Dave pb

Hi Pete I managed to loosen up the reverse actuator by pressing the clutch and moving the prop shaft connection around whilst trying to move the actuator. It seems the reverse idler had been trapped by something. Now the actuator moves a bit backwards and forwards but only a centimetre or so. Should it be more? Regarding the effort to select reverse it can be a bit of a shove and what sounds like a final clunk or clang as it goes in. 1st gear not so much clanging but still a bit of a shove. I guess that it could have been the worn out clutch. Dave ====

Now, this might be relevant. As I was lying awake last night thinking about it, it has always been stiff getting the gear stick into reverse, and sometimes into 1st. Perhaps there is something amiss in the gearbox. Are there any checks I can do? Right now the gear box is mounted in the car. I don't really want to take the whole thing out again as it was such a pain getting it back in. Cheers Dave ===

Thanks All. I didn't take the gears out, just put it in 1st then took off the gear lever extension, then the top cover. As far as I can see my gearbox looks exactly like the Vitesse one above. BUT the centre of the pin on the reverse actuator is only 2" from the inside of the back of the box, and it will not move forward

Hi Pete. I ensured the fork was in 1st by putting the remote in and selecting 1st. It already was as it turned out. The problem seems to be that with the rear fork in the right place (and I'm assuming the front fork goes in the 1st/2nd synchro sleeve), then the reverse actuator arm is obstructing the rear fork. See pictures below. Can that reverse arm move much, it seems fully forward as far as I can tell, but needs to go forward out of the way a bit. Or, is that second gear ring from the right (I assume it is the 3/4 synchro ring) too far forward? But even if it is, the reverse arm will still foul the fork.

Hi Pete I put it in first before dismantling as per the WSM. I don't think its moved, but then I don't know what it should look like! How can I ensure the top cover is in 1st? Dave ====

Hello If I order from the Club shop for delivery in the Isle of Man, will it send by Royal Mail?. So much cheaper than a courier, and the Royal Mail delivers to the IOM just the same as anywhere else in the UK. Cheers Dave

A bit more wrangling about and it eventually slipped in. Done all the bolts up today. BUT,,,,can't get the gearbox cover on - i.e. the bit that you then bolt the gearlever extension piece on, The reverse selector lever seems to be in the way of putting the cover on. I guess some things may have moved with all my levering about, but I don't notice anything at the time. Any ideas? Dave ====

Hi Pete A bit of rope, a good length of wood, and a quick clout or two seem to have got me further into the disc, and just onto the studs at the top. A bit of parallel alignment as you pointed out a few message ago, and a couple of shoves by me and the stepson should see it done. Looking very much more promising now. Thanks Dave ==

hi I spent another hour yesterday with the hefty stepson. We got the input shaft in, but only up to the splines. After that couldn't move it forward anymore. The rear end is hitting the prop shaft face, and we cannot drop it down further or push it forward. i'm guessing the splines on the shaft on and those on the clutch plate are maybe not lined up - can I just rotate the gears so that the spines move a bit. Even if they are lined up though, it seems impossible to get the box in the right plane in 3 dimensions at the same time. Big length of timber next on the list. Dave ==

Like the long studs idea. The back of the engine is jacked up a bit, but actually seemed to raise the whole car too! I'll try the stud idea. Thanks Dave ==

The new clutch is in. I had an old alignment tool to centre the driving plate with the cover. Seems to be successful. I had to replace some air ducting that looked like it had been chewed by a mouse. Next step - put the gearbox/bell housing back in. A real struggle getting it far enough forward. The gear box extension bit is still sitting on the transmission tunnel and needs to move forward about 4 inches, but trying to get it at the right angle while the rear end is up in the air is very difficult. Tried various things for an hour this morning but no joy. Any tips ?

Paul H - thanks for the tip. www.silentcoat.co.uk 2mm. I bought this stuff this week. Great service - ordered Monday, arrived Wednesday, free post and packing! This is excellent as usually companies want to charge European shipping rates to get stuff to the Isle of Man, even though you can pop it in the Royal Mail just as if delivering in England. The stuff looks good, and heavy. On a similar note Screwfix also deliver here next day for no postal charge. Anyway, I digress. All stuff ready to go back on the car now, just want to make sure I do everything sensible before I put it all back together. One tip I got from the TR site, was to make access holes in the gearbox tunnel for the Starter Motor bolts, so you can take it out without dismantling everything. Any more good ideas? Dave

Hi Terry, if you look at the member details on the left, you can see their location, generally. I guess you need to put it in your personal account details if you want people to see it. Regarding photos , I think its the bottom of the reply box to attach files. As you can see I am in the Isle of Man. Bit of a way from Essex! Maybe a bridge too far (except there isn't a bridge).

Thinking of selling my 13/60 convertible. 1970. Saffron body, black interior. Very good condition. Had it 15 years, stripped down and rebuilt it, and time for me to move on. Been a member here all that time. Lost most (all?) of my posts here on the 13/60 following the great website crash of a few years ago. Been working on my TR4 mainly for the last 3 years, and now doing some work on my GT6. Herald feeling a bit neglected! Dave ====

I have a GT6 mk3 swing spring. I had the same clattering noise as you. I tried everything you did. I swapped the tailgate sealing rubber out, as that was part of the cause. I found one of the radius arm bushes (the chassis end), was shot and could move along its bolt side to side. I swapped all the radius bushes for new poly ones. This made a big difference, BUT there is still a bit of clattering , and it may be the tailgate lock. It does sound like boards in the luggage area, but it wasn't that or the spare, or tools. The radius bushes looked fine but a bit of hefty prying about moved one from side to side. Dave ====

Yep, I just want a radio, a usb charging / playing port and a cd slot. Bluetooth- don't care, hands free phone- don't care. Retro styling would be nice but don't really care about it. I only want the cd slot as I have a lot of old ones and can't be bothered porting them to a usb-stick. Lazy or what. Dave ====

I think I found it on supplier website. Described as a dowel - clutch cover to flywheel . Not the rivet holding the clutch bits together, I'm pleased to say. Being a dowel I'm assuming they do come out. On the subject though, I looked at the replacement bits I bought 2 years ago (2 years!), and discovered that I had also bought the whole clutch cover as well as the driving plate. The original clutch cover looks fine to me. Is it worth replacing the cover with a new one? I guess they don't get much wear and tear? Dave ====

Thanks all. Looking at spending about £100 rather 2 or 3. I'll have a dig around. Dave ====

hi Gearbox and bell housing out after a struggle getting around the airvent pipes. Clutch out this morning after a further struggle. The driven plate itself was smooth. I checked the replacement and that had ridged sections so I guess the old one is worn out. Removing the clutch housing - and one of three rivet type things came out with it. Didn't look sheared-off or anything. Are these meant to come out? Looked like a guide/locating piece, round, about 15mm long, steel. Dave ==

Hi got the old radio out as part of a clutch change. It had a cassette and needs updating to something with a cd/mp3/usb charger. Not willing to spend a huge amount. Any recommendations? cheers dave ====

Thanks. Looks good. As I've got mine out I think I'll give a go. (The gearbox cover). Dave

Hi Kevin. Did your heating problems get fixed (Vesuvius or this one?). I had similar problems and the same symptoms a couple of years ago, and tried everything simple first - hoses, rad, water pump, thermostat, cleaning it all out etc. Replaced everything. It still turned out to be a cracked head gasket, which was the last thing I wanted. Confirmed by a gas-test on the radiator which showed combustion gases. In the end replacing the gasket was much easier than I had anticipated. I used some blue sealant on the new gasket. Been alright since, although of course there are still all sorts of other problems to fix. But on the plus side I now have a very efficient cooling system! Dave ====

Thanks Paul H. Is that heatshield/soundproof stuff on the inside of the cover? Did it work? Dave ====

Thanks everyone. I guess its the reversing switch. I'll test later. It looks more like the one on the right in the photo above. I also found that a mouse had made a home in there between the cover and the gearbox. A while ago by the looks of it. It has made a nice hole in the cover and the carpet. On that subject, is it normal to make a hole for the gearbox filler plug (mine hasn't got one), so that you can top up without taking everything out? On another note, the a-frame (dashboard support) came out really easily, compared to the TR4 which needed, shall we say, persuading, out and back in. Dave ====

Hi Its time to change the clutch - I've got as far as removing the gearbox cover. A quick inspection showed a very new-looking gearbox, but at the rear-end under the selector cover and screwed into the top of the gearbox was a big plug about 1.5 inches dia, and about 1 inch high with two wires attached, which then disappear into the loom in the engine bay. Not shown in WSM. Looks like a sensor of some kind maybe. Any ideas? Regards Dave ====