Josef

Looks fantastic Colin! Anyone know, did any of the Triumph range except for the non-estate Herald / Vitesse have a reserve tap?

Chassis rails repaired!

I’m pretty sure the U.K. standard cars didn’t have any extra fixings on the brake pipe going to the right wheel. Those look more like non factory fittings though. The three way unison should be held to the chassis with a normal nut and bolt. Your photo looks like a nut that’s been a bit abused rather than anything else! The bit of the chassis that it fits to is a U shaped bit of sheet metal, and you should be able to get a spanner underneath to hold the bolt head.

The three way union that that pipe runs to will unbolt from the chassis, that can make it easier to undo the brake pipes from it. Though that’ll involve removing the pipe from the front and the pipe to the other wheel…

Unfortunately the answer to your question is ‘none’… Right now you have a later Mk3 Spitfire (or TR4-6) windscreen frame. As others have mentioned you need the right capping, part 806189, https://www.canleyclassics.com/?catalogue=triumph-spitfire-mki/ii&diagram=triumph-spitfire-mki/ii-body-mouldings-tonneau-cover-details-and-hood-assembly is available. But do you have the soft top frame and the clips (number 8 in the link) that fit to the rear deck? The frame won’t be too hard to find second hand, in the U.K. at least, but the clips are hard to get. Fitting a later mk3 style folding hood is not impossible, but it would require a lot of work and modifying the body.

Bit daft, but this caught me out. There are wiper blades available that look right, but the attachment for the arm is larger resulting in enough play to make them useless.

The big things that can affect the speedo reading are the diff ratio, the pinion/worm ratio for the drive from the gearbox, and the TPM of the speedo (and the speedo being broken, but let’s leave that for now). You can figure out your diff ratio manually by jacking the rear and counting the prop shaft turns per wheel rotation. The TPM is given as a number below the fractional miles of the trip counter. I think 1152 is right for a 2L Vitesse but the same style speedo was used on the Spitfires, but with different internals. The gearbox would require the tunnel out and removing the pinion, so I’d check that last

So… I had to take the engine out in order to access the inside of the chassis rails.

“MoT exempt” 👀

Are you able to replicate your issue stationary and with the bonnet raised? That obviously will change the engine bay heat distribution so might invalidate your intended test.

I have been considering spraying myself and had assumed a good face mask was sufficient. The HSE disagrees it turns out. I am a former chemist, and as soon as I saw we’re talking about isocyanates, well, I’ve changed my mind about the diy approach! Could go cellulose I suppose but seems daft given half the car is already in 2k.

Many MoT places are not aware that the bearings on the small chassis cars are supposed to have play! I have had advisories on and off for years, but the bearings are totally fine and correctly adjusted…

You can get long grease zerks, I don’t know of a source but the greaseable ujs I have bought came with them.

I think this was due to an error in the law that made tax exemption roll on. Because tax exemption and the allowance for black plates were both tied to the car being a Historic Vehicle, the change to make tax exemption apply to anything over 40 inadvertently brought the number plate rules along with it. (Pretty sure, but not 100% certain so I’m happy to be corrected!)

Fingers crossed the little bits of veneer go back on OK. I do agree, I don’t think burr walnut suits a Herald. It’s a lovely looking wood, but I’ve never been a fan of sticking it on the dash of absolutely every car!

Yes, and disposing of the liquid the shim material comes packaged with is alright too

Colin linked to a copy of it further up.

Chassis side rail repair https://youtu.be/LXqHPD44uTY

My Herald has always had a temp reading of ‘in the middle’, unless sat at idle in hot weather, then it starts to creep up. The Spitfire is similar, though that does have a full width rad.

I still reckon you can use a similar technique to what’s described in the video I linked. Maybe the shape won’t be 100% perfect but you should be able to get close enough that you won’t need much in the way of filler. If you position and secure the repair panel in the right place to start with using something you’ll cut off later to bridge gaps in a few places.

It is a relatively common thing, and is possibly weldable depending on how bad the damage to the header rail is. That’s probably your best option as it might be possible to be able to do it with the hood in place. I did think the header rail was available as a repro panel, but I must be mistaken as I can’t find it on the usual suspects.

Mine are normally even. However I do have a bit of an extra gap at the moment. Probably cause the adjustment turnbuckle and / or bonnet support arm are currently not present. So it might just be you need some fettling of the adjustable bits.

Doug, the address on the club site reads “Berkshite” …

A temperature gauge would be relatively simple, you’d just need a sender and a gauge. It’s quite likely you already have a blanked off port for a temperature sender either on the top of your thermostat housing or on the water pump housing. Buying a sender specced for a Mk1/2 Spitfire would be easiest as it’s the same engine. Gauge won’t really matter so long as it’s a stabilised 10V one (the fuel gauge is stabilised on the 1200 right?) There’s no need for an expansion tank, they were designed without one, just need topping up fairly regularly. If you’re desperate to do so it’d require fairly significant work. Have you given the cooling system a good flush out? Using washing soda is often recommended. In clean condition the standard system is perfectly good for what it needs to do! I would first though get yourself an IR thermometer and measure the temperature at various points on a trip. It’s non invasive and easy, and will give you an idea if you really need to bother doing anything more immediately!

It is possible for the electronic tachos (RVC type) fitted to the Spitfire to kill the engine if they break (in effect they short out the coil). So disconnecting at the coil is a worthwhile test before you swap anything out.