GT6M
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Posts posted by GT6M
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yer no dooing it reet ole bean
put yer bearing cups like this \ / then tap em verticle,
and yer carrier will drop in, simples it is it is,!!
M
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Ye dont need a spreader, just spread the bearings !!!
re 140 oil, use the Penrite 85/140, thin at cold, thicjens whenst hot,
best ive ever used. 20£ for 2 litres frae Dave Parker at Classic group
fully syhthetic too.
oil is cheeper than diff, change yearly, mine get change 2 some thins 3 a year.
re whine, its V V hard t,shift a whine ona olde diff
teeth ev worn into each other, shift,n em even a few thou meks it whine.
bloke on TR forum had a perfect pattern, coast an drive, ubder loadings too,
he thought he,d cracked it, it still whined.
Rodger had same problemo, started efter it wer re done,
Me own spent hours onit, it whines at 55-70, then goes away,
every things tight, nee sideways movement on carrier.
running up wid a drill dont let ye hear a whine, but it does owt else
ye can be talk,n of a 1-2 thou pin shime, or same ont carrier bit.
it really is trial an error I finn,n oot on worb olde units.
Main culprits is olde diff oil full of contaminants, an bits of metal wizz,n about int oil, as ye no got a plug init,
nor a magnet ont fill plug, which collects moer sheite than a sump plug does.
re fill,n,
get yer sels yan of thee,s, great wee thingys, shop aboot, they maybe like how the Little Birdy sings,
I did fin, an also a fellow GT marra fun the same,
the red poly bushes at frunt did give a resonance at higher speeds.
M
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Dave, next time in yer car, get it warm,ish,
use 3 rd, foot ont brake an foot flat t,the floor
around abouts 3-3500 RPMS,
hold it there for a while,
or fin a bigg hill, and doo same, a few times/
this,l build some pressure up int cyles, and get gasses b,hint the rings,
idea is t,get the rings t,get pushed into bore, and maybe burn off some glaze.
M
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Ello Rodgerguzzi an all, , no no aboot racing type, but me Brothers Ladd Dan,the Pocket Rocket,
fitted one set ages ago to his speedway bike,
then decided t,get springs for,t bottom half, crankase end,
this meks it really go, , dont even use petrol whenst its warmed up either, !
only snag is, it wont turn off,
as bottom springs just keep playing tennis wid the top set,
gotta put it in gear, an let clutch oot, with foor ont brakes, !!!!
M
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After me brother put thees into a bike, me mams car has em too as standard,
i am going to fit em to the GT, as it,ll mek engine run better, they quite a reasonable price too.
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1 minute ago, thescrapman said:
Fill the boot with bags of sand or gravel or similar and go for a long and hopefully undulating drive.
that will soon settle out
Better still ga roond t,Cols Emporium, an load up wid allsorts of essential goodies He got for our cars !!!
M
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thats nowt, sit init, drive it, then check wid weight still init
extra Person t,check while 2 still init, it,ll be alot diff im sure.
M
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Rich, They need sealing, or oiling, oiling on a regular basis,
IF the car is used alot, esp int wet / damp. if not got decent seals in spot.
reason, the bushes meb,e stainless, { wrong grade in my mind for us lot woe live ont coast }
but the bolts aint, so they get a coating of something on em, an then stik fast. believe me, they stik, even moer so than an OE bush,
dissimilar metals ye no,!!
even some nylon weshers, wid oot the O rings like on mine will seal better than the useless metal things
they just dont stop moisture seep,n doon the ends, and into the VL an wishbone holes /bushes an bolts.
the nylon weshers can be med a tight fit between VL an wishbone, tap em in wid a wee hammer,
then whenst bolts tightend up, it will draw the ends oft wishbone in a bit further, so mek,n a total seal
whilst its off, it just teks a short time t,dee what I did, and all problemos are solved
even got em on me shocker mounts , infact there every where,!!!
nowt moer grrrrrrr-able than coming t,do a 10 min job, an yer at it 3 days !!
M
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Every body should ev a selectione of thee,s hard t,git bolts,
come in v v handy
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it is a great move t,drill the VL an tap it 5/16,
2 a side, just next t,the VLs legs, going onto the bolt carrier,
also same on top of each lower arm bushing,
on thee,s it needs t,go thru the inner bush,
then just fit a blank plug t,the outer,ns, ora grease nipple.
the VL is diff, as bolts need t,grip the lang bolt, so it dont move
this cos most oft VLs, the hole is worn at ends,, this stops the play.
Also, every noo an then, tek bolts oot an oil, turn bolt t,get oil thru the VL
Niva ed a rusted in bolt in mine all thee,s years
this ont olde set up.
seal,n an note wee wol in inner end
modded bolts an bush fer oil flow
nipples on bushes
meb,e some use t,ye, t,stop yer bolts an bushes rust,n in situ
M
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dont tek olde bushes oot,
just wak em deeper in, then fit new,ns
it,ll give ye a bit moer support, as noo ye got twice area t,spread loadings
worked well for me,
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i cant see shorter shafts mek,n a dff,
as the vl,s should move t,suit spring
me own car, the car sat high for nearly a year.
it,ll settle, but it,ll tek time.
butt, try it wid 2 folk an some stuff int boot, see what thats like
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Mek yer own Nick,
either brass rod,or stainless,
drill a wee wol in each end, and fit some R clips
simples really, its wot I did,when the original mild steel type rotted away
M
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Gav, get a drill an drill a wol in bottom of diff.
there a flat area where a plug used t,go on early cars.
drill a 1/4 or so wol first, then a bigger,n
try an get a sump plug of a gearbox, or better still 2, one for,t fill plug, this,l catch moer sheite than the sump plug will.
G/B plug,, this cos they got magnets in em,
then whenst wols drilled, tap it to size needed
there will be little oil comes oot the drilled hole, but it wont gush oot.
then re fill wid 80/140 fully synth penrite gear oil, 20£ for 2 litres of http://www.classicgroup.net.nz/product_pcid_344.html
or ringo starr Dave on 0739 159 0149
it dont go off like all the others doo
try,n t,suck the oil oot just dont work
as casing will moer than likely have a 1/4 inch of thick crudded baked on oil init, { ever took a sump off, modern or olde, its same stuff }
maybe even lots of mayonaise stuff, which then pits yer internals whenst they sitt,n in the stuff for ages
OIL is cheeper than a diff,, or a rebuild
M
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Not tried it, then dont nok it, as I got
ne de mist problemo,s
nee cabin smells,, if yer get,n engine nasties, then yer engines no as it should be,
sort it, by fix,n oil leaks,or keep,n yer engine clean, ye lot doo wesh yer engines regularly I hope, !!
and ne extra noise I can tell of either,
extra pros,
stops one wiper flapping at warp 1 plus, even whenst wipers at rest
also stops yer bonnet flap,n at W1+
also keeps yer car frae going light an vague steering at W1+
If folks seal aint touch,n the bonnet, then either yer bonnets no fitted right,
or yer seal is Kaput
never run a seal in 30 odd yer, no gonna start noo an go back t, overheated fuel lines, ruff running in hot weather,
engine conk,n oot in slow traffic, I even made lip on bulkheed taper forads t,45 ish degs too, so as t,mek gap bigger.
never suffered heat problems after a few wee mods., unlike alot of folk,woe have well documented them on forums.
PI,s are moer effected than carbs , { TR5/6s as well as a GT PI }
why do folk fit carb sheilds on engines , as if air can get oot, they wont suffer.
Vits are maybe a wee bit diff to a GT,or Herald/Spitty as no much room at the front,
as another big no no is the lack of a working shroud roond the rad,
as a fair bit oft air is going aroond rad, no thru it,
esp if yer rad cores are full of squashed up wee beasties block,n the flow of air,
or half yer fins are no there, or are actually block,n air flow them selves !!
the other thing is the electric fans, most ev a massive big flat motor bit int middle,
this stops air frae getting either thru rad if at front, or stops it get,n oot of rad if fitted t,engine side.
most moderns ev alot wider rads, so this aint a prob,
but whenst motors tek,n say a 6 inch circle up, then it becomes a problemo on a narrow rad.
Another prob i see wid our cars,, bigger engined type suffer moer so, as theres little reserve capacity whenst its hot befoer temp rises fast,
is they got an electric fan fitted, , but DONT switch it on whenst coming into slow traffic,or stationary traffic,
esp on a warm day, untill its too late, an their engines conk oot.
Switch it on, it,ll shift all the hot air int bonnet area, , as can be seen by the gale coming frae me vents an bonnet ends
only saying what ive actually found oot, and use.
if it wer,nt any good, it would,nt be used,
Butt, if just pottering aboot, a 5 mile run, 30-40, an 60 mph tops, dont bother as standard set up is ok
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Its no so much as get,n air in , as get,n it oot the bonnet yance its in,
try tek,n the rubber strip oft bulkhead for starters, it works wonders, esp at speed
M
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10 hours ago, Guppy916 said:
well don't keep us all in suspense what did you do
Did ye read, or look at second link of the 2 that i bunged up,
its on thea, last posting
if ye go this route, then it can be med for 5-8£ , if ye got the bits int shed
IF ye doo it yer self, only cost is a valve,
ne bits at all, meb,e 40£
buy a ready med,n, then they sell for 400£ plus
M
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I have read the thread, and no where does it say that yer noises stopped,
I got my convertor and filter from the club shop. Later I bought 4 filters as 4 have the same postage as one. The installation sits at an angle of around 45 degrees and it doesn't drain back, even after a winter lay off. A lot of worry about drain back, but the engines were designed with it and the only thing really wrong is the dreadful clatter. I wonder if a short filter is as efficient/effective as a longer one?
Doug
Pray tell me where ye say that the engine noses stopped,, cant see it in the re read thread ye said re read,!!!
And this bit,
The installation sits at an angle of around 45 degrees and it doesn't drain back, even after a winter lay off
A winter layoff, and yet still oil int engine oil system,.
Errr, I,ll say noooooo way , as others have said, an thee,s folk are in the no, some quite alott so too.
I would love, and im sure others would too as weel,
just how was the T engines made t,run wid nee oil,
Never ever seen that written any where,
never even heard it befoer noo
pray tell which engineer or so called engineer,or so called specialist, said such a ridiculous thing
the omly sure way t,stop the oil delay after a few days or week is the thingy I got fitted,
and which I med a few others for others cars,
some med em them selves,
40+ PSI after 4-6 secs whenst switched on, wid engine NOT running,
M
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if there a lip on bottom edge, like wots shown on the flange / port pic
then this,l help a long duration cam work alot better at low revs
even better wid an ..inner pipe stub..
Janspeed used t,mek CV ex manis like this, an a ford or datsun engine was coming on cam 1000 rpms earlier
reason alot of ports ar D shaped is for space saving, that all.
this only ref i got of them, but give ye the idea,
its a little bit doon page
http://www.alfaboxertuning.fws1.com/custom4.html
M
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only engines that,l run wid nee oil on shells are roller bearing type.
Doug, if it dont drain back, then wots this awfull clatter that yer hearing,
its yer engine slowly wearing its sel away,!!
Its quite easy t, change threads,so moer filters available
Gupps on the right track,
Butt, its no just the oil in filter an its housing, its the oil in the gallery,
that half roond bit, sit,n just above filter an running all way along engine,
It drains out, an also teks time t fill up,
thats why a rattle can still be heared AFTER the oil light is just gone oot,
as oil has just put the OPS out, but oil aint got t,the bearings yet.
A verticle filter helps here, as the oil pump is just fill,n half the adaptor, and not the filter
angled filter empty owa time,
Not only that, but them adaptors wid oil teks offs, are an engines executioner if fitted wid the 3/8th 10mm tails,
oil pump is 15 mm t,filter, so yer just strangling the oil flow
a couple of threads here for them no up onit
https://club.triumph.org.uk/menu/7909/item/43830/view?messagepage=1
https://club.triumph.org.uk/menu/6023/item/460493/view
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can also be brek,n doon plug leads,
easy test, wet yer hands, an plugs leads, then grip em,
if they brek,n doon, soon start t,be a Morris dancer, he,heee,heeee
M
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Yes club shop may ev thee,s,, an others filters fit, but they are the wrong type,
its not the filter required
the filter required on a GT /Vitt is the small one, that will fit vertically
thee,s others dont, they sit at 45 or so degs
then folk wonder why the oil light teks so long t,go oot.
its cos yer loosing all yer oil oot the filter.
the Original adaptor for the GT / Vit was angled oot wards frae the engine, which meant a bigger filter could be used,
as the longer filter, wid the angled adaptor ..missed.. the chassis rail
but some where along the line, it was done away wid, and just the type for the saloon / TR 5/6 was left.
which is all wrong for a GT / Vit
thee,s cars ev plenty of room fora bigg filter sitt,n vertically.
M
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If memory severve me reet,
then the filter t,use was one fora reliant,
thee,s filters wer about 2 inch high, so it could be fitted vertically doonwards,
no on a jaunty angle as most others are, cos the chassis is int road of it.
there quite a few diff filters ont market, but wid a different bolt size for filters
so ye may be better of change,n the bolt t,the moer modern filters that are lower, if ye cant find one.
this type only 74 mm deep, but need an adapter as its an M 20 thread.
this,n only 58 mm deep, agen, M20 thread.
its really best t,git yer oil filter hanging doonwards., so it dont drain oot as much.
M
Gt6 mk3 sports exhaust??
in Engine
Posted
alot depends on wot yer end pipes are
my original Falcon ex, noo been on 30 odd years { with a few mods !! } has got silencers in the exit pipes.
quite alot of the others aint got this
some even have a recurved lip, all this does is narrow yer pipes an sap power !!
re middle box, a 3 3/4 inch wide box / pipe can be fitted,
or in my case, a 4 inch pipe sqeezed up on its side !
IF, ye get an adjustable spanner an turn the ends of the chassis rails doon t,90 degs
this,l give nearly 4 inches of play
this,l give another 3/4 or so inches t,play with
mines quite quiet wid 2 rear boxes, { re packed with loadsa sound absorbing stuff } and a 4 inch x 3 foot center bit
Note, stainless steel dont like salt air an heat.,!! but, better stainless dont mind it, marine grade.
also as Doug says, the innards are not stainless,just MS
one oft best mods I did, was t,stop rain get,n into boxes whenst outside,
this wee mod will help, and, Im sure it actually med a wee dif to the noise at diff speeds,
but on 4K revs at noise testing on hillclimbs, its only 85 DBs, thats quite quiet really
this,l be what yer packing will be like,or worse
and the rotted inner baffle
re screwed t,gether, an sealed, 2 hours tops
maybe of some intrest t,some
M