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Richard Each leaf was cleaned down with a rotary wire brush in my Angle Grinder then given a couple of coats of primer and another 3 or 4 coats of Gloss Black aerosol paint. I coated each leaf were it adjoins the next with a mixture of Graphogen Engine Assembly paste and Dinitrol 3125 fluid mixed in a jam jar and applied with a small paint brush. After reassembly, I think I gave the spring a clean down with a Cloth and a bit of White Spirit then applied another final coat of Gloss aerosol. I'd had problems in the past with a new reproduction spring (Made in India I believe) sagging with 4 people in the car So I managed to get a good condition Original spring and refurbished it, this was fitted in conjunction with Koni telescopic dampers (That's another story getting the correct ones that fit and are the correct length open and closed!) Cheers Gary

I Refurbished my Rotoflex Spring a few years ago and did open up slightly the thick 'U' Clamp using my Vice to allow easier dismantling? The rotoflex spring is different to the earlier springs with regards to the outer clamps, this is different (Shallower profile) so the Rotoflex coupling doesn't catch. Its worth replacing the rubber buttons between the leaves too, 4 per side I think and only 20 pence each from Canleys. I lubricated in between the leafs with a combination of Graphite paste and Dinitrol 3125 Rustproofing fluid. It was well worth the effort the car seeming to ride more smoothly afterwards PS - If you look in my Gallery pictures you will see some photos?

Some nice classics in Chesire today, the Vitesse MK2 Saloon was a gem, same owner for 42 Years! The 5 ran well apart from an embarrasing stall when leaving the show, I still can't find the best way to start it when the engine is still warm

When replacing the spring on my Rotoflex Vitesse I ground a point onto an old spring eye bolt and with judicous levering with an old screwdriver through the Vertical Link bolt hole managed to line things up roughly, then hammered the pointed bolt through. Then Drift the new bolt through from the other side with plenty of copper slip on it. I've heard of people using ratchet straps and also levering with a length of Angle iron bolted to two of the wheel studs to get the Spring Eye and vertical link to line up. Another pair of hands is always helpful when working on the Rotoflex type suspension? You can see why a lot of people convert to CV Joints, far easier to assemble then .

Sounds like the dreaded Ethanol's been doing its stuff! Use R9 SAE30 rated Petrol Hose minimum now? Gary

The Bolt will be rusted solid to the steel sleeve in the bush!! An angle grinder with a thin cutting blade is best (If you can get it in?) Alternatively carefully hacksaw the bolt either side the bush. Gary

You can get the Rubber Bump stops, not sure about the metal bit it bolts to and which is welded to the inner Wheel arch, Chic Doig in Scotland may do something? This is quite a common rust point, trapped water and mud cause it to rot out

I'm no expert on Rotoflex rebuilds either, but what your stating above seems correct to me. When its all fully assembled and greased, with the wheels/tyres back on the car you should be able to rock the wheel by a very tiny amount. If you assemble without the correct shims and there is too much pre-load it will ruin the bearings in a short space of time PS - Not sure if those Leacy Classics shims are correct?

I never had any problems with Overheating during normal driving even with a standard radiator? This particular occasion was whilst touring in Wales going up a very steep hill, on one of the hottest days of the year, the car soon settled down going down the other side I did have an Head Gasket fail though after 6 years of reliable use on the way back from a Classic Car Show at the NEC , the Stag engine is a gorgeous sounding, free revving engine when in good fettle, but needs regular oil changes and coolant flushing to keep it reliable.

Interesting? I found with my Stag fitted with the Standard Engine and Radiator that if you stopped on a hot day and switched the engine off, the Temperature Guage would head off into the Red Gary

This is a copy and paste from the Canley classics website which should help:- Note 4 Replacement wheel bearings should be re-shimmed to give the correct end float/preload. In most cases replacing the equivalent shims and spacers from the old unit will give an acceptable result but if the hub has been replaced or the unit assembled from parts, then the following procedure should be followed. Fit bearing cups into vertical link. Fit outer race and outer shell into vertical link. Fit hub making sure it is fully down. Fit inner race. Put spacer and shims in place - measure across bearing inner race with straight edge and feeler gauge such that the hub and shims are 0.001 - 0.002 higher than an inner bearing race. Fit outer axle shaft fully home and tighten nut to 90ft/lb. You should feel VERY slight play - if you can feel end float, reduce shims - if preload, increase shims. When correct, take apart, grease and fit inner seal. One final word of warning, don't assume that every garage (even classic car specialists) is capable of rebuilding roto wheel bearings. We have seen some shocking bodges over the years carried out on customers stuff brought into us after recent work by 'professionals'. You need to assertain that who ever you trust your rotoflex with has a proven track record with the stuff, is regularly practised in the art, and has a ready stock of shims/spacers, etc before he attacks it. You have been warned! I believe shims are available but can't remember where from The spacer on your photo is in the correct position and the shims fit over the top of this as far as I can recall You say the half shaft nut came off easily, make sure the threads on the shaft are in good condition (Can't tell for sure but they look a bit iffy on the photo?) the nut needs to be torqued up to 90 lbs/ft! Gary

Like the Name of the Afternoon show Dick Will have to see how I get on selling my Spares, got a 3 hour drive home after so it will be a long day

I'm hoping to attend the SEM meet next Sunday, selling off some of my remaining Herald/Vitesse spares all being well, its quite a trip for me from Derbyshire so it will be an early start, 6ish probably , is anyone else attending? If so look out for me and say hello, it would be nice to put faces to names and you never know I might be selling something you need?!! I'll be in my Silver Golf due to the amount of stuff I've got

Its been a while since I went to this show, but I didn't pre book back then (10 years ago maybe?) From what I remember there was a good turn out of Classics and a bit of an Autojumble too. Gary

I changed the Gaitors on my TR last year for the M.O.T. (Similar Steering Rack) and Struggled to fit the Passenger side Gaitor? I ended up warming it in Hot Water to make it a bit more pliable, it worked

I believe they have them made by a reputable British company so it should be to original spec? I had a bad experience with a foreign manufacured spring a few years ago, but it was the opposite problem to yours, sagging and too much negative camber A picture will help?

Ok, can I ask where you got the spring from? I refurbished an Original Spring, stripping it down and de-rusting/re-painting, fitting new Thrust buttons between the leaves and new Polybush Spring eye bushes, it took a few hours and only cost £25 or so. I was happy with the results, a Mk2 Vitesse should have around 1 to 2 degrees positive camber at the rear, I take it you've got more positive camber than this?

You need to drive the car to let it settle ideally, or at least roll the car backwards and forwards to let it settle. Have you got the complete Body and all fittings built up on the Chassis yet?

Agree with Tom, they are from a 2 Door Toledo, hence the catch on the side to tilt forward. I had one fitted to the Drivers side of my Vitesse when I bought it.

A Pair of nice TR5's, I went to view one of them UPD a couple of years ago when it was for sale?

I fitted 175/70 Uniroyal Rain Expert Tyres on my Old Vitesse a few years ago and was happy with them? I had them recommended to me by a couple of people on the Club Triumph Forum.

Do you know anyone with a Compressed Air Impact Wrench, this will get it undone? If not can you wedge something stout in between the the Flywheel teeth and Block/Backplate.

I believe the later motors are different, here's another Diagram from the internet?

An Original Rebuild kit on E-Bay although it is more than a new repro pump! http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/NOS-AC-BEDFORD-TK-TJ-CF-SUNBEAM-Alpine-FORD-TRIUMPH-TR5-TR6-GT6-FUEL-PUMP-KIT-/252484133534?hash=item3ac93a229e:g:Ts0AAMXQATlRZb2Q I managed to pick up a N.O.S. Pump for my Vitesse many moons ago at an Autojumble, they still turn up occasionally? Just be aware that some of the Repro pumps provide too high a pressure and you may find leaks at the carbs