Qu1ckn1ck
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Posts posted by Qu1ckn1ck
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Hi and welcome. Sorry, I can't help with any suggestion on a floppy accelerator.
Nick
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11 minutes ago, Pete Lewis said:
ive had a triumph since 2003 and over winter with less use than normal never had any trouble with fuel supposedly 'going off'
doesnt matter where or when pull choke and fire her up it may have lost some sparkle but never non starter .
my view is fuel gets the blame for other offending faults that dont like lack of use
pete
Similar experience to Pete, having laid up many different roadster marques and models over winter and have never had problems with "stale" petrol. However, on several occasions have had to use a slave battery to start a laid up car and on the current GT6 the clutch stuck to the flywheel over the first winter we had her.
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With a new rear spring my rotoflex Mk3 was too high at the back so we fitted longer studs with a lowering block. The studs came from Canley but we had to use a die nut to extend the threads further down the studs as otherwise they would not clamp on the Mk3 spring.
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11 hours ago, Pjb1969 said:
It looks like i mat be ok, i rang dvla and they said although its not active its on the dormant system, all i have to do is apply for v5 with v62 and it will reactivate on their system and theyl issue v5
thanks for the info though
Sounds good. Welcome to Triumph ownership Paul !
Nick
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Hi and welcome Louis !
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Sounds an interesting project! Good luck!
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Have a great time !
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6 hours ago, classiclife said:
You are correct Dave. Unnecessary depression of the clutch other than gear changing and to control the car during a slow manoeuvre accelerates wear on thrust washers.
Many say you should depress the clutch fully when starting a car, to reduce the load. That is an incorrect practice and the car should be started without depressing the clutch pedal.
I know on many modern cars (mine for example) you cannot start the car unless you depress the clutch - I guess modern engineering has changed and the above rule no longer applies regarding wear. Have to say I do not know the rationale behind that, perhaps someone on here does ??
Regards.
Richard.
The interlock to stop your modern car being started unless the clutch is depressed is surely for safety in case some senile old buffer like me has left the car in gear.
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If you put the numbers into an ebay search they both appear to be currently on sale for Vitesse, GT6, 2.5PI ranges. AG 900 is listed as for flat heads but judging by the application dates quoted CG 902 should also be for flat head Triumph Sixes.
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3 hours ago, Gully said:
Worth noting that Richard Bliscoe (who advertises in The Courier) has all the various distance pieces available, so with the combination of those and the 3 thou spacer it should be relatively straightforward to achieve the specified half to 2.5 thou end float (without grease). Pete and I found it's as much feel as measurement when you get close!
Gully
I bought all five of the different thickness distance pieces plus several 0.003" shims prior to the work on my hub but at the end of the day we didn't use any of them. If anyone is desperate for a particular distance piece I can possibly help.
Nick
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1 hour ago, Pete Lewis said:
On nicks we simply used a sand disc in a pillar drill and faced with rotating the hub removed a few thou , its not hardened
Just need to keep it flat and square to the bore ,, not hard to achieve even with an file'
Pete
Just like the REME
(Rough engineering made easy)
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4 hours ago, Pete Lewis said:
do we need to start a rogues gallery ???
pete
A "Black Museum" of Triumph and disaster perhaps ....
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17 hours ago, Gully said:
The hub splines had corrosion in the bottom of them when we removed the grease and they may have been damaged on another shaft at some point - nothing immediately apparent, but we didn't look too hard after the replacement hub fitted on the shaft as it should have done. Not sure if Nick has investigated more since?
Gully
On close inspection the deformed washer working with the locknut had become a perfect "spinning" tool working on the splines at the flange end of the hub. The end of the hub splines had visibly spread to lock the hub and shaft tightly together. See attached pic between 9 and 12 o'clock !
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57 minutes ago, Pete Lewis said:
may be 'grave yard' is nearer the mark ???
all else seems ok doesnt it ?????
Pete
The offside didn't rock when Paul checked it on Saturday but I will have the wheel and drum off to see if that hub has also been fitted with the help of a sledge hammer.
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32 minutes ago, KevinR said:
NEVER underestimate the "ingenuity" of a previous owner !
Actually it was not the previous owner of my car that was to blame in this instance. I bought the full assemblies pictured , advertised as refurbished, from Spitfire Graveyard this year. I doubt if the car has done 200 miles since they were installed. I might have a quiet word with S G but I guess caveat emptor will be the answer.
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14 hours ago, Pete Lewis said:
we can only assume the hub has been seriously deformed by a previous failure the nut platform is really deformed the rather thin washer took on the apperance of the gear remote cup,
the hub was so excessively tight on the shaft there is no way the 'who did the rebuild' could have accessed the end float , the subsequent lack of feel decended into a large endfloat
the spec being 0.0005 to 0.0025"
Pete
... and here is the photographic evidence m'lud:
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Safely home with all four wheels rotating smoothly.
Many thanks to Pete and Gully for their time and expertise.
Thanks Gully for donating your spare hub and thanks also to Gill for supplying very welcome food and drink at appropriate moments.
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We're off to see the Wizard .....
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1 hour ago, Pete Lewis said:
no its the opposite add shims reduces the float as the shims are not sandwiched between the races but are on the outside at the inner end
this is why its a pain, there is no spacer between the races they are free to well ....float
Pete
The more I see of Triumph's engineering design ......
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On 24/09/2019 at 21:11, Adrian said:
It may well be the case that it is over shimmed which allows you to torque up but won’t tighten the taper bearings sufficiently. I didn’t need a puller when I did mine. I shimmed via trial and error until I was happy with the setup, adding 1 thou at a time, I was able to remove hub each time insitu without having to disconnect the brake hose. Uncle Pete will sort you out!
I have difficulty in vizualizing the GT6 Rotoflex hub bearings and spacer arrangement as my previous experience has been with much simpler live rear axles. I came to a similar conclusion to you, that the shimming probably needs to be reduced to put pre-load on the bearings.
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Hi Craig and welcome to the forum.
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On 21/09/2019 at 17:50, Gully said:
I bought a full set of shims from rbmobileclassics on eBay - including replacing the one we used on rebuilding my o/s hub. However, he's not listing any at the moment. The seller, Richard Briscoe, also advertises in the back of The Courier magazine - he's the second listing under Parts 4 Sale on page69 of the August edition, immediately beneath Mike Papworth.
If you have the option of building the replacement shaft / hub separately, including a new banded rotoflex coupling, then that's some benefit for reassembly. However, if you're not replacing the coupling, then you'll probably not gain much.
How much play do you have? Is the bearing rumbling?
Gully
Been on to rbmobile and he can supply spacers but at the moment I am not sure exactly what will be required until the hub is disassembled.
Nick
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A large amount of play but no bearing rumble noticeable above the cars normal rattles and squeaks. The rotoflex were new banded and appeared fine when I bought the complete shaft, upright and brake assemblies recently as refurbished from an unfinished project.
Nick
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11 minutes ago, Pete Lewis said:
we did pauls ok and i have his puller lets chat o monday
paul has a selection of shims we didnt use ... must be worth a pint ???
Pete
Sounds like a plan, what is your poison ?
Rotoflex Rear Hub Bearings
in Drivetrain & Rear Axle
Posted
Just an update to say that the surgery on the rear hub has worked a treat. So many of the odd noises from the back-end (oo-er) seem to have been eliminated in the process.
Many thanks to the surgery team of Pete and Gully.