cos the darn OE set up just rusts away, loks solid every time ye want to adjust,or sort cables oot
not to mention the faff it is getting a new cable thru the guides ona GT
I decided t,go this route,
a swageless turnbuckle, marine grade SS, so should neva rust,or get stuck
easy t,adjust, easy t,put cable thru, as its just a bare cable, no threaded end bit,
cables noo SS too , so no moer snapped cables due t,rust
so ended up wid this set up noo
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Swageless-Closed-Body-Turnbuckle-Fork-Terminal-Stainless-Steel-T316-1-8-cable/223439587854?hash=item3406098a0e:m:mnXeIxLT0GGslvaFRZO_JEw
Butt, cos I cant get any thing like this int Englandshire, and no gonna pay extortionate import costs,
I went this way
pics 1, an 2
got 2 each of thee,s, took the end of each, and fitted it into the turnbuckle, t,get a toggle on ya end
and a clamp on the other end
so ended up wid item in last pic
the clamp bit is a 3 jaw wid teeth, so it gets a real good grip on cable
meb,e of intrest to some of you laddsM
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Cat amongst Pidgeons time me tinks
comp test, some folk turn engine owa say 6 or 8 times, and watch readings creep higher
wid every comp stroke
this t,me is useless, it gives ye a false feeling yer CR good
what is the most important thing, is the first jump oft needle,
if it hardly moves, then doo it agen, as it was likely on comp stroke t,set of wid,
Whenst yer engines running, it dont get 6 or 8 goes t,get compressionee up befoer plug fires now does it,
if it did, it would be going like a rocket
If it jumps t,say 100 PSI on first jump, then its got good cr
Best way t,doo a comp test is a running comp test
this can show all sorts of things amiss if throttles are blipped, snapped, WOT,d, and, idles.
Idle should be about same as static test on first jump
read an digest
http://imperialclub.com/Repair/Engine/dynamic.htm
there loadsa other out there, even You tube
Ohh, if it is down a wee bit, give it some stik,
around max torque, hold it there in top gear, WOT, either up a steep hill, or wid brakes on,
at least 5/6 times or a mile or so distance , really give it some stik
the pressure generated in cyls will blow alot of crap away, and will get behint the rings and maybe force
em into walls t,clean glaze off, or re bed a turned ring, yes they doo move aboot alot.
M
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Any one in the farr north west { Carlisle area } ,or southern / borders Scotchlandshire area
then big car event on at Moffat on Sunday 30th June
generally quite a few Ts there too
Cylinder Head Gasket Oil Leaks
in Engine
Posted
It is, cos the pipes too small,
as said, mek em bigger.
FYI, ive run PI, for 30 odd yers, an first thing I did was tek that darn flame trap off,
never ever had a bang,
M