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Posts posted by sulzerman
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Thanks for the help.👍
Battery is definitely good.
No splutter engine suddenly stopped dead, it kept rotating with momentum.
Ignition light was on by the time it stopped not sure if it was on when it cut out.
Will check coil leads tomorrow
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Hi all and happy new year!!
Driving along in my 2500 tc saloon yesterday suddenly with no warning, ignition light comes on and engine stops, then starts for a split second then stops again and I coast to a stop. Would not restart, I had a quick look under the bonnet and no obvious faults. Car then restarts and drives normally! Car was only driven for about 1 mile so was still cold.
New parts fitted in last six months are HT leads,dist cap, condensor and points (both Lucas NOS) coil and spark plugs.
Also fitted with good quality red rotar arm
I tried wobbling all wires and connections under the bonnet this morning, and all seemed fine.
Anyone got an idea?
many thanks
Paul
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Hi all
Can anyone recommend an excellent paint shop. I want to get spitfire repainted to concourse standards.
Preferably some where in Devon/ Southwest
many thanks
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I had one for over 20 years, excellent practical classic. Used it for work as self employed plasterer for 15 years.
Great car!!!
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I got a rotar arm at NEC classic car show couple years ago. Tried to fit, it was so tight on the spindle the plastic split.
Complete waste of money 💰☹️
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Checked the choke and operation of jets, all normal.
So I fitted a replacement plastic pipe in original jet I used locktite to seal the pipe in the jet.
No leaks and now running normally, so Venturi of new jet must be different/wrong.
Thanks for your suggestions!
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Thanks Pete, I will check tomorrow
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Hi all
Car has been very running well, but discovered leak on front carb jet, so have replaced.
Leak cured but now running very rough at low speed and tickover.
I thought it would be a straight swap, as I have not changed any adjustments.
Anyone any ideas?
It is definitely the correct jet!
many thanks
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I've got a canley's clutch in my spitfire, no problems at all.
Rimmer's stuff in overpriced in my opinion
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Minor issue as I know where the gears are😂
I will rectify!!!
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Chris Witor sells Superflex polyurethane engine mounts £27.50 each.
Will probably never need changing again!
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The overflow/vent pipes were originally a long plastic pipe connected with a rubber hose to the float chamber top. The idea was to vent the petrol fumes to road level.
I think as Pete says the top of the float is slightly worn, this is causing the problem. Mine were worn but the only way I could see it was to take a photo and enlarge it on the computer!! There was a noticeable ridge.
All the best
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I had a solid prop on my 1360 estate for years, never had a problem.
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Jeremy
There is an alloy sealing block under the timing chain cover. The bottom timing chain screws/bolts and two sump bolts go into it. As it's alloy and 40 years old the threads can strip. If bolts or screws won't tighten the threads are stripped and will leak oil. Steel replacements are available from the club shop. Not too bad of a job to replace, I have had to do both my spitfire and 2500 recently. Cured the leak in that area.
If the sump bolts at the front won't tighten that's the problem
hope this helps
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On 23/04/2021 at 14:47, sulzerman said:
Going on holiday in our 2500 saloon. 108 miles from home to Forest of Dean, plus travelling in the week. Should cover around 400 to 500 miles in the week.
Did 560 miles, went round the clock too on M48 in Wales
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Hi Pete, yes the head has been skimmed, probably twice. The garage where I brought the petrol seem quite busy so probably not stale fuel
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I have used a synchrometer with great success, great product!!
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I occasionally had this problem, I fiitted SU stay up floats with metal adjustable arms. Never had a problem since. Fitted to both of my car's.
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Sorry posted this twice!!
Don't know CR but head has been skimmed, also Chris Witor up rated cam fitted
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43 minutes ago, Nigel Clark said:
Hi Paul, long time no see, I hope you're okay!
I'm surprised your 2500 misfired on standard unleaded. Of course, our cars all prefer super unleaded at 97 octane or better still 99 octane like Tesco Momentum or Shell V-Power. The only expected problem with using standard unleaded at 95 octane would be pinking under load, which can be cured by retarding the ignition timing a couple of degrees (at the cost of reduced performance). Not sure why it would have misfired on the ordinary Texaco but sounds like you have cured the problem with fresh super unleaded.
When touring Ireland in my TR6 I couldn't get super unleaded, so retarded the the ignition to stop it pinking on the ordinary fuel and it ran well enough, just a little down on power.
Nigel
Nice to hear from you Nigel! I thought it can't be the petrol, I changed the condensor and rotar arm but made no difference. Then filled up with super and all was good!!
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Hi all
I half filled my 2500 saloon with standard Texaco unleaded, as that was all that was available. Car misfired terrible, really thought something was wrong. I do normally use super unleaded
I then filled up when I had the chance with BP ultimate 97, misfire disappeared almost immediately!! Car ran far better.
A bit stressful, as on a week's holiday away from home!!
Anyone else had this?
Motto of this story, avoid Texaco unleaded!!!
Car stopped dead
in Engine
Posted
Thanks, will test this at the weekend