Dave pb

Hi JOhn I'm working on this idea, but I have 10 cables going to the speedo. 2 for oil lamp, 2 for ign lamp, 2 for beam lamp, 3 to volt stabilizer, one to illumination lamp, (actually 11, an earth cable to one of the fixing bolts). Did you rationalise these in anyway to get an 8-way connector? Dave ====

Speedo is out!, Mid-section unscrewed made it possible, otherwise I don't see how. However Chrome bezel won't come off. Is it just stuck on via the rubber seal ? Bit of brute force required? Dave ==

like the idea. Might give it a go. If I can get it out in the first place.

The tap on the face method isn't working. Now to figure out how to get the speedo out. Dave

Well, getting the speedo out is impossible. I can't get my hand up there, never mind finding the right bits to twiddle. I might try the tap-on-the-face method. Dave

Ok. I thought so, but hoped not. Not much room under there. I might replace the voltage stabiliser with an electronic one while I am at it. Thanks Pete Dave

Just to be certain.... I have to get the whole speed out first, right?

Thanks Pete. I'll give it a go Dave ====

HI Just been out for a drive and noticed both mileometer and tripometer stuck after a mile or so. Speedo still working normally. Stopped the car, engine still running. Started off again both meters working, a mile later both stick in the same place i.e the same place on the tripometer right hand digit 1/10th mile. Repeat the process, 2 or 3 times, same thing everytime. Any ideas? Dave ===

I have the original carpet bits (till I throw them away).. There are poppers in the footwell. Passenger and driver- two poppers on the floor each side and one each side on the bulkhead. - right hand side for driver, left hand side for passenger. I have the additional footplate on the passenger side - the number of poppers might be different if it is not there. There were no poppers on the cross member. Chalk stolen from grand-daughter's kit. Dave ====

Bit late on the reply, but I just fitted some newton moulded carpets. I put chalk on the floor studs, put the carpet in place then pressed down on the studs. The chalk mark transfers to the back of the carpet. Then make a hole thru the carpet as a central position, then put the popper on the carpet. Simples. Dave ====

I could do with some A/C in mine. Just had a 5 mile test run. Beautiful. Usual clunks and bangs from the back end Tailgate? Exhaust? Boards in the back bouncing about a bit. But otherwise runs lovely. Few little jobs to do, change the oil, flush the cooling system, but that's all. Thanks again Dave ====

I read on buckeye that the fuel will dissolve any gasket sealant so I didn't bother. reassembled. Runs! No leaks! Job's a goodun! Thanks for the advice. The 6th bolt was a classic. Now for a look a the temp controllers. Should they be open or shut now? Its a warm day, engine is warm but definitely not hot.

Turns out I have a carb refurb kit in the garage, so I have put a new needle valve in. Now, gasket sealant or not?

Aha! a very good point. Sixth one off, reservoir off! I hate that WSM. Shows 5 screws (but 6 holes!) Floats dangling free. Needle valve seems to be free, but I'll take it out and clean it.

ok . the 5 screws are out. Petrol leaking from the gasket and I now have very clean petrol-soaked hands. However the reservoir wont come off. Does the plug at the bottom have to come out too? I thought I might be able to pull the reservoir over it. As far as I can see the plug is screwed in to the body and only a rubber o ring is sealing it to the reservoir? Dave ====

Hi Doug I like the idea of taking the reservoir off in situ. Sounds right up my "try everything that's easy first" street. (only then to find it didn't work and turns into a major job anyway). Thanks Dave

Hello An old chestnut I'm afraid. Rear carb leaking fuel from the right hand side, top hole in the carb face and then out via the air filter cover. (150cdse) I believe this is either a stuck valve or a stuck/leaking float. Any alternative but to take both carbs and linkages off and do a refurb? The WSM is not very helpful either, it says disconnect carbs from engine but doesn't mention anything about accelerator / choke cables/ fuel lines disconnection. Is it that obvious people should know all that anyway? I guess so... Any advice appreciated. Thanks Dave

Hi Andy, thanks for that. I used to live in Lightwater, but now in the sunny Isle of Man (not sunny today). Anyway I have read that if you connect an FM transmitter (about £10)to the line-out of a stereo, you can then use wireless speakers. I haven't tried it myself, but apparently works. You do need a volume control on the Bluetooth speakers apparently, as the stereo volume control doesn't affect the line-out. Cheers Dave

Well, yep, but then I lose the radio I guess.

Haven't got around to replacing radio yet. But I had a thought....(rare enough),,,,, Is there such a thing as a car radio/stereo/cd/mp3 player that only uses Bluetooth speakers? Get rid of any old speakers in the car, and just have ones that work wirelessly? Dave

I put a magnetic hex head and washer on the drain, and a plug with the Allen key fitting on the filler. I reckon the Allen key will be easier to use thru the hole in the tunnel. Dave .

To infinity and beyond! I've had to resort to hammering things onto the square, and then hammering the whole thing round in the past to get them off. Anyway, nice new bits coming. On another matter. Very difficult getting a torque wrench onto the prop shaft nuts. Dave ===

I managed to get some gl4 ep80/90 today, so that is what is going in! And some hex-headed filler/drain plugs. Those original square things are the stupidest idea I've ever seen. Was there a reason they were done like that? It might be going by Christmas. Dave ===

ok. just about all back together. Need to fill the gearbox with oil....... So to re-open many a debate. GL4, GL5, does it make any real difference? Also I guess its a hypoid 90. Cheers Dave