GT6M
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Posts posted by GT6M
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If after all yer fart,n aboot, an still no got a good pedal,
then try thee,s tips
1, get yer self a solid spacer for frunt suspension, stops the shaft flexing, meks it solid.
2, get / mek yer self an adjustable push rod,that goes into the MC
3, check that yer pivot points in MC/push rod / brake pedal , clevis pin, are all ok, not worn or ovalled.
all the wee bits of wear all add up.
4, a Bigger MC will reduce pedal travel, but increased leg muscles will be required, no that much though.
5, Get 2 RPVs, one for frunts 2 LBS an one for,t rear, 10 LBS
this will keep a pressure int lines, so no let pads or what ever sneek off.
M
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also, there ne syncro on rev,
so ift rev idler is worn, an the gear too,
then it,ll jump oota reverse
some { most gears an hubs } are so worn, there nee teeth as such left
so check yer gears an hub.
rev hubs are hard t,get, rev gear aint so bad, though
M
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if yer heaters no as hot as ye want it t,be
then a a couple of wee mods I did, meks it even better
1, int heater inlet box, I fed a ally heat tube into it,
t,other end is onto the rear ex mani stub,
this meks heater blow warmer air sooner for de,misting,
as heat oft mani is faster than the water
Also, cos heater aint suck,n in v v cold air, then heater works better too.
2, int water pump , just underneath the termostat, { If the 4,s are same as the 6,s pump housing, !! }
there a wee wol, this lets hot water go into impellor bit, and then into the pipe feed,n the heater.
in the cast iron type, this wee wol corrodes up, so v little hot water gets t,recirculate,
I med the hole bigger than it should be, so get moer heat into heater matrix.
M
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All ye lot that got a comp, store this in yer favs folders,
its link i was gonna bung up, but was on me other comp, so could,nt
its a hive of info, by folk woe ev had problemo,s
an backed up by the author / owner oft site
https://www.about-air-compressors.com/troubleshooting-your-compressor.html
M
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it could be the ..run capacitor, bigg roundy white thingy inside where thermal cut oot is.
or it could be the thermal cut oot strip,
its inside the switch bit,
tek apart, an look for burning, clean an re assemble
it sorted mine oot.
M
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there a a bigg diff in syncros frae each other,
me own box, { Dolly 1850 / Mrina, TR7 } I tried 20 odd,
this t,get the biggest rear end gap,
some were 10-12 thou
sorted 4 oot wid 40-55 thou gaps
It also depends on yer actual gear too,
as the gears cones either wear,or they undersize t,start wid,
same too f,the TR / Saloon type
also best t,blue up the cone, see where its actually fit,n
some dont fit v weel at all,
as alot of,em seem ..oot of round !!
M
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thats v v wimpish hill,
be a gud,n for a hillclimb though
although no an A roads, no even a B roads,
there quite a few B roads aroond here, as steep, but no as long
But Hardnot an Wryno,s are C roads, they quite a challenge t,cars
but even moer so fora Bus !!!
can tell ye all now, It did,nt doo it, as the really bad bends start frae there onwards!!
as its hard enough ina car,
an Van
It really is steep, an this van aint even got to the .. err lets say, the good bits,!!
3.25 is where the van got stuck, list to engine note an tyre squeel,
there 3 passes all in same area
an 4 others wid,in a few miles
Ohh, just mek sure yer oil level is OK
M
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this is a common problemo, really caused not by the springs,
but the shockers, all shockers for the cars are too long by at least an inch
this why yer cars showing so much pos camber whenst jacked up
alter yer shocks to an inch less, and yee,l get better suspension movement
M
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there maybe something in this really
as Ive seen 100,s of the thinner bars
3 on my own cars, the others on others I worked on,
plus bars that wer off
all the thinner ones wer bent, all about 1/2 to 3/4 inch
nin of the thicker ones ive seen wer bent
Now then, them that say its no possible, then I ask ye all to go tek yours of
and report back saying if its bent or not
it seems so strange that all of the bars ive seen are bent
lots of others have said there bent
lots of pictures show there bent
so wots causing the bend, defective metal, poor workmanship, poor tempering,the actuall mould bent,
look at yer front springs, O|E or aftermarket, they all got a bend in em,
that bend comes out whenst they been off for a wee while
but the ARB dont, so I dont think its metal fatigue
M
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Dave, i think yeel fin the section on ex mani tuning intrestimg
after 1000,s spent and ends up wid some thing diff to the norm, for a couple of hp !!
M
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furtha t,Mikes bit, aboot wear in bits, ,
wear also can be in the clutch forks pins, thee,s either side oft fork
Also, if yer thrusts are worn int engin, then put,n foot ont clutch pedal ,
it also pushes the whole clutch an flywheel forads, so this too meks up free play.
all this free play adds up to alot of lost movement
can start tinkeratin, an sort yer self an adjustable clutch M/C rod oot.
quite easy t,doo, and its amazing just hoo much free play is actually lost in this area.
Also, a bigger M/C will also work wonders, at cost of a slightly harder pedal push
M
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thee,s
http://www.dfaulknersprings.com/acatalog/2.5-Inch-ID-8-Inch-Free-Length-Standard-Spring.html
or thee,s
http://www.dfaulknersprings.com/acatalog/2.25-Inch-ID-8-Inch-Free-Length-Standard-Spring.htm
If yer running 220 LB springs, then there summat amiss wid yer idea of a decent ride
Im now running 1200,lb,ers, after trying 800, 900, 1000, and its alot better ride than any thing else ive tried.
but need shocks t,match,
I gave a olde set of 600,s { meb,e doon t,500 ish with age !! } to a bloke on here, he said they were fine,
contrary to what all others had said.
On yours Rich, wid engine set back a wee bit, 900-1000 lb,ers wid re valved shocks will be just right,!!
M
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can always go bigger, even go metric coarse.
OR, get some aally typerodsthat melt wid a blow lamp,
they melt befoer the parent metal, hard an as strong as the original stuff
it really is as simple as this couple of clips shows
thees ar,t rods, ive done loadsa stuff wid em, they v v good.
Or, Ye need some of thee,s bolts,
very handy things they are,!!!
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Thanks Ladds, but was no here, but another site thats havin trouble,
lots of posts, whole threads deleted to appease ..foreign agents!!
no been there, , no intention of goin there,
to me,it seems as if the nationals,or infiltrators of a certain Terrorist nation shout,
then they get their way, every thing gets took down cos it offends them,
it offends me, { and others, as lots of my friends have not been there either ,for years, told so in PMs, Emails. calls. } that they get away with it, and for the gutless folk that act on their behalf to get stuff removed.
no doubt thIs,l be took doon for speaking the truth, even though it did,nt happen here.!!!
M
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Dissalusioned wid the Mr PCs, Pete
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Petes correct in his tinki,n,
its the easiest method I use and very quick too
nee need for spring lifters,
M
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it,ll still tek a good few secs for oil light t,go oot
its not as pronounced as ona a 6 pot, but its still there
filer will looose a wee bit owa time, but nee where near as much as a single filter,
main cause really is the oil gallery , it empties quite quickly, this then es t,be filled up agen ..befoer the oil light will go oot.
dont believe me, then tek an oil galley plug oot after say an hour,or even 20 mins, there nee oil at all in thea
Markusumps,or Accysumps whats needed
Ohh, there was a good long thread owa ont CT site a few yers back,
a few of us tried all sorts an got diff results
http://club.triumph.org.uk/cgi-bin/forum10/Blah.pl/Blah.pl?m-1373532310/s-15/
M
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I,ll churp in wid me findings owa the years
1, tried some 10-60 Castrol Edge, fully synth,
right away, oil pressure was down 10 PSI, got even worse at higher oil temps, 100 ish
down t,40 PSI at 4k revs, and 30 at 2000
no only that, but used 4 litres ona 600 mile round trip,
And, a week later, me beloved cam went belly up, 4 lobes, gone
cam followers too,
never again, plus the gap is just too bigg for comfort, like a 50 gap,!!!
2, used Commas and others 20'50 mineral oils, they OK for tootling aboot
give em some serious stik, like sustained high revs for a few hours, they brek doon v v v fast indeed
so much so, oil pressure can drop 20 PSI in a month. yikes.
3, ran some Penrite stuff, 20/60, oil press stopped good, even whenst hot., butt did tend t,drop off a wee bit, 10 PSI ish after 3K miles
4, got some R20 /60 fully PAO synth stuff for a go, as it were a low price t,let me try it
its got 2,200 PPM , and this stuff just dont go off, even at high temps, and 3K plus miles, its still as fresh an as high a PSI reading as whenst bunged in,
been useing it noo for 2 yers, never use owt else from noo on
The flat tappets an cam really need a good thick oil I think,
no cam gone wid this stuff, but ev done cams in wid others 20'50 and a 10/60 full synth
Same too for their GB oils, they last, dont go off like all other ive tried,
look at the oil after a 100 mile blat at W1+ and its still fresh, an fresh after 3K miles
not blak, an like a thin pish like all the others
they just broke doon wid the 200 ish deg heat that was in the diff
Re the graphs earlier on,
some thing no right aboot them, like a 20 W oil is same viscosity as a 50W oil at 100 degs, errr noooooo, I say.
granted they better at lower temps, but is thinner oil better wid flat tappets.
Look at the Yanks an their V8 flat tappets, they wont run it thin, UNLESS they running full roller valve train.
that says some thing, as the horror stories on likes of ST was vast
and this coming frae engine builders too/
As to it teks time t,get around the engine, I got a Markusump fitted, fully oils me engine in secs
like 40-60 PSI befoer it even started up, great it is.
M
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use 2 nd gear, its on the same cluster as rev
dip clutch in 2nd, the go fer reverse, it,ll go in
another sign ontop of wot Petes said, is too high an idle speed
hence the need t, engage a gear, dip clutch, then rev
M
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OD probs are mainly elektikery related
the D Type es an adjustment for the solonoid push rod
if it has come loose, it,ll no go in, maybe a wee bit wen cold, then as it gets hot, it drops oot
other is the relay on the bulkheed
the contacts inside it can become dirty.
open it up, quite easy, bend tabs back, an it all comes apart
then check the contacts
infact, go all along the electrical wires, tug,n an push,n, see if there a dry joint
or water / moisture corrosion in em
Butt, first, check its got oil init
another way, Is if the OD comes oot going doon a steepish hill, then its low on oil
as oil is all noo int g box
If it stops in whenst going up,t hill, then its showing that its oil related
as all oil will noo be in the OD end, t,the detriment of the GB
M
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I put loot onit that the plate es parted frae the linings
does it mek a rattling sound,!!
like this, ive had a few of em
done by dropping the clutch wid stikkeee tyres !!!
M
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Note, a GT swinger is a fair bit sitter than a Spitty swinger
the bottom 2 leafs are alott thicker than a Spittys
most likely ye got a Spitty swinger
M
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It seems OK,ish,....IF the thing es been tried under load, and no just spun owa
under load, loading the CW,wid a bigg prybar, or wack,n a chisel between CW,case
as the tooth contact can move alott, like some times 1/4 inch
all depends as weel on hoo much pree load ye got on side an pin bearings
as too loose, then pattern changes all owa
Its a used diff, and they div,nt always go according t,plan !!!!
Look at the tooth contacts on drive, not all teeth at the same
this is common whenst no under load
the coast side markings are a worry t,me, farr too far doon
which indicates Pins set too low
blue it up, really load it up, an turn it owa, get a marra t,help ye if cant hold an turn at same time
its a 1 1/8th socket, an use a decent sized breaker bar,
Div,nt jerk it, just turn it
NOTE, if its a Nylok nut onit, its a collapse spacer, TOOO much turning force CAN tighten the spacer doon even moer
if it is, be care full, DOT mark the nut,Pin shaft so ye no if its moved
turm it owa a few times, like 20 turns t,get a really good pattern
then see if the pattern is same as whenst it were on no load,
It should be markedly different
IF the pattern on Drive goes UP the tooth, no where near bottom, an running oft top, then this confirms pins too low
and needs shims added under either Pin heed, or pin bearing, wid corresponding shims under spacer
can also alter the in / oot pattern too.
bung some piks up after ye done it so I can see,
M
Looking at a Service Pit for my Vitesse
in Tools
Posted
How do ye jack things up with oot crack,n the pit !!!
and what happens whenst things are dropped to pit floor !!
but still, muchess better than nowt at all.
well done
M