Qu1ckn1ck
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Posts posted by Qu1ckn1ck
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Hi and welcome to the forum. They are SU carbs, very common on British cars. Unscrew the black caps on top and lift them out with the small pistons attached and add a small amount of engine oil down the exposed tubes and then replace the pistons and caps. The pistons and oil acts as damper when accelerating to avoid the mixture becoming too weak.
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A familiar TSSC member and his car seen at Weston yesterday:
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Seen at Weston Classic Picnic yesterday:
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14 hours ago, Badwolf said:
Using Tesco Momentum at the minute. She seems to like it.. when she bothers to start (see Nose to Tail thread)
Tesco Momentum for me too, largely as Tesco is my corner shop.
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Hi and welcome.
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1 hour ago, rlubikey said:
Are you sure the ARB doesn't simply need centring? I don't think there's anything to stop it moving side to side a little bit other than the U bolt clamping force through the bushes.
Cheers, Richard
You are probably right Richard. It certainly appears to change position each time I take a look at it. I guess I won't know whether it is reasonably straight until I take it off.
Nick
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Any tips on how to make fitting Polybushes to the ARB an easy job ?
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Any tips on how to make fitting Polybushes to the ARB an easy job ?
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I think that you will find that only the 7/8" ARB is now available new from the usual suspects.
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7 hours ago, Spitfire6 said:
Hi,
would an extra rear wishbone bracket shim increase the tyre clearance and still keep camber and castor in spec after readjusting tracking?
Cheers,
Iain
It very possibly will Ian.
I have recently levelled / raised the ride height on the offending side and so far there has been no further contact between tyre and bulkhead.
A comparison last night with another member's car has highlighted differences in my bulkhead configuration and positioning, probably a result of previous repairs/restoration of the tub. Maybe a little local panel beating of the bulkhead will finally put the problem to bed.
Thanks for all the suggestions.
Nick
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My ARB appears to be splayed out on one side. On one side the drop link is near vertical from wishbone to arb, on the other side it is quite angled.
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9 minutes ago, JohnD said:
Why would you change the brackets?
John
I assumed that using larger U-bolts to clamp a 7/8 ARB might require a small mod to the fixed mount on the chassis ?
Nick
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The ARB bushes and links fitted to my Rotoflex GT6 Mk3 need replacing and I was wondering whether to also replace the bar itself. On measuring my ARB I find that it is only 11/16" dia but the only new bars available all appear to be 7/8"dia.
Does anyone have any comment or advice regarding changing the ARB from 11/16" to 7/8" and would I need to change any chassis mounting brackets, please ?
Nick
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21 hours ago, Colin Lindsay said:
I think that if you're replaced the bushes then John was initially correct way back near the top of the page - it's the bushes. It's the only thing I can think of that would allow the wheels to move backwards so much that they hit the bulkhead; either that, or your entire turret is moving about.
Certainly the bushes may well have been an important factor but the fact that the offending nearside was sitting 1/2" lower than the offside probably did not help either.
Thanks everyone for your help and advice
Nick
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4 hours ago, Pete Lewis said:
you have got the rear wishbone pivot on the right way up
front its pivot high rear is pivot low???
Pete
Like this Pete?
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The front suspension has now been totally dismantled and rebuilt with Spax height adjustable shocks, all wishbone bushes replaced with poly bushes and hub bearings and seals replaced. With a slight increase in front end ride height and after an extensive test run we finally appear to have overcome the problem of tyre to bulkhead interference as no witness marks are showing on the white target patch.
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Not sure the unbraced roll bar in my Westfield would have afforded much protection but it inspired confidence in the passenger
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Richard
PM sent
Nick
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Would these be the same parts as on a Rotoflex GT6 Mk3?
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I found Grippy Tyres mobile service very good when I replaced tyres on a GT86 several years ago:
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I can vouch that they are heavy, I still have the lower back pain to prove it ....
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My fitted spring length is a gnat's less than 8" plus a 3/8" spacer so approx 8.25" total and there appear to be 9 working coils.
When I had 4-wheel total alignment done on 22.09.2016 the best they could achieve on castor was 2.33 deg left front and 3.23 deg right front. To increase the castor angle do I remove shims from the front wishbone mount and add them to the rear?
Nick
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Mark,
You have described our problem exactly. We overcame it for 2.5 years by adding 3/8" spring spacers. My guess is that either our springs have settled, potholes have got bigger or I and my passenger have put on weight. Perhaps a combination of all three.
Nick
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Thanks for the suggestion but definitely the wheel that is making contact with the bulkhead.
Hello from Yorkshire
in I thought I'd introduce myself
Posted
Hi and welcome to the forum.
Ken, a TSSC member, has this GT6 Mk2 for sale if he did not sell it yesterday!