Adrian
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Posts posted by Adrian
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Well if it is a potential safety issue I’ll swap the calipers ( ironically easier than the cables in the first instant) but I know it’s just to test and not the right way round. I suppose i’ll Have to get a replacement if it’s defective
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I've put two washers on the offending connection and it now bleeds fine. I've ordered some more copper washers of a better size and will attempt to bleed the system fully next week when they arrive - I wonder what other issues I'll be faced with once complete - probably no pressure at the pedal for a start! Watch this space!
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can you stack washers to achieve the clearance? I would assume I should stay well away from grinding down the end of the hose as they are supposed to be precision built.
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Yes it’s split front to back. Following your doubt about the banjo, I took the front calliper off and disconected. I got flow so the problem is actually the calliper, brand new. Should I be using a copper washer at the flexi hose connection? Does the connection depress something inside to allow flow?
just thought to loosen off the hose from the calliper and I got flow. This implies I need a thicker copper washer?
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Hi Tony, all 3 corners are good. I have fluid to the banjo but nothing feeding the to the offside. Near side feed through it is fine
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Morning all. Attempted to bleed the brakes yesterday on the mini, did it in the order the Haynes said. First 3 fine but the final front offside has no flow.
I think I’ve traced it down to the banjo union, if I slacken off the banjo bolt I get seepage of fluid.
new pipes, reused old joint. Any ideas?
thanks Adrian
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For right or wrong I left the footrest off when I recarpetted.
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Well done Kevin. This is the first thread I’ve seen that has plunged to a base level, thankfully not the norm. Having a difference of opinion doesn’t make either side right or wrong but as most people tried to do was to get further information/explanation as to why.
Lets all take a deep breath and remember what a great club it is and how friendly and respectful we all are/should be.
now to think of how to change the subject......
Adrian
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I can’t and won’t comment on people’s views regarding the economic’s of one form of publication over another. All I will say is I’d prefer online for two reasons.
1. Online content is searchable much like the historic cds
2. Saves paper and postage for environmental reasons.
I have a professional magazine which I rarely take out of the wrapper as the articles are academic rather than practical. But that’s just my view. As far as I’m concerned the courier should be optional hard copy as the forum is by far the best platform the club offers!
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Thanks for all or the replies. I bought another one from screwfix last night and VERY carefully filled it following all of the guidance instructions. Instantly noticed pressure at the handle so there must have been a fault with the original - all greased up now! I'll take the other one back for a refund! BUT I will look out for a Wanner for ep90.
Thanks
Adrian
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Pete, yes cap off bottom and pulled the seal off top. If I remove the nozzle the grease seeps under spring pressure. Just need the pump pressure to feed the grease nipple. I might try an clean out the pump mechanism. Amazing, practically rebuilt the mini but failed dramatically on a simple tool!
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So you think it’s the product and not me!
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Was thinking of getting one for the trunnions. Just so frustrating not knowing if it me or the product.
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Hi all. I have a Hilka pro grease gun. Never used before and I’ve never used one before. Basically before I file it under B1N as rubbish I wanted to check with you chaps that I’m not doing anything wrong.
loading, as per instructions and a product specific YouTube demo. Pull spring handle back, insert grease cartridge, screw top back on (not all the way). Release spring making sure plunger is engaged in cartridge, couple of pumps to purge air lock then tighten. Job done, or not. I have absolutely no pressure when pumping. Is it me or the gun. I thought a £20 mid range one should do maybe the club one would be better but £40 is expensive if it’s me. Or if you have any suggestions for alternatives.
any help much appreciated
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May be a daft question but are the wheel arches and bonnet aligned / constructed correctly? If it has the rubber strips on the wheel arches they can easily foul on the bulkhead.
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Hi all
Interesting one, firstly whilst reassembling the mini flywheel / Clutch I was following the Haynes guide. Every time I offered up the flywheel the engine seized with no rotation, after much head scratching and taking apart and re installing I thought I'd check at what point the rotation stopped. Turned out the new slave cylinder bolts were a fraction longer and fouled on the flywheel teeth! Out with the grinder and the bolts rectified and can now progress.
So fitting the spring plate and making sure the balance marks are aligned....the spring plate has 2 'A's marking balance points.
Does this mean either point would balance out or did the engineer in the factory have a fit whilst balancing this?
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Sorry if my observations sparked a negative view, I have nothing but admiration for the club and the efforts members go to to make our membership an enjoyable experience. It was simply an observation made from my I pad which I tend to view more often than a desk top. Whilst I can view the old forum ok the new classifieds are jumbled. No idea about the agm thread as I don’t tend to read every thread, only those of interest or I could contribute.
does it work ok on others iPads?
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Just checking but the new website, particularly classifieds is pretty jumbled (on the iPad) with areas overlapping and margins cut off. Any ideas? Could it be because I haven’t updated the iPad.
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Agree with Richard, have used it on the underside of both the GT6 and the mini. Pity it needs topcoating as is a really good smooth finish. Word to the wise, prep it fully according to instructions. Also I’d advise using the tie coat primer to fully bond the topcoat.
i actually used tetrosyl stonechip as well on the underside and wheel arches as belt and bracers and finally finished off with dinytrol clear wax.
Adrian
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A bit late I’m afraid but I tournaquade mine into place very successfully using the proper rubber. I did post it a couple of years ago on here.
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Agree with Pete, that’s what I did. Too much float resulted in a wobbly wheel, not enough a slight scraping on rotation. Trial and error, provided you don’t drive it around I think you can add and take away to your hearts content without any damage.
Adrian
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I’m after exactly the same, I have a mate who is a great engineer, just needed the details. Adrian please let me know how the 3D printing goes and if good would appreciate a set.
cheers
Adrian
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It's definitely an interesting question. Its nice to know that any money you have invested in your classic would result in an uplift in value and that it doesn't turn into a money pit. BUT that's the chance you take isn't it. When you buy a car that has been restored you pay a premium so value is solely dependent on market forces in the future or if you buy a basket case and work on it yourself you pay a premium on parts as a non-business but save on labour but you end up being invested in the car having literally spilt blood over its restoration. I bought my gt6 3 years ago for £6600, I haven't dared add up the parts yet but I'd say it brings the total to well in excess of £10K but its academic as the journey and learning process has been invaluable to me.
I've probably spent more than I would get back on the Mini (at the moment) but again not intending to sell but enjoy.
As Clive said our car values will be more susceptible to market forces but I suspect will slowly creep up in value overall. Whilst we like our cars I don't think they will ever be in the same league as the jags, Astons, Jensons or the more moderns that have exploded in value such as the Audi Quattro and Cosworths.
It's ironic really as the GT6 is the poor mans E-type yet the GT6 is much, much rarer than the E-type.
Adrian
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Trust you Doug, I’m a geologist so I think in silicon rather than silicone! I’ll have a read of the link. I have got a primer and it takes an age, again over a minute of rapid pumping. I feel it’s not sucking enough but not based on any comparison. I take the point on evaporative loss but how long does it normally take to refill them?
failing that it’s a length of tube for sucking and blowing.
Bleeding the mini brakes
in My NON-Triumph cars
Posted
I actually think the depth of the thread in the caliper is a fraction too short (or the hose thread is too long) and when tightened up actually seals itself against the bottom face of the caliper thread.
i’ll have a look this morning. I’ve ordered some 1.5mm washers as the current ones are no more than 1mm. They may just be enough to get the clearance without using 2.
Adrian