GT6M
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Posts posted by GT6M
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biggest problemo in sustained High rpm stuff is no1 bearing running dry
a few things can be done t,sort it though,
bar that, the 2L is a revver so short burst there really should,nt doo ne harm
just use good oil, change oil an filter moer often, adjust rockers moer often
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any one intrested, this is a bargain so far
if yer garage is big enough
it set off at 99p
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meb,e a bit OTT,
but thee,s are straight body
so when in car, they will be at an angle at filler cap
OE is at an angle
so top is flat wid the fluid
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Sorry for late respondo Col,
if took to 6K then its 61
but short burst to 6.5 is 66
An yep, a few sprints an a few Hillclimbs
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use P2G
up to 25 kgs, its about 11-20£ depending on currier
over it, its quote a bit moer
and time of month !!
M
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Been tinkerating away for a while,
and fitted a bigger OD pump an plunger t,the J type I got in.
plus a uprated clutch lining to the OD
cos im using it in 1st gear, it used to be a few secs t,come in, a few secs is alot of revs in 1st
IE OD at 3000 rpms, and it was coming in at aboot 5500 ish
so can now change into od at 5000 and its in at 5300 .thats fast
its faster than the original in 4th !!
4 th gear comes in so fast noo , like befoer the buttons finished its click !!
even at low revs, like 1000 rpms, its instant
OD spares sell em, but ye gotta tek the thing apart t,fit it
as pump drive goes over main shaft.
well worth mod if yer tek,n yer box t,bits
for v little extra expense
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Errr, what ye set,n em too, !!
if its book figure, forget it
unless ye know for certain that its correct !!
set em at 6 thou, it,ll be about spot on on an olde worn engine
that is,if its an olde worn rocker set up !!
M
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thats cos yer trying t,start it with it,
it should only energise the relay,or solonoid,
NOT the actual starter.
a real handy bit of kit for adjusting rockers it isAlso v v handy for compressione readings
M
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a towel, soaked in turps /parrafin then hung owa the area
cover towel wid a plastic bin bag, let it soak away t,get at the tar if its really stuck on
give it a while, re dosing frae the top noo an then
..Note, excess rub,n will and can leave marks int pent,
as tar could ev bits of grit init of road, which is moer than likly
hence the leave it t,soak actionee
then whenst soaked and its soft,
a dish of the aforementioned above stuff
a soft pent brush
start at top and work yer way doon
bung some catch tanks or dishes underneath, then can re use the stuff thats dribbled doon {after its gone thru a seive of sorts }
whenst all off, then give a good wesh with hot water / detergent t,get the residue away
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Yes it can get stuck, if pressure cant go back.
but also if the big snap ring ont end of sliding member comes adrift
{ bit like 3 rd gear clip coming loose int box }
then it,ll stop in OD an wont come back oot at all.
M
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nowt unusual here really
that stud is near a water jacket hole
prob due t,rust or age related wear,n tear, loss of torque ont nut
water under pressure has found its way t,the stud.
whats worry,n t,me is that that stud could noo be stuck solid in the head
cos of the rust on stud an head.
If yer no that bothered, loctite the nut an washer in spot
if like me worried, then try an take stud oot, see if its free
If it comes oot, fine, clean up, re insert and loctite nut an wesher in spot
if it wont budge, then ye got probs when heed needs t,come off,
as lots of cyl heeds wont come off at all, even hang,n weight oft car on them
and some serious wacks with a BFCH !!
M
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Errr lets get this right,
ye say cant go in or oot of gear,correct.
yer think,n its clutch, correct
well, ye dont need a clutch t,change up or doon the box
clutch wont stop a gear lever shift,n between gears
noo if it wer crunch,n whenst going into gears, then thats a clutch problemo
providing that yer syncros aint worn doon
basicly, ye can go up doon box ont move wid nee clutch
just a matter of timing changes right
Its most likely int inner links inside top oft box
real pain in the but t,wurk on them stupid 1 rails
M
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If yer cars pulling t,ya side, IE pull t,left,
then its no that side caliper at fault,
its t,other side caliper
I see yer saying that its off side { right , drivers } took t,bits though, correct
but give yer pads an discs a good check,
rusted discs, ridged disc,ridged pad, bearing play,
M
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laal tyres, no very grippy, esp wid 2 degs positive camber
pottering aboot speeds / driving, then small bar fine
v stickty tyres, or bigger better tyres will result in moer roll,
What happens is yer tyres then bite,
this then causes grip induced roll, pain in the butt wid 60 TW tyres
but will also give too much roll on ordinary road tyres if gon t, 205s an 2 deg neg camber
Alott is dependant on yer tyres, can be alott of roll like 30 sih degs roll on a hard 70-90 deg corner
Im running 1200LB springs up front wid a 7/8th bar to compesate,
and a an adjustable front TR6 bar ont rear, t even it up a wee bit
tried the wee bar on fronts ,but roll was still alott.
horses for courses summary
pottering / normal drive, oe wee roll bar quite adequate
honk,n on, bigger tyres, stickee tyres , neg camber, then a biggggg no no
M
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look at Falcon types
the yans wid the thick ex pipe bit
this is an extra silencer inside the end tail pipe
cuts out left owa noises that other boxes cant shift
quite a few after market types ev a single thick tail pipe
wid a turned in end lip, all this does is sap power an mek moer noises too
OR, ye could get a special oe type back box made, wid twin exits , or 2 a side so a 4 exit set up
for no much moer money
MX5 / MGF TYPES
John says his just passes the noise tests
mine does 4k revs at 82 dbs so quite quiet
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on top oft selector bit under the remote,
there a wee wol that lets it breath
oil mist does come out of there,after a while,it looks like a leak
esp if yer actually using yer car alot, as oil gets hotter
moer vapours come of = moer oil mist = moer oil on side oft box
so no a leak as such !!
Me self, I bung a rag in there to catch the oil mist
and if yer gonna fill GB / diff noo an then, get yan of thee,s
https://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_nkw=oil+filling+gun&_sacat=0&_sop=15
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I cant for the life of me see why yer wanting a foot rest.
Im no long legged, but me legs still bent
and ona long run, i fin it much moer comfortable t,shuv me foot beint the clucth pedal,
as it lets me stretch me olde leg
M
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the MX5s empty too efter a week or so
but cos they so small, it dont tek lang for them t,fill up
but they { mine } does rattle for about 4 secs
M
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Ello Kevin, BMHIT,
cost me all of 13£ all them years ago
what kem back was just aboot every thing I could want
on a sort of classy bit of a folder / poster thingy, it wer blue ish aroond edges, { cant think what they called at moment, }
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key numbers
engine number
gb number
axle number,
thee,s got me a reg for the 1st spitty i had, which had no records,or number plate
all lost. as it wer all in bits, in diff places over 3 towns
but they managed t trace its reg, where it wer sold at originally, an gev me me reg back.
all I could tell,m was it wer a H plate an a damson colour
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John,Ian, the oil flow ina GB is even moer so than a diff,
as in top, its spinning as engine spins, so 6K plus !!, diffs are reduced by the numbers onit
so that oil is really like ..Hoo flung dung,
it going out the casing at 1000 rpms on me drill, 2000 an it,ll be on me roof panels.
and its aerated like a blomange after a wee while, { comma oils is wust ive ever saw }
And, it can tek alot of hours forit t,go back t,normal looking oil, ive tried it.
there 2 others in the series, the last and final one He aint bunged up yet, as its gonna be showcased when there a final run of em he says.
Our type aint so bad, but the TRs are looking at em,
M
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This is a very intresting topic, {well t,me, an meb,ee a few others }
Ive noticed when working on GB / Diffs, that diff oils foam an aerate diff to each other
The rear oft diff in our cars is quite good, but there ..hollows.. at top where spring bolts are
Some of the TRs are like the flatter square end typ that he,s showing on here.
this must cause oil flow probs, and heat build up he says
also, it alters flow t,frunt bearing.
full series is on you tube, but for some weird reason can just get a single clip on here, not the you tube page, grrrr.
M
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Errr this ..lead memory.. I dont buy it, never seen any scientific proof bar what punted on forums.
I no JK kem oot with this yonks ago, but how did He know then,
nee rests done or owt, not even a lead replacement test.
proof if any one can give it
As for the valves dont wear, as can be seen by the mines ok brigade,
yes thats true, if yer pintlin aboot all the time,
give it some stik an see what happens, well documented on forums
the tests done on VSR by the Federation of wot ever said that under 6K revs, wear was not a problem,
after this 4K, wear was a problem, esp if it wer WOT an high rpms.use { foot,t,floor }
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+1 t,above
plus yer oil maybe past it !!
I noticed on my olde engine, when new oil was put in, it did,nt smake as much
and did,nt pink at certain revs
after about 1000 miles,ish, it started t,pink an smoke
wot yer running as oil, and hoo olde is it
M
Bond 2ltr gearbox d type overdrive
in Parts Wanted
Posted
Ive got 2 of the Holy grail of D types
33% type, thats wot ye really need !!
But yer better of get,n a J type, much moer common, stronger, easier t,wuk on
electrics are simpler too