Josef

Huh. I was wondering if I’d imagined the CNC version, or if it was out of production… I’ve two distorted and stripped ally ones and need a replacement. So at a tenner over the original style one I know what I’ll be getting!

Using a soldering iron to melt holes through the carpet makes the seats much easier to fit, and avoids bits of carpet getting in to the nuts/bolts!

I’d want to see the panel in the flesh next to the (remains of) an original bit before making any judgement. Probably as would anyone else who’d do the job. That whole area was a big job to repair and the shapes are not as simple as in that panel in the photo. The one in-house made panel from said supplier I bought I never used as it really wasn’t a good shape, I preferred to make my own.

Ahh yeah. The Escorts had something rather similar but I think you’re right.

The rear looks like a normal Equipe to me (but I don’t think I’ve ever seen one in real life so I’m no expert!) The wheels look like Escort, Mk3 ish?

That was one of the previous owners of my Spitfire :S

Well, you can. One of our local members managed to do so and it ran, till the arm snapped off…

Best is obviously subjective, but I think your easiest option will be to match a known 1147 engine spec, Herald or early Spitfire. That way you’re working with some variation of a standard setup and can buy carb needles etc to suit that known application. Going off that track means you’re more likely to have to do your own research and experimentation. Though perhaps taking inspiration from the Standard Triumph tuning options or SAH or other period performance retailers could be an idea if you want something extra.

http://www.team.net/www/triumph/trprefix.html https://www.teglerizer.com/triumphstuff/spit_and_gt6_specs.htm None of those are a ‘normal’ Triumph engine number (see the info in the links above). But I would not worry. Most likely the DVLA will not care in the slightest what Triumph did or did not use as engine numbers. They ignored my attempt at correcting the 0 to an O on my Spitfire’s commission number… The paperwork only needs to show a unique ID, which yours is for sure.

Here’s some approximate measurements. Mine are redrilled after repair though so match up to Jon’s original ones if that concerns you! This door shell is the one I have to replace the previous reskinned door which has rotted mostly cause the place that did it (prior to my ownership) didn’t reinstate the drain holes…

I’d guess based on Kevin’s info that this means the block was overhauled, but the engine was not built up by Triumph/Leyland/Rover. So it was never stamped with a new engine number, but the block was somehow sold as a spare part.

Why do you want to fit the Spitfire gearbox? I think the Standard 8s had all alloy ones? So you’re adding a fair bit of weight if you drop in a cast iron Spitfire one. If Colin is correct (and he probably is!) then swapping the internals might be an option if there is something up with the original/existing one?

Great looking Herald! Welcome aboard. Lack of power when the load increases is making me think exhaust manifold leak. Worth a quick check with the ‘stick a bit of hose in your ear and use it like a stethoscope’ trick. I’d generally agree with the comments saying don’t start buying stuff just drive it first, but I would recommend changing all rubber fuel lines for genuine ethanol proof ones unless you can be certain this has already been done.

I’d agree, there’s even one on eBay right now for £30 that’s already been cleaned up, slap some paint on and you’ll be done! https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/285517415563?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=XSTcghsGTcO&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=en_MztWYTyu&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

Oh so that’s how the accelerator pedal was originally fitted. I had mine bolted on top of the carpet till recently and have been wondering how to put it back. And wondering if I should shell out and replace the non moulded carpets that I’ve never been happy with…

Ah, OK I misunderstood the plane you were wanting to move the door in. You should be able to loosen one hinge at a time and kind of walk the door up. If you’ve any wear at all in the hinge you need to set it a bit higher than you want to compensate for the drop. You shouldn’t have too much trouble by yourself, though it is one of those “simple” jobs that can take a whole day of fiddling!

There is adjustment in the hinge-to-door bolts as well as the hinge-to-bulkhead. Sounds like you are wanting to move the bottom of the door outboard a little bit? That should be do-able without shims.

I’ve just had to completely strip my Herald’s engine (complications with custom thrust washers…), which best guess is 20-30k miles post previous rebuild, most stuff is turning out to be pretty unworn thankfully, but my rockers and rocker shaft are all pretty knackered. So worth a check even if you think wear is unlikely.

5/16” x 1” and. 5/16” x 1 3/4” UNF https://www.canleyclassics.com/?catalogue=triumph-herald-13/60&diagram=triumph-herald-13/60-water-pump-assembly

See one post above I guess I must’ve hit send while you were still typing yourself!

Take a brass drift and hammer on one end of the woodruff key. They’re half moon shaped so that’ll push one end down and the other up.

I’d use a reducer. You don’t want a loose fuel pipe where you’re relying on squashing it together with a hose clamp, and you don’t want to force a smaller hose over a larger diameter pipe (it’ll be a struggle, and you then risk a split hose somewhere down the line).

I think I think Colin may be thinking Herald thoughts where the rad is mounted to the engine bay valances? Which I think is not the case for the Vitesse?

I spaced my rad back with some approx 2mm thick aluminium flat bar (that used to be rucksack reinforcement) on the Spitfire, then gave the front ear of the cap a few whacks with a hammer and scraped a bit of insulation off the underside of the bonnet. Got just enough clearance.

Just undone mine on the Herald’s engine with an 18” breaker bar and socket, with another approx 18” of steel tubing over the end (that just happened to be exactly the right size to go snugly over the handle of the breaker bar, having all this stuff lying around does come in eventually!) The engine is on a stand and I locked the back of the crankshaft with a similarly sized lever against the engine stand.